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Last night I changed the oil and filter on my (new to me) 2000 Insight. I had 2.6 quarts of Pennzoil Platinum 0w-20 and a WIX filter ready to go. I also had a new Fumoto Valve ready to be installed. Finally, I had read in detail here about stripped threads on the magnesium oil pan.

My plan was to removed the old drain bolt and drain the oil. Remove the old filter and replace with a new filter. Then install the Fumoto valve carefully (being careful not to overtighten). Well the first thing I encountered was that the Acura dealership I bought the car from a few weeks ago over-torqued the drain bolt. I don't know how many foot pounds of torque were used to tighten the bolt, but I had to put a crazy amount of force into getting the bolt to loosen (and I've done many oil changes and have never seen anything like this).

After getting the oil drained and the filter replaced, I was ready to install the Fumoto Valve. I had read in other previous threads here that some people had removed the metal plate that sits between the oil pan and the valve while others had left it in place. I decided to leave it in place -- bad idea.

The "bolt" part of the Fumoto Valve is shorter than the original drain bolt. This, combined with the metal plate means that you only have about three threads on the valve that make contact with the threads on the pan. Forget about over-tightening! I tightened the valve 1/4 turn and I heard the threads snap. I could have beat the mechanic who previously tightened the drain bolt on so tight.

So I unscrewed the valve and sure enough, a little bit of metal shavings came with it. Again, having read in detail here about the threads, about installs of the Fumoto Valve, some people removing the metal plate, and finally the cost of getting the oil pan replaced/repaired, it didn't take me long to figure out what to do. I removed the metal plate. I knew that this would give me some more threads for tightening the valve. Working vary carefully and keeping my fingers crossed, I was able to tighten the valve down to a proper torque. Total crisis averted. Thank heavens! I put everything back together and poured in 2.6 quarts. Started the car and no leaks. And now I can simply use the fumoto valve from this point on.

Bottom line is this, even if you know that the threads can strip easily, know this -- it is still easier than you think --- especially if the previous mechanic torqued the drain bolt to something like 40 foot pounds.

Also, I would strongly advise that when installing a Fumoto Drain Valve, that you plan to remove the metal plate. You might be able to install the valve with the plate in between, but I wouldn't advise attempting it. I know if I had the opportunity to do things over last night, I would have removed the plate before installing the valve the first time.

-Bryan
 

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I decided to treat myself to the luxury of having someone else (Walmart) change the oil. LUCKILY, they refused--telling me that the original drain plug had been replaced and policy prohibited them from unscrewing it.
THAT then avoided my discovering later that they had overtightened or stripped it. (At the moment I am still trying to find it... and a Fumoto valve...)
 

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I decided to treat myself to the luxury of having someone else (Walmart) change the oil. LUCKILY, they refused--telling me that the original drain plug had been replaced and policy prohibited them from unscrewing it.
THAT then avoided my discovering later that they had overtightened or stripped it. (At the moment I am still trying to find it... and a Fumoto valve...)
Brave man to take it to wally world. I used to work in a shop a couple miles down the road from one and fixed their handiwork a few times. best one was the Acura that came in leaving a trail of oil. Walmart changed the oil but couldn't get the filter off. just crumpled it trying, causing a pinhole leak. They charged him and sent him on his way. He noticed the trail leading down his driveway and down the street when he got home, topped it off, and came over.
 

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Brave man to take it to wally world.
Less brave than clue-less... I hadn't ever heard of a "magnesium" oil pan, let alone knew I already owned one. Also would have lost big money betting that "magnesium" ranks near the top for thread strength... :^(

I managed the oil change, the biggest surprise of many of which was that the plug-replacement which the Walmart "techs" were not allowed to touch was the Genuine Fumoto Drain Valve! (It was complicated by the addition of an appropriately sized hose crimp ring placed diagonally around it to keep it from vibrating open.) My version is the one without the nozzle extension.

The second biggest surprise was how ridiculously high the car looked perched on my jack stands[1]. I parked the car uphill on a medium grade (the drain plug is on the back passenger side of the engine) and jacked the driver side higher than the passenger.

The third surprise was that the drain plug and oil filter are almost directly across from each other front-to-back and could drip into the same reasonable-size container, after the intial drains.

Mine was fitted with the aluminum under-carriage panel. Note: the 4 bolts across the rear of the panel need only be loosened because the panel slips under them. The front is held up with two oversized black plastic "push-in" fasteners. (Use a flat-blade screwdriver to prise out the center pins to loosen them for removal.)

For those who claim oil and filter change from above, my hats are off to you.

[1] Re: jacking. I used a floor jack on the center lift points after slotting a short piece of 2x4 to fit over it. Then I put the jack stands next to, not under, the front lifting points.
 

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I'm not so sure it was the previous mechanic tightening down the plug too much. I find that it is a lot tighter when it comes time to take it out than it was when I put it in. But anyway thanks for the info on the plate, I have a valve like that waiting for me to get some enthusiasm.
 
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