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Since these are being bolted on tightly, the grease will be squeezed out wherever the mating parts want to touch, and you'll still get good contact. With grease filling any voids and creases, you won't get water & salt intrusion which will later lead to corrosion. It's a good idea to grease it all.
Will the grease not get in the way of the electrical flow?
 

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2001 5S "Turbo"
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Nope it will make the electric flow faster, AKA "Greased Lightening".
 

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2001 5S "Turbo"
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11,602 Posts
That grounds the power steering unit to the engine. Not a big deal to overlook.
From the bottom is the easiest IIRC.
 

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Just finished changing my ground cables. Early JDM (so RHD) CVT. I couldn't find any reference to original lengths so thought it might be useful to post here. Battery cable seemed in good shape, but I replaced the other three with off the shelf nominal 9" ones from UK chain Halfords. These are actually just over 10" between eyelet centres (26 cm) and seem pretty good quality with sleeving and ends sealed with heatshrink. I don't think they are braided, but they seem pretty flexible.

The originals measured (again between centres): G2-T3 - 18 cm; G3-T4 - 23 cm; and G4-T5 - 16cm. Easy enough to route so the extra length didn't cause a problem. Replacement for G4-T5 (power steering) is clearly overkill, but I preferred to use something off the shelf. Previous owner had added a couple of extra bare braided ones, one in parallel with the power steering one and another from G2 all the way up to the battery carrier frame. I couldn't see any need for these, so removed them both.

Pretty straightforward job to do all from above. I had to lift the coolant expansion bottle off its bracket and unclip the piece of engine air inlet trunking to do G3-T4. I put a dab of Duralac on each fastener to help guard against galvanic corrosion. This is commonly used in the aerospace and marine industry (chandlers often stock it) where dissimilar metals are joined, but my previous experience has been with its use in various places on Lotus cars (and which also tend to have problems with their engine to chassis ground connections).

I can see there are some doubts expressed above about applying oils/greases (that are naturally good insulators) to electrical connections. This has been standard practice in the auto industry for many years, whether it is grease on battery terminals* or contact lubricant on connectors and lamp holders. The reason it works is that the contact surfaces aren't perfectly flat and the high spots (Asperities) push their way through the lubricant, letting metal to metal contacts form, but with the lubricant filling the gaps.

*some still recommend Vaseline for this, but that dates back to the days of bitumen being used in lead acid batteries, which normal greases would soften, so is no longer necessary unless you run a vintage/veteran vehicle with genuine period battery


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If I wanted to make my own replacement ground cables, can I use standard battery cable sold by the foot? What size gauge and what size lugs?
 

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The key to a long term replacement cable is to use a high strand count wire. I recommend Royal Excelene welding cable. Pretty much any cable will work for a few years... I've yet to have an Excelene cable break.

If you want to go all out, heat shrink each end to reduce stress concentration onto the uninsulated copper near each connector.
 

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The originals are stranded copper and tend to break from vibration. These are braided and flex much easier.
 

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Don't know. The holes may be too big or the cable not flexible enough. For $5 I know these fit and are original Honda parts, not some Chinese universal piece.
 

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I replaced all 4 ground cables. Car runs fantastic.

For the engine/transmission, I used the civic braided lines. In case anyone is wondering, the civic braided lines are 11" from center eye to center eye. I had to mount the cables "upside down" for them to work but they ended up fitting great. What I mean by this is there are little tabs on the terminals that imply the cable should be mounted one side down and in a certain orientation, but that orientation will not work on the insight as these were made for the civic. But by flipping the cables upside down the little tabs on the terminals were out of the way of the mountain surface and the cables could then be oriented any way you choose. I just oriented them in the way that made the most sense to me. They seem like a high quality cable that will last a very long time.

For the negative battery cable and EPS ground, I had custom cables made from batterycablesusa. I went with their "Extreme copper battery cable" in 6 gauge, 7" long for both, with an M6 terminal on both ends for the EPS cable and an M6 terminal on one end and a top post negative terminal on the other end for the negative battery cable. I am very happy with the cables they sent me. They are well built. The heat shrink tubing on the ends even has a glue inside of it that really seals the copper cables from anything getting in to corrode. Also, since the negative battery cable and the EPS cable don't have to flex with the movement of the car, I expect these cables will outlast the car. The factory EPS cable is a spindly little thing...a 6 gauge replacement cable was overkill. Definitely go with their 8 gauge to save a tiny bit on costs.
 

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Civic ground cables.


The ground cables I bought from batterycablesusa and the civic ground cables that I wrapped in some pvc tubing I had to give them extra protection.
 
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