I got two used Insight sticks!!! Yeah! Thank you Peter!
I am going to take my time and do a thorough analysis and reconditioning of the sticks. I will experiment and validate previously learned lessons.
I will do IR and SD testing and document the performance of each cell. Before and after reconditioning.
I will use one stick to detach and weld back-on a cell. And test the functioning again to make sure the new connection is reliable. I will take it to welding professionals to do that and also to hear what they have to say about welding batteries.
And then... it will be time for CELL REPLACEMENT! Very exciting stuff.
Until then... I am charging my plug-in hybrid! haha
I dropped the car off at the dealer this morning for maintenance.
I asked him to print out the IMA data for me and he said that Honda does not allow them to give this info to customers! WTF!!??
So he hooked up the HDT and I took pics of the screen.
Anyway, total voltage 185V.
Modules ranging between 16,7 and 16,9V.
SOC was 74%. While the car showed full SOC.
But the usable capacity is 21%!
I noticed some partial recals lately. Just dropping 2 bars or so. Not full recals. This explains it.
Time for a new reconditioning and cell replacement.
Btw, cell 1.12 was charged during this reading.
If I had it, I could monitor how much the tap voltages drop under load and it would give me a much better picture of my IMA performance.
Because this usable capacity number is definitely not the real usable capacity. If I reset the computer I am sure it will show higher.
I'll make you a beta tester and send you one foc with a pic programmer in due course.
However it's on loan!!! We can negotiate a price later.
Be aware an OBDIIC&C is normally around $300.
You must be able/competent to upgrade the firmware as required..
Experimentation with cell replacement has started!
Note: Working with metal tools and naked batteries is damn dangerous. I can confirm that!
Edit: With some practice, I am able to separate the cells quite neatly. So the grinded welds leave quite clean cuts. I tried soldering a cell, but that was not successful yet. I can't get the solder to stick to the metal. I guess I have to find the right soldering temperature. Also, the cells are very conductive and dissipate the heat of the soldering iron very quickly. Next attempt in a couple of days. I don't have much time for hobbies as I am very busy with work.
So, I after some practice I was able to achieve a decent soldering of a cell.
The iron temperature must be around 400 C for the solder to melt properly, quickly and bond to the metal.
The surface area and thickness of the solder is about double compared to the welds surface area. I put a lot of solder and then grinded it flat.
I can tell you, this is a strong connection. Still, I can apply a 2K structural adhesive on the still open edges, and then the structural bonding will be much superior to the spot welds.
Now the question is... how do I test the electrical conductivity of the connection?
I can not measure such a low resistance and I can not put a 100A load to measure the temperature. Logically, the resistance of the connection is now lower than the spot welds, and thus the temperature at 100A will be lower as well.
Unfortunately, I can't see Drive-stored files from my work computer.
However, the casings are likely a 400 series stainless steel, which doesn't have fantastic conductivity compared to things like copper. If you've doubled the surface area of the interface, you are likely fine.
Solder composition is typically a mix of Tin and Lead - both are comparable to the resistance of carbon steel (Tin is better, Lead is worse). Double the surface area, and you have a lower resistance than the original connection. It's likely in micro-Ohms.
So, after a bunch of words as I work through it in my head...