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What are my options for getting FAS at any speed? Not counting using the key....thanks

Oh, BTW, I have a 01 MT.
 

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Just curious, why do you (why does anyone) want FAS? The built in AS does ok for me. I do wish it kicked in at 25mph (or whatever is bottom of 5th gear) instead of 19mph, and it'd be nice if it stayed off until I put the stick in gear (ignoring if I release the brake pedal to coast), but otherwise I'm pretty happy with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Just curious, why do you (why does anyone) want FAS? The built in AS does ok for me. I do wish it kicked in at 25mph (or whatever is bottom of 5th gear) instead of 19mph, and it'd be nice if it stayed off until I put the stick in gear (ignoring if I release the brake pedal to coast), but otherwise I'm pretty happy with it.
I am more interested in using it on shallow hills at higher speeds like 50 mph.
 

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What are my options for getting FAS at any speed? Not counting using the key....thanks

Oh, BTW, I have a 01 MT.
There are a couple of things I can think of. You might be able to create some sort of ignition interrupt electrically, but you would be faced with the same problems that turning off the key causes, no autostart, and no brakes after an application or two.

Mike Dabrowski at 99mpg.com at one time sold a FAS circuit which could be spliced into the ECM wiring in the passenger footwell. His circuit functioned as you describe, simulating autostop at any speed. It basically cut the fuel injectors, and had connections to maintain brake boost and autostart. If he does not have that for sale, then perhaps the circuit diagram is available from him. He has generously provided some free drawings over the years.

I think this topic has been discussed here before, so you might be able to find some threads by using the google search line in the above search engine.

Later: Sorry, you would continue to have brakes, you just wouldn't have brake boost after a couple of applications.
 

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There are a couple of things I can think of. You might be able to create some sort of ignition interrupt electrically, but you would be faced with the same problems that turning off the key causes, no autostart, and no brakes after an application or two.

Mike Dabrowski at 99mpg.com at one time sold a FAS circuit which could be spliced into the ECM wiring in the passenger footwell. His circuit functioned as you describe, simulating autostop at any speed. It basically cut the fuel injectors, and had connections to maintain brake boost and autostart. If he does not have that for sale, then perhaps the circuit diagram is available from him. He has generously provided some free drawings over the years.

I think this topic has been discussed here before, so you might be able to find some threads by using the google search line in the above search engine.
My injector interrupt circuit basically initiates auto-stop. The only thing that it doesn't do is keep the oil and battery lights from coming. Even then, under certain conditions those will go out and the green AS light comes on when I drop to a low enough speed. Everything that will cause autostart still works with my setup; putting it in gear, brake vacuum drops too low, etc.
 

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My injector interrupt circuit basically initiates auto-stop. The only thing that it doesn't do is keep the oil and battery lights from coming. Even then, under certain conditions those will go out and the green AS light comes on when I drop to a low enough speed. Everything that will cause autostart still works with my setup; putting it in gear, brake vacuum drops too low, etc.
Is there a schematic or directions somewhere for this circuit?
 

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Is there a schematic or directions somewhere for this circuit?
There is probably a bit neater way to do it than the way I did it but, I went under the hood and found the wires that supply power to the injectors (NOT the grounds as those are what the ECU switches to control the air/fuel ratio); they all share a common power supply. I cut the power wires and basically put a normally closed relay in line with the power supply wires. I then took a jumper wire from the hot side of the wires and ran it to the power pin on the relay. I then ran a wire inside to a push-button switch then ran a a wire from the switch to ground. When I push the button, it opens the relay and the injectors lose power and the engine dies...as long as it's in neutral and the clutch pedal is pushed in. I have the Calpod switch for the clutch so I just flip that if I don't want to hold the pedal in. I can do this at any speed I want. There is one more thing I'd like to do and that is put a switch in to make the car think it's in neutral so I can bump-start as putting the car in gear to do the bump-start causes it to auto-start off the IMA.
 

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I kinda did what diamondlarry did but put a limit switch on the left side of the shifter between 1st and 2nd. So in nuetral between gears if I apply just a little more pressure to the left, the engine shuts off. Then when it shifts into 1st it starts right back up again.
 

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I kinda did what diamondlarry did but put a limit switch on the left side of the shifter between 1st and 2nd. So in nuetral between gears if I apply just a little more pressure to the left, the engine shuts off. Then when it shifts into 1st it starts right back up again.
This sounds interesting, but I don't fully understand. Where is the switch mounted? And, what is a limit switch?
 

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Maybe I should take a picture to clarify.

http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Limit_switch

I took a limit switch out of an old humidifier. The switch hooked up to the float that makes a lightbulb go on when the water is low.

I mounted it on the white plastic about 5 inches below the shift knob. When the metal shifter rod pushes up against the lever on the switch it turns the injectors off. Shifting from 1st to 2nd is so quick that there is no momentary kill. The shifter is spring loaded to center so I have to push it left and stay in neutral to activate the limit switch.
 

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Maybe I should take a picture to clarify.

Limit switch - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

I took a limit switch out of an old humidifier. The switch hooked up to the float that makes a lightbulb go on when the water is low.

I mounted it on the white plastic about 5 inches below the shift knob. When the metal shifter rod pushes up against the lever on the switch it turns the injectors off. Shifting from 1st to 2nd is so quick that there is no momentary kill. The shifter is spring loaded to center so I have to push it left and stay in neutral to activate the limit switch.
Thank you. That is a really neat mod. I took off the console cover and had a look and I think I can now see what you are doing.:)
 

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Yeah, I use it all the time. I charge my stock pack and my buddy pack up twice a day so regen is not that important to me. I just coast a lot.

One bad thing is that if my SOC reads no bars then the car will not auto start with the IMA motor and my traditional starter kinda has issues.

It is such a habit now to move the shift knob to the far left and the engine stops. I do it all the time to other cars I drive. Kinda like reaching for the clutch in an automatic.
 

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Hey, I am wanting to install a FAS, using the injector kill switch method, I would like to do it as simple as possible. My question is where is the location of the 3 wires where they merge to 1. I have been reading the service manual but I am getting a little confused. Thanks in advance.
 

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I still have some of the relay FAS boards.
The injector common is under the hood, so it is easier to break the three injecto lines near the ECM as I show.
Thanks Mike, I would love to get your fas board, but as of right now I am trying to get this done as cheap as possible.
 

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I still have some of the relay FAS boards.
This is a pretty slick board. I have one installed in one of my cars. It has the advantage that everything works just like a normal autostop. The circuit supports the normal "keep-alive" 12v charging and it allows the engine to automatically restart if brake boost is depleted. Installs in footwell right next to ECM. True you have to cut all three injector wires, but you don't have to snake anything through the firewall. It is a nice board, and Mike doesn't charge all that much for it:)
 

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Your purchase of the board from Mike will help fund his further research for our mutual benefit. The same philosophy I employ with my projects ;)
 

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Your purchase of the board from Mike will help fund his further research for our mutual benefit. The same philosophy I employ with my projects ;)
I completely agree! And I love to support mike and have purchased products from him in the past. Unfortunately the money just isnt there and I would like to do it now! But if something i changes Mikes is definitely my first choice!
 
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