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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
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Oh that was so much fun. NOTE: There is a circlip on the inboard side of the trailing arm which will hold the wheel bearing and backing plate in place even after the wheel bearing bolts have been removed. There is also a o-ring which fits on the inboard side of the wheel bearing stub shaft which will to fall on the floor and to go unnoticed if you're not careful.
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Almost out, only had to loosen the muffler hangers.
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If you're going to do automotive work this time of year in Illinois . . .

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You better have one of these.

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Had to stop by the hardware store for this solution.

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Put an end to the drip drip drip.

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Arizona rear brakes look brand new after 170,000 miles. Put rubber plugs in the wheel cylinders as well to help protect them.

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Did not even remove the parking brake cable from the backing plates.

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Elmer's glue all holds the wood together, and the peg is to keep the body from sliding off; it fits up into an opening in the unibody.

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Had to rotate the driver's side rearward, and then slide the passenger side trailing arm up over top of the exhaust pipe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
@trickle, I'm still working that out.
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I attempted to press out one of the bushings today, but did not get too far.
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As time and money is limited (I really want to get in the car back on the road and start benefiting from it it's incredible fuel mileage), I think I'm going to try the 3M window weld solution.
 

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y2k silver'sight, hch1 5spd, snow tires
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that is going to be difficult to replicate with window weld.. where did you read that works for this? i bought poly bush's for mine but mine haven't died yet. in the poly bush thread they go over certain details like one side of the axle tube is slightly smaller diameter than the other.. maybe why the press isn't working.? i have replaced rubber bushings on other cars by torching and pushing with a screwdriver. the smoke is highly toxic so im not going to recommend it.
 

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My rear axle bushings are in the same or worse condition as yours... what's your gameplan to replace them?
Edit: I thought the 3M WindowWeld was for the engine mounts... looks like you're gameplan is to actually use that for the rear bushings... let us know how it works out long term.

FYI: We're working on rear bushing a solution that doesn't require replacing the entire rear axle beam from Honda. Obviously not useful for you right now, but hopefully it's a solved problem 2023Q1.
 

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View attachment 100190
I attempted to press out one of the bushings today, but did not get too far.
I was able to remove ONE bushing with case with a 5 lb hammer and an axle socket. I took that ONE bushing to the machine shop to be model after when I ask the my machinist friend to modify the RuffStuff busying's casing. I left the other oem bushing in the subframe as a guide on how much to press in the aftermarket bushing. My friend used an hydraulic press to remove and install the bushing with case.


View attachment 100191
As time and money is limited (I really want to get in the car back on the road and start benefiting from it it's incredible fuel mileage), I think I'm going to try the 3M window weld solution.
Wind Weld is not going to work at all. Rotational force will break the bond in no time.
 

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2000 Honda Insight, 5MT
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Sorry I may not have been following along. What were your symptoms?
(My 288k mi insight has no clunks, but dear god my welded diff 240sx has all the clunks)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
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I then dry scrubbed all mating surfaces, and washed them out with Brakleen. I used the non-flammable formula as it will not leave any petroleum residue on the parts. And then used compressed air to remove any residual product, and dirt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
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I have had plenty of cars with over 200,000 miles and have never had rear suspension bushings fail like this. This seems to be a design flaw. The gaps in the rubber allow the inertia of the car (green) to shear the bushing rubber whenever the brakes are applied and pull against the inertia of the car to slow it down (red).
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
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Before reassembling the inner and outer pieces of the bushing I made sure to fill in all of the factory designed rubber gaps using multiple thin beads inside of the bushings. Then I applied thin beads to the inner part of the bushing before assembling both pieces. By using thin beads I believe that this will start the curing process as it allows the urethane plenty of exposure to air before assembly.
 

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2001 5S "Turbo"
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WD 40 also works.
 

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