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Thats neat cobb.

Maybe you could clear something up for me. When you guys in the US are takling miles per gallon I assume you are talking about miles per [US] gallon.

The way I see a US gallon is only about 83% of an Imperial (UK) gallon which would mean that when you say 66.6 mpg the UK equivalent would be 80.2 mpg! This seems like a huge number compared to the official figures (61ish mpg in the UK)

You must have some serious mods or else you are driving at 37mph down hill with a following wind!
 

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Thats neat cobb.


You must have some serious mods or else you are driving at 37mph down hill with a following wind!
He is talking about a US gallon. As far as the mods, check out some of Cobbs posts to see some of the extreme mods he has done to his Insight. Just check out his signature for an abbreviated list.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yeah, US. Its like 3.75 quarts vs 4 quarts or 128 ounces as many times I can put 10-11 gallons in the car when the low gas light comes on before the pump clicks off. It was common for gas stations to cheat the flow of the pumps.

If I went 37mph down hill following the wind I would have 150 on the display. Since my previous mods I just recently disconnected the power steering and since its under 90 degrees out winging it without the ac and either blower on or windows cracked an inch.

Here is a video of me going down i95 at 56mph on the cruse control just topping out at 69mpg.

YouTube - Getting 69 going 56
 

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Cobb,

How many miles per gallon, In your estimate, have you gained by disconnecting the power steering?
 

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1.03%. Great questions and I always wonder after the fact how is a good way to express it. Basically on my usual run as seen in that video, my best was 67mpg. I hit 69mpg, so 2mpg or 1.03%

At lower speeds, way more or 1.15%. So where I use to get 71mpg at 36mph I can now get 82 or so.

I find it lessens the neg or positive recal that takes place when under a load or when you least expect it and if you do it charges back up rather quickly.
 

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Cobb, I've seen where you have talked about disconnecting the steering, but when I look at my battery I'm still not absolutely certain which lug to disconnect. Do you have a picture or know where I can find what systems all of those wires go to?
 

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In the Gen 1, it's just a fuse labelled EPS(electronic power steering). I am pretty sure there is a fuse on the Gen 2 as well. For the Gen 1, it's a 40 amp fuse. Cobb can confirm how he did it. I have EPS off on mine, I never drive in the city, almost always on the highway and I am accostomed to steering while moving at least a slow speed to make it easy on the tires, this includes pulling into and out of parking spots. It feels normal to me, but then again the Gen 1 is a little lighter than the Gen 2 and I don't run stock tire pressures which helps.
 

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No photo yet. Ok, stand in front of the car. Remove the red top to the battery terminal. You will see 3-4 vertical nuts towards the drivers seat. Take the second one off going from the drivers side to the passenger side. YOu should see the corrosponding fuse os 40 amps. The fuse is made into the terminal, but you can unbolt the terminal and leave it off. Its a white wire on it.

Then when you get back in the car and start it the steering takes more effort and you get a beep and note to check power steering, then you can click the mid screen buttons and it does away.

Yeah, even short trips its easy to almost hit 70mpg.
 

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Thank You sir,

My problem was identifying the 40 amp fuse that you had mentioned in other posts. I have a 60 amp, a 20 amp, and an unknown rating fuse. Also, I was not absolutely sure if you were counting left to right or right to left in previous posts.

I did take the wire off of terminal 2 in my picture and that did the trick. I'll give it a good test tomorrow.

 

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Thats it. Interesting how they have the horn and emergency flashers hooked directly to the battery at the first lug with the 10 amp fuse. The positive terminal has the fuses made into it from what I can see and I used the info about the i1 for that inspiration. Ive driven cars without power steering and power steering that no longer worked. You got to time the turning of the wheel with movement of the car and when it comes to steering I typically hold the wheel at 9 and 3 vs just the 7 oclock position. Yeah, I use to steer with my hand on my left knee at the 7 oclock area. I got a 3 inch long wear patch on that part of the steering wheel.

From my deductions I am assuming the car can not account for the power used to charge the 12 volt battery and this is what leads to the hybrid system pooping out on you when you least expect it. Running the AC on max is even worse as you got 2 fans and a squirell cage blower sucking down power in addition to the electromagnet clutch on the compressor.

My next upgrade is going to be with the 12 volt battery. I am going to see if I can shoe horn a u1 or nf22 type that has a higher state of charge as it will top out at 14 volts, let it go down to 12.6, at 12.5 it recharges the battery again. I want to say gel cell or agm has a higher state of charge like 13 volts where as the tradtional lead acid is 12.5 volts. On top of that will be either a solar panel or a trickle charger or both for the 12 volt side.
 

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I took a few trips yesterday and 8 trips today of about 10 miles each. The steering seemed tighter than what I remember of cars without power steering. It felt more like when a power steering system loses fluid or a belt breaks. Easily tolerable if you know what you're expecting. I drove in some heavy traffic, parked in tight parking spaces, and backed into parking spaces.

I'm not sure what to think about the mileage numbers. I'm not seeing much, if any change. I know it's only been a couple of days and there's not much of a base line to work off of. I MIGHT be getting 2 or 3 mpg extra. Certainly not more than that.

Also, the warnings to check power steering are kind of a pain in the tail.

I guess I was expecting a few more mpg. It would take a solid 5mpg on a 10 mile trip for me to see the difference. I'll probably be weighing the pros and cons in the future to see if this is the price I want to pay for the results I get. It hasn't quite been the advantage that I had hoped for just yet.
 

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I was going 55. All these mods add up, 2 here, 4 there, 3 somewhere else, before you know it you got another 10. I may reconnect it this winter if we have a lot of snow and ice so I can easily whip the wheel around if needed. Otherwise you got to hit a button to see the mid, so whats another tap to dismiss the warning?
 

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I'm not really concerned, but an afterthought for others that might be considering this option...

What happens if you are in a wreck and the car gets towed somewhere and word gets out that the system is "deactivated". Not broken in the wreck, but intentionally tampered with. I wonder if that might bring in some liability issues.
 

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Absolutely something to think about. I recommend testing. So far my only problems is whipping around parking lots. I got to roll slower and roll as I turn the wheel. I havent had any problems on the highway or interstates.

Between this and no use of the ac I can keep up with traffic and still exceed 56mpg on average.
 
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