[johnhull]

Hello everyone. My 2006 insight finally threw me the IMA light with code P0a7f. It's the original battery with 156k on it. Light went on with a full charge that lost 3 bars over a couple days then jumped to zero bars suddenly. Car still starts and runs for now with jittery difficult take offs from park. I think a new battery is the right path, as I don't have time to grid charge let alone do any real discharging to try and recondition the old battery.
Can anyone in the north east help me install the new battery. I live in Middlesex, nj which is in central NJ. In willing to pay for your time and help.
Thanks
John

 

[geocougar]

Nnj

Hello John, I'm in north NJ, 33 miles from you. I have a 2000 MT I acquired in 2012.

I can assist you, but I've never replaced an IMA battery. But I have opened the IPU compartment to install a grid charger harness, built a grid charger, installed a Calpod clutch switch, and have done the TPS mod. I'm building an IMAC&C currently (albeit slowly).

I also have 2 Insight meets under my belt, met Mike Dabrowski and have seen JimE's "dogbite" citrus.

It will be a learning experience for me as well, as I know I will have to replace my IMA battery at some point.

Saturdays only.

George

 

[johnhull]

thanks

Thanks for the quick reply. I'll be ordering the battery today. It should arrive within two weeks. The battery guide says it should take about three hours for someone's first time. I have experience working on cars, I've just never done this job. I usually work 13 hours on Saturdays, but might be able to have the morning off to do the job if we could compete it by 3. I'd rather have a whole day open though. Monday, Wednesday, and Friday are best for me, but beggars can't be choosers.

 

[johnhull]

thanks

Thanks for the quick reply. I'll be ordering the battery today. It should arrive within two weeks. The battery guide says it should take about three hours for someone's first time. I have experience working on cars, I've just never done this job. I usually work 13 hours on Saturdays, but might be able to have the morning off to do the job if we could compete it by 3. I'd rather have a whole day open though. Monday, Wednesday, and Friday are best for me, but beggars can't be choosers.

 

[johnhull]

If you can only do Saturday, how's the 23rd work for you. Looks like I'll be able to come to work as late as 5 or 6 that day. Hopefully the car will make it to then. My email is [email protected].

 

[eal]

The battery guide says it should take about three hours for someone's first time.

I wouldn't plan on 3, not and have everything, trim and whatnot, put back.

This weekend it took me over an hour and a half - and I still didn't get all the trim quite back right. (3rd time for me.)

If you need to get to "Drivable", that's probably doable. Check out the "pack lifter" plans and ideas. It's really not *That* bad if you can get some leverage on it - I took a ratchet strap piece, used the hook on the front handgrip, wrapped the other around the back pickup point, and that made things much easier. I got some help from my father in law getting it out and onto a board (I was standing on the spare tire), and then once it's there, it's easy enough to pick up and move.

If you've got time to find one, a engine hoist might be simpler (or make things much harder.)

Good luck!

Oh, and the other thing - be sure to - BEFORE YOU PUT THE COVER AND EVERYTHING BACK ON - get in, reconnect the 12V, and start it and make sure no lights.

I forgot/missed one flipping BCM connector and had to re-disassemble everything.....

 

[Need4Speed]

Notes:

Prior to removing the large cover:

Make sure that you removed the one oddball screw that is under the small IMA switch cover. Easy to overlook.
Make sure you remove the three or five press in plastic fasteners that secure the carpet that goes between the seat area and the IMA area. I did not see those and snapped them off.
Note what screws come from what locations, I think there are three different types, and one type has two lengths. If I recall correctly there is one odd screw under the IMA switch cover, 3-5 on the right and left sides that have a star head, most of the rest are the same, and I think that the two that hold the IMA switch cover down might be slightly shorter.

 

[Mountain driver]

geo and john, check out Mike's website: http://99mpg.com/ he's got video's for many tasks. And jeff652's website, http://hybridautomotive.com/insight/, instructions with pics.

btw: geo, I met you at the '12 midatlantic meet along with Mike and crowd.

..Bob

 

[geocougar]

John, I'll pencil off the 23rd on my calendar. I'll try to get Friday Nov. 22 off (I do have many vacation days left) so you won't have to rush this.

Though your battery is new, one day you may have to grid charge it. May I suggest you ask if a grid charger harness could be pre-installed on the battery -- or you could wire it in yourself.

At the New England meet, I watched Matt lift the battery out all by himself -- no pack lifter, no helper, he just got himself into the trunk and hoisted it out. If I were to do the same for sure I would injure myself, so I'm thinking how to best do a 2-man lift. Well at least there will be two of us to lift it.

Hi Bob (Mountain driver) -- thanks for the links!

George

 

[Bornloser]

I am almost 60, and I have changed 2 batteries out by myself, with no pack lifter. It really isnt that bad. Get the pictures...there is a step by step with pictures...follow it. As I said, I lifted the pack out by myself with no lifter and it isnt that bad....

 

[matt2001]

And if you have rear speakers and a helper in there take the speakers out before your knee goes through. I'll loan you my lifter if you promise to ship it back when you're done.

 

[johnhull]

thanks

Thanks for all the help and advice. I've gone over the instructions with pictures but will take a look at the videos too. Has anyone tried sliding rope or straps under the battery? I feel the lack of a good handle is the biggest problem. I would love to borrow the lifter and ship it back. Just email me.

 

[Mike Dabrowski 2000]

Yes the pack can be removed and reinstalled by one person, but one slip, and you can smash the relay board, and if you have a weak back, you can throw that out because of the awkward lifting position.
A simple and easy to make alternative to my pack lifter is the plywood and garage door version shown here.
http://99mpg.com/ProjectCars/insightbatterypack/

Being able to lift with 2 guys sharing the load allows careful lifting and control of the pack throughout the process.
Guys have used transmission lifts with ropes, and if the garage door handles are located in the center, you can connect the handles to a lifting bar with ropes.
Good luck

 

[eal]

Thanks for all the help and advice. I've gone over the instructions with pictures but will take a look at the videos too. Has anyone tried sliding rope or straps under the battery? I feel the lack of a good handle is the biggest problem. I would love to borrow the lifter and ship it back. Just email me.

What I did was use a ratchet strap - hook to the front (which that handgrip doesn't go all the way through, so you have to keep tension on the hook - and wrapped and tied around the back grip/lift point. A smaller hook could go into another front lift point easily.

A pack lifter would be a better idea. I've picked mine out twice with some help from my father and father-in-law. Once it's out, it's not that bad. But getting it in/out without smashing something is the problem - it's heavy enough that a slip/drop is a real problem.

If you get the battery up enough to get a strap around it - you've got it up enough to pull it. But that might bear some thinking on, I've got some big straps with hand grips.

 

[matt2001]

Thanks for all the help and advice. I've gone over the instructions with pictures but will take a look at the videos too. Has anyone tried sliding rope or straps under the battery? I feel the lack of a good handle is the biggest problem. I would love to borrow the lifter and ship it back. Just email me.

Here's a pic of my lifter. It's apart in the box. It attaches with the same bolts that hold the ipu cover in place. Once everything is lined up correctly, tighten up the nuts on the threaded rod and the structure will become very rigid. The threaded "handles" give good grip and won't slip when you lift it, but gloves are recommended. I wore a pair of rubber gloves inside cloth ones just because I was paranoid about getting electricuted after reading the "you will be killed" decal. With the circuit breaker switch off it's safe to touch the terminals. PM me where you want it shipped and it's on the way. I also laid a section of 2x8 lumber about 3 feet long or so across the trunk box and covered it with a blanket. Then my helper and I lifted the battery staight up and back, sat it down on top of the blanket where it rested until the other guy got out of the car. Then it's a piece of cake. We didn't break anything accept a couple of the trim connectors that were inexpensive. http://www.insightcentral.net/forums/bumblebee-batteries/25162-bumblebee-maxima-battery-excellent-experience-2.html#post325265

 

[geocougar]

Matt2001, my back thanks you for lending your lifter to John!

Nice looking lifter -- you even painted it red.

As I am probably going to be the person inside the car during the lift: do you think we could just put a piece of cloth and cardboard/plywood over the speaker to protect it?

I read some people took the passenger seat out to get more room. Hopefully with the pack lifter that won't be necessary.

 

[matt2001]

Matt2001, my back thanks you for lending your lifter to John!

Nice looking lifter -- you even painted it red.

As I am probably going to be the person inside the car during the lift: do you think we could just put a piece of cloth and cardboard/plywood over the speaker to protect it?

I read some people took the passenger seat out to get more room. Hopefully with the pack lifter that won't be necessary.

The angle iron pieces I used were part of a display rack I made years ago which explains the paint. I didn't take the seat out, but that would make the job easier. Like Mike said it's an awkward place. That's a good idea to cover the speaker for protection.

 

[Mountain driver]

Slide the passenger seat all the way forward and put the seat back forward, gives a person enough room to 'step in' behind the seat and assist with the lift (using the lift device).

..Bob

 

[geocougar]

John's got the new battery delivered and a grid charger harness, so we're on for this Saturday Nov. 23.

I previously thought that turning the IMA breaker off would shut off the juice completely (as I did measure IIRC zero volts when I installed my own grid charger some months back).

Then I read in one of the threads that in some places on the battery, there would still be "live" 96 volts DC. Makes me respect that IMA battery even more.

 

[jime]

I previously thought that turning the IMA breaker off would shut off the juice completely (as I did measure IIRC zero volts when I installed my own grid charger some months back).

You are correct. Honda did a good job designing the junction board to insure pretty much fool proof safety. That said, these cars are old and someone might have foolishly tinkered the board so do not take chances by putting hands on the junction board.

The switch electrically breaks the battery in the middle. Unless someone finds a way to get electrical access to the switch terminals, then shock is almost impossible. Honda put a cover over the switch terminals so it is practically impossible to gain such access. I'd just make sure that the critical cover is in place so that you can't see any conductors on either side of the switch. (Remote chance that someone could have foolishly left the cover off.) It is also worthwhile to make sure that the passenger side orange battery cover with the warning stickers is in place. You can see that one easily.

My take from studying the board several times. I still keep my hands off the face of the junction board