Honda Insight Forum banner
21 - 40 of 119 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
66 Posts
Hello atikovi. I do have a code P0420 which could mean the sensor could be bad or that the converter is bad. When I bought the car, the center cylinder had a nonfiring coil. I can only imagine the extra fuel hitting that converter and the two sensors. According to abcared00 in a previous post, the sensors I have could be lazy and not reporting proper values to the computer. If the new sensor doesn't help, and a new primary sensor don't help either, I'll change the exhaust out. The exhaust system is the only error code I am seeing. Reading back in other posts, one owner found the converter broke up inside when the converter was pulled. If this error code will stay clear, that will be a good step forward to resolving my herky jerky. ALL parts of the system will have to be checked and cleared till the culprit is found.
 

·
Premium Member
2001 5S "Turbo"
Joined
·
11,602 Posts
MC
A cheaper solution would be to "space" the #2 sensor and see if that helps.
If the number 1 sensor was slow to respond, you would get a P-1165...I can purposely set that code by drastically changing my driving style. NT/T/NT

The CAT contents that were coming apart caused the #2 CAT to become blocked or clogged and the results was a drastic reduction in power.

HTH
Willie
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
66 Posts
MC
A cheaper solution would be to "space" the #2 sensor and see if that helps.
If the number 1 sensor was slow to respond, you would get a P-1165...I can purposely set that code by drastically changing my driving style. NT/T/NT

The CAT contents that were coming apart caused the #2 CAT to become blocked or clogged and the results was a drastic reduction in power.

HTH
Willie
So you are saying to space the sensor out of the exhaust flow some? How much and where do I find this spacer?
Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
From what I know it is called a "spark plug saver" you screw into the oxygen sensor bung threads. It has or should have same threads for oxy sensor and exhaust threads. You will have to drill the "spark plug saver" hole larger to meet close to stock requirements but basically it would be a spacer to pull the oxygen sensor out of the stream a little. A lot of people have to do this when cats are gutted or change to a higher flow exhaust for more power. Youtube i believe has a video on it. Had to do it when I gutted (plugged solid) my cat on ram pickup and threw a cherry bomb muffler with dual exhaust on it

Also have seen videos on removing cat and soaking in soapy water to unclogg cats.

Spark plug saver video.
http://youtu.be/GqDmmLQ4pGk

Cleaning cat video.

http://youtu.be/5icTmYItwiE
 

·
Premium Member
2001 5S "Turbo"
Joined
·
11,602 Posts
Thanks brfwizard;
Although it is assumed changing the exhaust will create a CEL. I've yet seen it happen on my vehicle, no first CAT and no "muffler".
Of course you are talking different size engines also.

HTH
Willie
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
66 Posts
That's a good idea to try that plug extender. I may actually have some in the tool box that were removed from some old chevys. The new O2 sensor came in today. No time to mess with it tonight. I did put some acetone in the tank ~3 oz. to a full tank. No jerky on highway however I do have a lesser effect of jerky driving in city. Acetone may be helpful in my case. I heard today to use Chevron because of their additives. My next couple of tanks I will try that too. I'll be back when I get the O2 switched. A short drive will tell if it helped. Would like that service engine light to stay cleared. Where is my best deal on the primary O2 sensor?
Ken
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
66 Posts
Hey guys I was reading a site on the net and found this comment:

"There is a mark on the head near each of the spark plug holes that indicates with a letter which available indexed spark plugs should be used to that cylinder. The proper plug must be used for each cylinder to prevent misfire. A tune up with aftermarket plugs is likely to be disastrous on this car."

It come from a site >>> Insight: Removing Engine to repair Oil Leak

I bought my Insight about three months ago. It had the E3 plugs in it. Those are not by specification of Honda. I have a second vehicle I have used for parts and it had three A code plugs. I tried those in my car because of the herky jerky. My car calls for B code plugs (which I just received in mail yesterday) and I will change out soon. Reading that comment above, and knowing how sensitive Honda designed and built our cars, could this be something many members of this grooup have overlooked? According to Honda, it is important that the open face of the spark plug face a certain direction because of the valve locations and swirling of the combustion mixture in the chamber. Would it not be unreasonable to think that when the computer tries to go to lean burn that the combustion chamber reaction could be disturbed if the incorrect plug is used? I may be reaching out there. Would anyone have a good thought or two to share?

This is where I ask, for all you guys having herky jerky, are you running the correct Honda plug that IS coded to your cylinder head? I am not at this time and have the Herky jerky problem.
Ken
 

·
Premium Member
2001 5S "Turbo"
Joined
·
11,602 Posts
MC
There are a lot of misleading statement in the LINK, but informative though.
Posted in 2008-Edited in 2010.
The "Spark Plug" theory has yet to be proven. To each his own preference.
I'm still testing after 325K miles.
The engine will run. It is assumed by most INSIGHTERS to run the EOM plugs with the proper Indexing letter.
The price of the plugs are "out of reach".
The vehicle was designed by engineers, not your average mechanic. Need I say more.
Maybe you are being too "technical" but again each person has their own opinion.
Lots of reading needed on the EGR valve. Your decision and your results may vary.

I would have liked to see the "bill" after the job was done.

HTH
Willie
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
66 Posts
Hey Willie.

Not sure of the bill you are referring to. If your talking the plugs, Majestic Honda Parts OUTRAGIOUS 15 bucks a plug. If the mileage turns upward, I will win back only after I have paid. I cringed at the purchase. It's too bad this herky jerky isn't related to one definitive answer.
 

·
Premium Member
2001 5S "Turbo"
Joined
·
11,602 Posts
MC
I mean the bill (Invoice) for changing the gasket/sealer etc.
EOM Plugs here in CA are $22.65 the last time I checked.......each.
15 bucks plus shipping, do the math.
How much are they in Port Arthur, or the closest dealer in TX?
There is a few items that it MAY be. Again devote some time for reading, here at ICN .

HTH
Willie
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,761 Posts
If you are ever near houston, the Honda dealership that runs the website g1parts.com is in kingwood , so you can order them and pick them up. Total comes up to $50 after tax for 3 plugs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
144 Posts
---------> Herky Jerky But No Codes...?<-----------

Hi all, I have a 2001 CVT and am experiencing the herky jerky drivability issue under light accelerator pedal pressure - almost like a bad spot on the throttle position sensor.

I don't have a check engine light on at this point. I've just put in some STP fuel injector cleaner and topped up w/ Chevron gas. No real change. I am also feeling as though I am having to really push down on the accelerator pedal to get moving from a stop. In other words, my peppiness is gone. My MPG's are down some too, however I am not totally convinced that I can't attribute that to my driving habits...

My tuneup components (spark plugs) were changed at 100K and only have 130K miles now. I was going to send out the injectors to be pressured cleaned - but after reading this post I am starting to wonder if I should put my $ toward an O2 sensor...?

I replaced the primary 02 sensor some time ago w/ a Denso that I got from Ebay, but later found out that it wasn't the direct OEM replacement but no check engine light.

I sure would love to cure the herky jerky issue just don't want to spend a mint trying to.

I am open to any and all advice.

Thanks so much,

Mark
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
779 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
144 Posts
That sounds like a great event! I wish I could make it... :(

In regards to the herky jerky experience, I've noticed it doesn't occur when in "open loop." In other words, when I first start out in the AM all is good, no herky jerky, after the engine warms I start to experience the "herky-jerky" stumble.

I am looking to replace the downstream oxygen sensor as suggested in the previous posts - just not sure about the correct part #. When I look up the part on Majestic website (36532-PHM-A11) I can't specify that I have a CVT.

I am planning to call the dealer to get the correct #.

I was hoping others would have some input on the correct (inexpensive) O2 sensor for my 2001 CVT.

Thanks all and enjoy the upcoming event!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
946 Posts
Discussion Starter · #35 · (Edited)
After all those replacements, I was still having a little bit of jerk. Replace my 2 cats seems to fix it now.


My theory is that when the second o2 sensor detect that the cat in inefficient, the ECU go to another mode to stop the possible pollution. I am 100% positive that a CAT cat create jerk.

- My first cat = jerk
- jobber bosal = no jerk
- second cat with p0420 = more jerk
- brand new honda cat = no jerk.



I switch cats like 10 times in july to do some tests. O2 sensors and cat are important to get the proper fuel mixture.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
144 Posts
Thanks for the info. My plan was to replace the secondary O2 sensor in hopes of solving my problem - based on the work that you've already done.

I had to look up what a jobber bosal was...(if I found the right part), I've called that piece a "test pipe". Interesting that w/out a CAT the problem would be cured.

I think you're correct that when the CPU is trying to keep the engine from polluting and protecting the CAT from burning up, it's constantly making adjustments - creating the herky-jerky feel.


I am not getting a code for any faulty part and I know that CAT is very expensive - I'll try and find an inexpensive secondary O2 sensor and replace it and report back.

Thanks,
Mark
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
946 Posts
Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Read my other posts. I would not buy a bosal. It have a very poor design. The flange use a special gasket that leak. It was also ratteling. I would have tried a eastern catalytic but I was tired and I bought a full new eom exhaust
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
144 Posts
Hi again, I found the secondary O2 sensor on eBay for $17 w/ free shipping. The seller states it will work and even verified my engine #. Fingers crossed I don't have to buy a CAT to get back smooth driving.

In California I haven't had to get the car smogged tested so I could eliminate the CAT, however I've heard the testing procedures are changing and my vehicle will become part of the every two year smog testing...

I'll report back w/ how the sensor worked out once I receive it.

Thanks,
Mark
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,661 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
144 Posts
Thanks for the info. I am not getting any codes at this time, so I went w/ the cheapo secondary sensor. I am hopeful it will work and if not I can always get my $ back. Seemed like a good gamble (if there is such a thing).

Thanks,
Mark
 
21 - 40 of 119 Posts
Top