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My hatchback no longer stays open with temps drop into the 40s. I've seen a few other posts about obtaining replacement ARM/struts. If I decide to replace mine myself is there any tricks or instructions for doing the replacement? Thanks in advance for any help.
 

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2001 5S "Turbo"
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Simple to do. Prop the hatch fully open with a stick.
 

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I think this is what I used, and most people use, for replacements:


They're not the greatest, they lift too strong and fast at the end of the stroke, but they seem to last. I've had mine for like 6+ years and they still work... Installing is easy, straight forward, no tricks needed.
 

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2000 Honda Insight
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I got the really cheap ones from RockAuto. They're strong enough that you barely need 2 of them!
 
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Current Rock Auto pricing, for history:

ULTRA-POWER (economy) $7.62
STRONGARM (standard) $21.79

Note that Rock Auto does not list quantities, so the Strongarm could actually be more expensive than Amazon if 2 are required.
 

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^ It looks like it's $34 for 1 at Amazon and $22 for 1 at RockAuto. Looks like you can/have to select quantity in the little drop down box, at both websites, where default is 1.
 

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Verdict on Ultra Power lift cylinders: would buy again.

Note that I had to clean up the lower mount bracket holes from minor manufacturing imperfections, but other than that they were super easy to install. They are much stronger than OEM.

 

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Pretty straight forward. install. 14mm and 12mm needed to remove the OE struts (13mm needed for the aftermarket ball end). The only tricky part if you're not familiar is the retaining clip on the new part (ball end). Just remove it before install to see how it is installed on the ball end. My OE ones worked but were leaking. These worked great with no modifications. Pay attention to the offsets on the struts when connecting to the body end.
 

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@Steady How are your Monroe 900087 hatch struts working, 15 months later? Also, I'd be very interested to know if yours are doing the same thing that the Strongarm struts are doing: others seem to complain that the Strongarm struts speed up as the reaches the top to the point that the hatch apparently bounces. If the Monroes don't do that, I may go with the Monroes. Finally, did the plastic moulding cap fit back on?

Thanks for your input!
 
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I've installed the Strong Arms on a 2000. Seemed fine. Now I am faced with a 2004 with weak arms. Ultrapower is a tempting alternative. The plastoc bolt covers seem to get lost and fall off once removed. Anyway to get replacement caps for bolt cover you showed ?
 

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@Steady How are your Monroe 900087 hatch struts working, 15 months later? Also, I'd be very interested to know if yours are doing the same thing that the Strongarm struts are doing: others seem to complain that the Strongarm struts speed up as the reaches the top to the point that the hatch apparently bounces. If the Monroes don't do that, I may go with the Monroes. Finally, did the plastic moulding cap fit back on?

Thanks for your input!
The hatch struts are still working.
I never had the hatch speed up/ bounce issue.
The caps were reinstalled.
 

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^ Interesting. If that's the case then the Monroes would be worth a shot. I recall writing to Strongarm way back when, asking them about the acceleration at the end of the stroke. I pointed out that I bought some Strongarms for my Previa van and they didn't do that. They said something to the affect of, 'it's the difference in the orientation Insight vs. Previa, the Previa hatch struts are upside down all the time whereas the Insight's are sideways', something to do with how the fluid in the struts pools when they're 'upside down' (=good) vs. sideways and right-side-up (=not-so-good).

But, apparently Monroe might've figured it out...
 
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