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I was looking the 18S modules I have received from JAG35. I realized that the orange power leads exit the opposite side of module on two of them. In other words, in relation to where the positive and negative are marked on the terminal caps. I'd guess and hope this doesn't matter, but thought I'd put it out here to be sure.
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Somehow I inserted the first image twice, edit function doesn't seem to allow me to delete one...

Fixed that for you.
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If someone local from San Jose, CA area wants to meet up for my 4th 18s, let me know.
 
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I was looking the 18S modules I have received from JAG35. I realized that the orange power leads exit the opposite side of module on two of them. In other words, in relation to where the positive and negative are marked on the terminal caps. I'd guess and hope this doesn't matter, but thought I'd put it out here to be sure.
Those orange caps are removable... can you measure the terminal voltages on each 18S module and verify that the caps are correct?
1) Place volt meter RED lead on terminal on the side with the wire harness.
2) Place volt meter BLK lead on opposite terminal.
3) Do you measure a positive or negative voltage?

...

If you have indeed discovered that there are two different types of 18S modules, then we can certainly reroute the cables to make it work... but that would be really annoying and almost certainly someone would end up shorting out high current leads while they were blindly following youtube instructions. Please let me know what you find, or if you need any additional help clarifying what you have.

Edit:
Here's a video showing how all my batteries look:
 

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Those orange caps are removable... can you measure the terminal voltages on each 18S module and verify that the caps are correct?
1) Place volt meter RED lead on terminal on the side with the wire harness.
2) Place volt meter BLK lead on opposite terminal.
3) Do you measure a positive or negative voltage?

...

If you have indeed discovered that there are two different types of 18S modules, then we can certainly reroute the cables to make it work... but that would be really annoying and almost certainly someone would end up shorting out high current leads while they were blindly following youtube instructions. Please let me know what you find, or if you need any additional help clarifying what you have.

Edit:
Here's a video showing how all my batteries look:

I have QTY4 18S from JAG35. All have the + terminal on the same side as the wire harness. Measured positive voltage with red lead on the side with wire harness (+).

91040
91041
91043
 

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I went out and checked again. I have quantity 4 modules that have the negative post located on BMS lead side.
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I have quantity 8 (!) (Yes, I did buy a total of 12- hey I have three G1's :) ) modules that have the positive terminal next to the BMS leads.
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As you noticed Mudder, the terminal caps are not interchangeable. In fact they hinge opposite directions too..
 
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I'm afraid that I'm in the same boat as @tervic I bought four 18S modules. Two of them have the lead on the positive side and two have the lead on the negative side.
 

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I picked up two 18s's the other day, so I'm in the need for a 12s. Anyone got a spare?
 

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Alright, so it's confirmed that we have two different types of 18S modules:
-18S modules with BMS connector on negative side. Let's call these "18S-" modules.
-18S modules with BMS connector on positive side. Let's call these "18S+" modules.

Annoying, but fear not, I'll come up with equivalent routing options for the general release. Honestly this is a good thing, because it will make the overall 4 AWG routed wire length shorter. My hand-wavy thought for 54S - which I am not actively working on right now - is that I'll come up with wire routing options for:
-QTY2 "18S+" modules and QTY1 "18S-" module
-QTY1 "18S+" module and QTY1 "18S+" modules

This of course assumes there are an equal number of each module type. More details to follow. I'm working with the beta crew to verify which modules we have... hopefully we all have the same types, as I've already finished the leads and don't want to have to make more right now.
 

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OK, for those that have "18S+" modules, can you please verify the BMS pinout is as follows:
91092
 

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I think I have the 18S+. Sadly I'm at work for another 6 hours though. If someone doesn't beat me to it, I'll take pictures and post them here.
 

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Mine are still on the way. Happy to pull pics and voltages when they get here.
 

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I took a few pictures of the connector. I don’t know why I have duplicate pictures. All of the photos are of the same 18S+ connector.
91100
91101
91102
Circuit component Electronic instrument Passive circuit component Office equipment Electrical wiring
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Boy those connectors are small! I had to use 2 needles to get the voltage. And yes my 4 modules are all "18S+"

I think I have my probes at C1- and C1+ (at the bottom big connectors). Voltage here is 3.5v.

@mudder, have I identified C1- and C1+ correctly? If so I will post the voltages I find soon, and will also try to trace each pin back to the particular cell.

91103


91104


George
 

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I just tested my two 18S+ packs. The pinout on the connector matches what you've shown in your diagram, mudder.

To anybody else who wants to probe this connector, here's how.
But first, BE CAREFUL!
If you short even one cell in a battery like this, you will have exploded test leads and melted metal in your face before you can even react. In addition, the overall pack voltage is enough to be dangerous. If you have sweaty fingers and you touch the output terminals you will definitely feel it (ask me how I know). A healthy fear of batteries like these is mandatory for safety.

I recommend using some of these dupont-style cables, they're a very common maker item and the pins fit perfectly into the connector pins. Otherwise some component lead clippings should do. Connect them with alligator clips to your multimeter leads and insulate all bare connections with tape.

91106


Put the ground lead in the C1- pin, and probe each other pin in sequence, C1+, C2, C3, etc.
You should see 1 cell voltage (~3.6V) across C1-/C1+, then the voltage should go up by one cell voltage each pin you go up. So 3.6V, 7.2V, 10.8V, etc. Up to about 64-65V between C1- and C18.

91107
 

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91108

I bought these ^^^^^^ for jobs like this
and these vvvvvv
91109
 
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