Honda Insight Forum banner

1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I live in central Arkansas (Conway: 22 miles outside of Little Rock) and work in Morrilton (20 miles west of Conway/40 miles from LR). I need an Insight/hybrid mechanic. I've taken my 2000 MT (156K, 56.6 LT MPG) to the local Honda dealer only to be disappointed/frustrated (I knew more about the car than they did and I don't know that much about it). If you know of a good, reputable mechanic/repair shop in central AR your advice/recommendations are greatly appreciated.

I am getting code P1444 (I installed a Grid Charger 3 months ago), and dash/warning lights (IMA, engine, mntc required) and my fan on the IMA isn't working ("tries" to run but won't spin).

The battery charges & discharges properly - as far as I can tell - and I still average w 65+MPG w minimal effort and 75+MPG hypermiling.

I'm new to the forum (this is my first post), I've only owned the car for two years, and most importantly - I'm not a mechanic - so your input is greatly appreciated.

Thanks - Andy Patterson - Conway AR
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,605 Posts
I am getting code P1444 (I installed a Grid Charger 3 months ago), and dash/warning lights (IMA, engine, mntc required) and my fan on the IMA isn't working ("tries" to run but won't spin).
The P1444 code is for "high voltage short circuit." It is my guess that something in your grid charger or wiring went wrong. Remove the grid charger positive wire and see if you can reset the codes by one of the several methods folks recommend.

Fans sometimes freeze up. If it doesn't rotate easily with the flick of a finger, then it is frozen. You can advertize "want to buy" in the buy/sell section. Someone may have one. The fan is rather expensive from Honda, so you may want to look around. If you search on "IMA cooling fan" you will find several threads on the subject. Some have recommended replacing the fan with on having higher flow rate, but I don't at moment remember the substitute. You will have to use the google line under the search button above.

In your climate, try to minimize the amount of assist and regeneration until you get it fixed. I'd probably recommend not driving the car if you have alternative transportation. Battery heat is a killer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thank you! I'll remove the grid charge + & reset. The fan won't spin, even if I "help it" so I'll look into a replacement.
My daily commute is 18.6 miles - w A/C & the IMA cover removed (battery is exposed) should I still park until it's fixed - n your opinion?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,605 Posts
Thank you! I'll remove the grid charge + & reset. The fan won't spin, even if I "help it" so I'll look into a replacement.
My daily commute is 18.6 miles - w A/C & the IMA cover removed (battery is exposed) should I still park until it's fixed - n your opinion?
Then, you will have to replace the fan. Put in an add ASAP in the buy/cell section and check on eBay.

Should you park it? It's a gamble with a very expensive battery. If I lived in your local - I grew up in MS across the river so I know the weather - I'd park it until you get the cooling working. The innards of the IMA battery do not cool well unless there is air flow from the fan. Since it is tightly packed and closed off, there is very little "natural" air flow to the deeply buried battery cells.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
1,622 Posts
The only time I've seen a 1444 is when the car was started with the grid charger still connected to the car, not actually plugged in to the wall, only the car.

Scott
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,751 Posts
The only time I've seen a 1444 is when the car was started with the grid charger still connected to the car, not actually plugged in to the wall, only the car.

Scott
+1 I did this a couple times back when I first got my grid charger. Maybe the harness is grounding on something?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I didn't realize I was supposed to unplug the "pigtail" on the grid charge from the battery while in use. I'll disconnect, reset & see what happens on my drive home this evening. Thank you - this forum is great! I can't believe I waited so long to use it. Andy
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,605 Posts
The only time I've seen a 1444 is when the car was started with the grid charger still connected to the car, not actually plugged in to the wall, only the car.

Scott
Well that is a new one. I have never done that, so never seen that behavior.

But, if you look carefully at the description of the code, a short in the charger wiring would certainly set off the code.

Interesting.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,605 Posts
I didn't realize I was supposed to unplug the "pigtail" on the grid charge from the battery while in use. I'll disconnect, reset & see what happens on my drive home this evening. Thank you - this forum is great! I can't believe I waited so long to use it. Andy
I don't know how your charger is configured. If the charger has a harness or "pigtail" which remains connected, with a charger which can be unplugged, then yes, the harness could be shorted somehow. But see klr3cyl note above, which could also be the key. Interested in seeing your results.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
1,622 Posts
Just make sure the charger is not plugged into the car when starting the car.

Scott
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
I took it the local Honda dealer this morning & within 2 hours they've called & are telling me I need (at a minimum) the main PCM & a new battery: $800 + $4800 = $5600 total.
My new IMA fan (thanks to Nick Stueve) is working great - in fact I averaged 81 MPG yesterday on my commute (approx. 40 miles round trip).
Any ideas/suggestions?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,742 Posts
I took it the local Honda dealer this morning & within 2 hours they've called & are telling me I need (at a minimum) the main PCM & a new battery: $800 + $4800 = $5600 total.
My new IMA fan (thanks to Nick Stueve) is working great - in fact I averaged 81 MPG yesterday on my commute (approx. 40 miles round trip).
Any ideas/suggestions?
#1 on the list. Don't buy a battery from the dealer. At 81 mpg you shouldn't need a new ECM/PCM either.

Post the error codes (DTCs) the dealer got on the car. They should be on the invoice. If not call them and ask what they are.
 

·
Lean Burn = Happiness
Joined
·
2,155 Posts
The only time I've seen a 1444 is when the car was started with the grid charger still connected to the car, not actually plugged in to the wall, only the car.

Scott
We updated our wiring a little over a year ago to prevent this from happening. Unless a customer has a charger that is older than a year, they can leave our chargers connected while operating the vehicle and no DTC will occur.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,742 Posts
I just found out from the Honda dealer (3rd call's a charm):
CODE: P0420 & P1647
PCM part # is 37820-PHM-505
Neither of those are directly concerned with the battery at all. I'd call around and see if one of the local car parts stores will read your OBDII codes out for free to get a second opinion since the dealer can't seem to get their assessment of what DTCs your car has.

The P0420 is the dreaded Cat converter below efficiency money maker. You can read about it here,

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6EDknyr-8unN0xUVlRVamVNamc/view?pli=1

On the 2000 cars the ECM could not be firmware updated and they had to change the module to correct it for being too sensitive to efficiency loss of the cat converter. And it was a free exchange because it was related to emissions. I'm not sure if the 505 was the exchange ECM or or the original one.
-----------

There are 8 different dashboard flash codes associated with the P1647. You'll have to read out which one(s) you might have with a paper clip. The P1647 has to do with the signals between the ECM and the MCM but truthfully if the car is giving normal assist etc then I would not worry about it right now and try to figure out if the battery needs help or is it the emissions that are out of spec.
---------

"mntc required" means you probably need to change your oil/filter and do other maintenance things depending upon the mileage on the car.

With all the dash problems you are seeing have you checked the 4 major ground cables?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,742 Posts
I replaced the Catalytic Converter about a year ago w a POS from eBay.
I only know of 2 ground cables (the 12V & the IMA).
There's two battery cables and there's two more under the air cleaner box.

I replaced the two under the air cleaner with AWG #4 wires from the junk yard. The deaf-to-be kids use that size wire to hook up their 1000 watt speaker systems.
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top