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New to the site – this has probably been answered...but, Can anyone help with where to connect a grid charger to the Battery in the 2nd generation (2010 Insight)?. Photos would help a lot.
 

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Do you know much about electronics? Do you have a grid charger?

Me, I connect mines through the cables for my PHEV kit. It has 2 leads that connect to 2 of the 4 10mm bolts next to the braker. 2 are positive, 2 are negative. They are live with the key on, but since its over 100 volts dc you should give it the up most respect.

When balacning I use a beach key in the ignition with a 12 volt charger on the starter battery so the cooling system can keep the ima battery comfortable.

One of the experts was going to make a harness to power the blower, but thats another story.





 

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I think Im the only one who has connected one to a gen 2, but Im not that smart in regards to electronics and such. I did it as preventative maintenance as I own my car early on vs lease or plan on making payments for a few years then trading for another vehicle down the road.

For the first batch of 2nd gens you need to remove all the crap in your trunk. Most of the trim pieces around the ima battery pops out. You need to unscrew the large wing nut holding the spare tire. The spare tire holder comes out with a few 12 mm bolts. You need to pop off some trim pieces around it to access the bolts.

The metal cover comes off with a few torex screws. You also need to remove the 10 mm bolts around the access panel for the braker switch on the right side. Flip the switch off. At the rear bottom is a black plug that is like a big ribit you need to pry out. Carefully remove the metal shield as it can cut you.

Now you got access to the outside of the ima battery box and it should look like one of the 2 photos I posted. Double test all your connections and be careful as its around 100 volts dc.

2 of the 10 mm nuts or bolts by the braker are positive 2 are negative. I dont recall which are which, that will require testing with a vom set to dc voltage in the 100 volt range. The battery pack is engaged with the key on and the braker on.

Once you tested your connection, got it connected, carefully route the wires out and reinstall everything. My grid charger is set to a no load voltage of 134. It can take up to 36 hours for the voltage to stabilize and thats around 120-122 volts depending on temperature. I use a beach key so the car cant be started to power it up and use a ten amp battery charger on the starter battery to keep things cool. The blower speed varies, but is usually blowing a constant speed after a few hours into it.

Hope that helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Cobb,

You are not going to be the only one to grid charge a Gen 2 for long. The two 10mm closest to the rear are positive. See photo of my preliminary connection. Note the fuse as close as possible to the bat connection. Once I get it all working I will permanently wire it up. My goal is to make this removable (without a trace) for oblivious reasons.
Thanks again for your help

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You dont have to remove it if its a private sale. :D You may infact be able to change a premium if its a high mileage vehicle. Now Ive seen it take me up to 36 hours to get the voltage to stabilize meaning all cells are balanced. Ive also seen it required every 4 months if you are anal about your cells being balanced. Just doing it to increase your mpg wears off after 7 miles or so.
 

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Cobb,

Yes that is my plan as well. I am only going to balance the cell once evey 4 months or so. I was planning on balancing at 0.75 amps. You trickel until you reach 120 - 122 volts, At what rate (current) do you use to balance and do you measure battery voltage while charging or just floating (no charge)?

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.250 ma, under load, wait til voltage stablizes for an hour as it can go up and down during the balance process. Ive seen it go up to 130 volts and low as 95. 90% SOC is like 113 volts.
 

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I've been looking for this for days!

I just wanted to say THANK YOU Cobb & CraigM for posting these photos. You guys made my day!

I have a Honda Jazz (aka. Fit) Hybrid 2011. I've spent hours googling & reading and there's practically zero DIY material on the Jazz/Fit Hybrid in the web.

What I wanted to find out was a way to hook up a grid charger to the Jazz. I knew that the nominal battery voltage in Jazz was the same as in the Insight 2, but these photos confirm that at least on the outside it's an identical battery pack.

CraigM, did you come up with a way of hooking up the charger without a trace yet? :) I still have a year of IMA warranty left.
 

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mixu-, what country are you from and what language do you speak? Maybe type honda insight grid charger in your language and post it in a post to this thread so its easier for others to find?

I try to search Japanse sites, but I find the best to use is ze2. Insight in Japanese is contracted to in-site. In English site means like a place, work area, building. Sight means like what you see with your eye.

The modifications is easily reversible. Are you having problems with your car? We notice a bad or weak starter battery 12 volts will cause ima performance issues. Have you checked your starter battery?
 

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I'm from Finland, so no joy in searching with my language. There are probably around 100 of these Hybrids in the country and I'm pretty sure I will soon have the only one with a grid charger installed ;)

I have been a bit disappointed in the IMA capacity and I'm not getting the mileage the car is supposed to be capable of (around 10% worse than specified). And that's driving below the speed limit on highway, and utilizing many hypermiling techniques. I see quite a lot of parasitic charging.

Now that you mention it, the 12V battery "inspection window" does indicate the battery "needs charging". The voltage doesn't seem too bad (12,6V) and I have a battery load test report that says it was at 75% health 7 months ago. So I figured it would be fine since it's rarely used for starting anyway. It's a 4 year old battery so it might be worth replacing.
 

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When balacning I use a beach key in the ignition with a 12 volt charger on the starter battery so the cooling system can keep the ima battery comfortable.
If I use a 'normal' key in a closed garage with IGN ON will this work too? Can I avoid putting 12V to the IMA battery compartment fan? Two wires (+/-) from the charger to the battery will only be required.
 

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I cant advise on Jeffs system as I had no input or even seen the product.

Having a few PMs from people who found their grid charging insight full of white smoke I decided to let the car manage the IMA to be a safe bet. Since I do not have a garage I use a lock out of beach key to not allow the car to be driven and a traditional 12 volt charger on the 12 volt battery to keep things powered up while its on.

I would also crack the windows and do this on a 70 degree day and use another key to lock the doors.
 

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I cant advise on Jeffs system as I had no input or even seen the product.

Having a few PMs from people who found their grid charging insight full of white smoke I decided to let the car manage the IMA to be a safe bet. Since I do not have a garage I use a lock out of beach key to not allow the car to be driven and a traditional 12 volt charger on the 12 volt battery to keep things powered up while its on.

I would also crack the windows and do this on a 70 degree day and use another key to lock the doors.
White smoke? Yikes! Was that one of ours? I have not heard reports of this from any of my customers.
 

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This was back in the beginning of grid charging. You had everyone and their brother who had no electrical experience making those from Mike's and other designs. Those who said cooling was optional and those building multi amp output chargers for a fast charge, etc.

I had negative recals like is mentioned as a symptom of a failing ima battery so I got a charger back then and used it. In retrospect my ima problems were from heavy use of the ac and radio. It seems the gen 2 is unable to monitor or account for that draw from the ima battery for the dc to dc converter and the charge drops faster than it can register in real time. :confused:
 

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My grid charger is set to a no load voltage of 134. It can take up to 36 hours for the voltage to stabilize and thats around 120-122 volts depending on temperature.
Does the I2 battery behave differently than the one of an I1? I don't recall any voltage above 172 Volts in the I1. I'm going to modify my homemade and existing gridcharger and was about to set the voltage to 122-124 Volts but you've mentioned that you've seen voltages up to 130 Volts on the I2. :confused:
 

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This was back in the beginning of grid charging. You had everyone and their brother who had no electrical experience making those from Mike's and other designs. Those who said cooling was optional and those building multi amp output chargers for a fast charge, etc.

I had negative recals like is mentioned as a symptom of a failing ima battery so I got a charger back then and used it. In retrospect my ima problems were from heavy use of the ac and radio. It seems the gen 2 is unable to monitor or account for that draw from the ima battery for the dc to dc converter and the charge drops faster than it can register in real time. :confused:
I seem to get zero recals these days. I wonder if the software updates may have improved this sort of thing?
 

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This was back in the beginning of grid charging. You had everyone and their brother who had no electrical experience making those from Mike's and other designs. Those who said cooling was optional and those building multi amp output chargers for a fast charge, etc.
Ah, I see. Well white smoke is never a good thing, but glad to hear it's not one of our units contributing to it.

Does the I2 battery behave differently than the one of an I1? I don't recall any voltage above 172 Volts in the I1. I'm going to modify my homemade and existing gridcharger and was about to set the voltage to 122-124 Volts but you've mentioned that you've seen voltages up to 130 Volts on the I2. :confused:
The NiMh battery sticks are the same, so other than the difference in voltage due to battery pack size, the charge/discharge characteristics are the same. We configure the Prolong Grid Chargers to an unloaded output of 126 Volts.
 

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Well, back in the day when this was BREAKING NEWS the idea was 2 fold. Set the unloaded voltage to some arbitrary figure, then test the amp under the load of a light bulb to .350. For the gen 2 with 84 cells that was figured to be 134 volts with no load on the output of a properly built meanwell grid charger. :)

Full voltage is 1.5 volts a cell. You will see a swing over and under as cells get topped off and other cells are brought up. So for the first 3-4 hours you see a steady climb. Then it starts to go up and down like a yo-yo.

This is why you should check the voltage every 15 minutes for variations to figure when its "done" vs balancing. It takes like 3-4 hours to fully charge the pack assuming its in excellent health. If its in poor health you still reach the same area, but it has less capacity.

I find mines terminates around 121 122 volts in 36 hours.
 

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So Jeff, do you subscribe to discharging and recharging the newer batteries in the gen 2, crz and HCH that is not lithium? In general as PM or only after an IMA lamp? I believe the gen 2 will give you a "capacity" reading with the HDS and clones. Any reference to that?

Ive worked with lead acid all my life, so Im comfortable with a float like charge, but not killing a battery then recharging.

What do you say?
 
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