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After much research and deliberation, this is the system I've come up with. There are a couple of lines with question marks, however, which is where I could use some help.

H/U: Eclips CD8053 ($499)
Speakers: Boston Acoustics Z6 ($1000)
Amp: ?
Sub: Bazooka 10"/150 Watts Bass Tube RS10A-HP ($289)
Sound Deadening: Dynamat

Question about amp: There are no rear speakers... and I won't be putting any in. The Bazooka Bass Tube is self-amplified... so I won't need a sub amp. All I need is some nice clean power for the Z6 components up front. Do I need a 2-channel or 4-channel amp? Is 100X2 or 100X4 (RMS) enough for the Z6... or should I be looking at 200X/300X/400X, etc.? Or is 75X sufficient? I don't need loud... just clean and crisp. Any suggestions you can offer as alternatives will be gladly fielded. If you can come up with good reasons why some of my choices are bad ones, I'd love to hear them.

Thanks, in advance, for all of your help and advice.

Regards,

Trip

p.s. In case it makes a difference, I mostly listen to orchestral music (Classical/Film Scores/Etc.) and Jazz... with the occasional Classic Rock thrown in.
 

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Good choice on head unit I have used Eclipse products for years and have been pleased with them for clarity and ease of operation. My recomendation if you really want "true" clear life like music would be to consider these other Eclipse products.
Amp Eclipse PA4212, 2 channel amp it is rated at 310w x 2. Eclipse amp's are well known as not a true "loud" amp but exceddingly clear and crisp tones with no unwanted noise.
I think maybe you should look at the Eclipse 8701, 3-way line source speakers for the front. I feel they would be a better speaker for your money as far as clarity and excellent performance thru all the ranges from highs to mids and a nice mello deep midrange bass. To install you will need to utilize a spacer ring to allow magnet to miss window and to allow the larger diameter to fit in stock location, I fabricated My own spacers for My 8062 eclipses in "MIZR". The tweeterts fit very nicely and easily on the door panels and are adjustable to give you a good "aiming". I also am working on a set of custom made kick panel speaker pods to replace the lousy "fit all" ones I have my set of MB Quartz PCE216 mounted in now. with the additional set up front you get a truer sound stage.
 

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You only need a 2 channel amp for 2 speakers. You've picked some high end speakers so don't worry so much about power think quality. JL Audio or Alpine would be my high end choice.

Don't forget to increase your car insurance to cover the speakers..

Call Boston and ask there advice :idea:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The problem with asking Boston Acoustics what they think, is that they recommend their own amps. Now, of course, their amps might be great... but I've never read anything on any of the forums or review sites around the internet that put them at the top of any recommendation list. I have, of course, heard about JL Audio and Alpine. Head good things about Eclipse, too, as far as clean power is concerned. McIntosh is also high on the quality list. The Z6 speakers are rated from 40-400 Watts. I figure if I land somewhere in the 300 Watt range, I should pretty much be covered.

Counterpoint?
 

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KiKoBa


No amp here, I can't justify the $$'s vs. watts - just 4 x 60/ Chnl .... and for what it's worth I replaced all (4) my speakers with Boston's NX 67's and am very happy with the ' new " sound I get compared to the stock speakers .... which we all know are a real joke :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So... I've decided to go with a vacuum tube amp, as it really provides the kind of clean power and sound I want. Here are the three choices I have:

1. US Amps TU-600 - 300watts 2 Channel Tube Power Amplifier. (~$490)
Two Channel Class A Amplifier
Direct Tube Input
Oversized MOSFET Power Supply
Total Power Output: 600 Watts RMS
THD at Rated Power: <0.05%
Signal/Noise Ratio: >100dBA
Frequency Response: 15Hz-50KHz +/-0dB
Fuse Rating: 60 Amps
Weight: 3.63kg / 8.00lb
Two Ohm Stable
150 Watts x 2 into 4 Ohms
300 Watts x 2 into 2 Ohms


2. Butler Tube Driver BLUE 2150 (~$699):
Power @ 4ohms, 14V 2 x 150Watts RMS, Both channels driven (TRUE Power)
1 x 500Watts RMS, Mono (Bridged)
Driver Tubes 6SL7GT x 2 Dual Triodes, Hand Selected
Tube Heaters DC, Fully Regulated, Delayed Soft Start
Output Devices 12 x 15Amps, Sanken (Audiophile grade)
Cooling Massive Internal/External Heat Exchanger with quiet, Temperature-controlled Fan
Heat Exchanger 400% Oversized (Compared to original model 1500)
Frequency Response 5Hz - 100Khz (+/- 1 dB)
Idling Current 2.4 Amps
THD (Distortion) Less than 0.15% (30Khz Bandwidth, Unweighted)
S/N Ratio Better than 110dB (A-weighted)
Negative Feedback ZERO, no global negative degenerative F/B loop (Open-Ended Design)
Tonality Musical, Warm & Dynamic (Rivals 'All Tube', home audiophile amps)
Dimensions 10.2" x 17.3" x 2.4"
Weight 12 Lbs.
Color Frosted Platinum
Tube Illumination Internal BLUE LEDs (Trademark and Patent Pending)

3. Tube Driver BLUE 275 (~$499):
Power @ 4ohms, 14V 2 x 75Watts RMS, Both channels driven (TRUE Power)
1 x 250Watts RMS, Mono (Bridged)
Driver Tubes 6SL7GT x 2 Dual Triodes, Hand Selected
Tube Heaters DC, Fully Regulated, Delayed Soft Start
Output Devices 8 x 15Amps, Sanken (Audiophile grade)
Cooling Massive Internal/External Heat Exchanger with quiet, Temperature-controlled Fan
Heat Exchanger 400% Oversized (Compared to original model 1500)
Frequency Response 5Hz - 100Khz (+/- 1 dB)
Idling Current 1.9 Amps
THD (Distortion) Less than 0.15% (30Khz Bandwidth, Unweighted)
S/N Ratio Better than 110dB (A-weighted)
Negative Feedback ZERO, no global negative degenerative F/B loop (Open-Ended Design)
Tonality Musical, Warm & Dynamic (Rivals 'All Tube', home audiophile amps)
Dimensions 10.2" x 13.7" x 2.4"
Weight 9.5 Lbs.
Color Frosted Platinum
Tube Illumination Internal BLUE LEDs (Trademark and Patent Pending)

The real question is 75X2 or 150X2... and if 150X2, then is it worth the extra couple hundred for the Butler amp? The Butler has a higher S/N... but the USAMPS has a better THD. Any thoughts?
 

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I'd stay away from the bass tubes. You won't like the way they roll the bass...
 
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