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Here are the mappings of each pin of the connector to each cell in one of my "18S+" module. Traced with a voltmeter set to test for continuity.

I wish I had read Mario's and Sean's warnings first though. Luckily my hands were not sweaty. But I'll wear goggles and gloves from now on.

91110
 

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+2 on the safety, a shipmate burned a hole clear through his hand with testing (incorrectly). I gave a hand to a boat prop from a momentary lapse of judgement :(
 

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+2 on the safety, a shipmate burned a hole clear through his hand with testing (incorrectly). I gave a hand to a boat prop from a momentary lapse of judgement :(
Are those a bunch of Volvos I see in your signature? Or Mercedes? I can't tell because they used similar naming schemes haha.
 

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@Mario thanks for your excellent suggestion of using dupont-style cables.

I wonder if the ends of these could be coaxed out of their plastic enclosures, then made to fit into the 18S' connector? Then the tedious process of crimping might be avoided.

91111
 

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Are those a bunch of Volvos I see in your signature? Or Mercedes? I can't tell because they used similar naming schemes haha.
heh yeh, other than the MB5 which is a Honda, those are old Mercedes. Have a couple more cars,6 jetskis and a couple of boats, Packrat 'r' us.
 

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Thanks everyone for confirming the BMS connector pinouts are identical. Prior to release I'll figure out how to route the packs together with these "18S+" modules.

Adding another valid measurement method: I recommend purchasing retractable needle-tipped DMM leads... I use them often to probe various fine-pitched ICs.
 

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@Mario thanks for your excellent suggestion of using dupont-style cables.

I wonder if the ends of these could be coaxed out of their plastic enclosures, then made to fit into the 18S' connector? Then the tedious process of crimping might be avoided.

View attachment 91111
Unfortunately this won't work... you can certainly remove the tips from those wires (by slightly pulling up on the plastic tab just behind the silver square... but they won't insert into the BMS connector, as it uses a different detent.
 

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Do these batteries create a lot less heat than NiMH? I am having heat management issues a lot in the summer even with an upgraded fan and it set to always run high. They get hot extremely easy to where they really limit regen and assist and take several miles of not using them to get low enough to output decent amperage. I'll be crusing and they're at like 114 from hardly being used.
 

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Discussion Starter · #251 ·
Have you experienced the centrifugal fan running at a crazy speed on regen, then shutting off completely on autostop? I used to get that when commuting from north end of Scottsdale to south end of Chandler, but no longer make that trip. I'm planning on using the "Boost device" to limit regen this time of year, then grid charge every day at 4AM. Also have a second set of batteries in case this heat trashes the first set.
 

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Do these batteries create a lot less heat than NiMH? I am having heat management issues a lot in the summer even with an upgraded fan and it set to always run high. They get hot extremely easy to where they really limit regen and assist and take several miles of not using them to get low enough to output decent amperage. I'll be crusing and they're at like 114 from hardly being used.
Heat in the IMA battery comes from four primary sources:
1: PDU (left side of enclosure), which has an external forced air cooling system, but Honda's MCM control strategy hardly uses is.

2: Heat from the cabin, primarily when parked in the sun. The rear 'greenhouse' glass doesn't help. I have a permanently installed rear sunshield that does wonders in the Texas sun.

3: Heat from the road and/or rear bearing friction, which rises up into the IMA bay. If you've ever felt the bottom aluminum panel in the IMA bay after driving for a couple hours, you're feeling this heat.

4: Heat from the battery's internal resistance (ESR). As your NiMH pack gets older, this becomes the predominant heat source.

...

There are things you can do to substantially reduce items 1/2/3, but ultimately they're external factors that pale in comparison to the heat generated internally within a failing NiMH pack. It's not unheard of for a non-CEL pack to self-consume three or four kW under moderate assist. That's energy directly turned into heat, from within the cells themselves. As a double-punch, the worst cells are hit the hardest (i.e. they have higher ESR, and so they heat up more than their peers).

...

Since item 4 is the predominant heat source, it's good to know that these lithium modules have extremely low ESR. It's an apples-to-oranges comparison, since I'm comparing an old busted NiMH pack to a brand new lithium one, but I'm going to anyways:

Under heavy assist, the lithium pack voltage drops maybe 4 volts. That's ~0.5 kW in lithium, compared to 4.0 kW with old busted NiMH.

So long story short, this (unfair) comparison shows that a brand new lithium pack generates eight times less internal heat under load.
 

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Have you experienced the centrifugal fan running at a crazy speed on regen, then shutting off completely on autostop? I used to get that when commuting from north end of Scottsdale to south end of Chandler, but no longer make that trip. I'm planning on using the "Boost device" to limit regen this time of year, then grid charge every day at 4AM. Also have a second set of batteries in case this heat trashes the first set.
Yes, Honda oddly chose rider comfort (i.e. audible noise) over pack temperature. The OEM autostop behavior I've observed:
-PDU fan will ALWAYS turn off.
-battery fan will never run in HIGH.
-battery fan will run on low speed when the battery is stupidly hot.

FYI: LiBCM has its own fans, and can run them whenever it wants (even when the car is off).
 

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I have my c&c telling fans to run full constantly. I drop roughly 30 volts on full assist with 40% hack and my pack is 2 months old 20v instantaneously and drops slowly if I keep it held. If lithium only drops 4 volts we should see a massive heat reduction even compared to a brand new bumblebee since that's 5x minimum.
 

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It looks like JAG35 is now sold out of G3 batteries.
 
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