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1- Yes 19$ in ebay. I even order another one as spare :)

2- the second one, after the cat. $ wires o2 sensor. For the first one, I take no chance. Dealer only.


3- mine is also a 2000.
In regards to your point #2. I just replaced the first one with a generic one off eBay. It turned my cel off and my car is driving fine so far. Why would you only trust one from the dealer? Is there a predicted issue I should expect?
 

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This might be slightly off topic, but would a bad primary O2 sensor also cause the herky jerky?

And if so, is there a cheap ebay primary O2 sensor alternative similar to the one you found for the secondary?

It would be great to know I wouldn't have to pay $$$ if my primary O2 sensor ever goes bad.
I just made a post that I just got my car fixed yesterday. I also replaced the primary o2 sensor today. The cel is off now. I test drove it, everything seemed fine. But I only did so for an hour. Remember to ask me again in like a week or a month and I'll tell you if the cel is back/my experience.
 

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So, okay, I checked the passage and it's clean. I also switched the EGR valve with the one from my other insight. No change. BUT! Disconnecting the EGR connector stops the herky jerky completely. I now have only one code (with it disconnected). P1491 EGR valve lift insufficient detected. Does that mean replacing the EGR valve could solve my issues?
 

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So, okay, I checked the passage and it's clean. I also switched the EGR valve with the one from my other insight. No change. BUT! Disconnecting the EGR connector stops the herky jerky completely. I now have only one code (with it disconnected). P1491 EGR valve lift insufficient detected. Does that mean replacing the EGR valve could solve my issues?
That just seems backwards though.
 

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I've tried disconnecting the EGR valve and the bucking goes away, but the lack of power is still prevalent.
This a widely accepted test that your EGR circuit is the source of your herkey-jerkies. When you disconnect the valve, the valve closes, effectively disabeling the EGR circuit. You may have an EGR valve other than the Insight valve. Member "Sean" has done a lot of testing of various EGR valves by measuring their opening characteristics(valve lift curve vs. applied voltage). Many valves on the market aren't even close to the Insight valve performance. Because of slightly different ECM versions, you may have a valve which works OK in one car but not the other. Or, You may still have blockage somewhere in the EGR circuit. The part of the circuit within the cylinder head should be carefully checked.

Is the EGR valve you are using the OEM valve? If not, what is it?
 

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This a widely accepted test that your EGR circuit is the source of your herkey-jerkies. When you disconnect the valve, the valve closes, effectively disabeling the EGR circuit. You may have an EGR valve other than the Insight valve. Member "Sean" has done a lot of testing of various EGR valves by measuring their opening characteristics(valve lift curve vs. applied voltage). Many valves on the market aren't even close to the Insight valve performance. Because of slightly different ECM versions, you may have a valve which works OK in one car but not the other. Or, You may still have blockage somewhere in the EGR circuit. The part of the circuit within the cylinder head should be carefully checked.

Is the EGR valve you are using the OEM valve? If not, what is it?
I believe both cars have original EGR valves. Both produce the same herky jerky.

I blew air from the valve. It came out the passage at the EGR plate and was very free flowing.
 

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I don't know how the jerkies disappear with the EGR disconnected, but don't disappear with two different EGR valves - unless both EGR valves are faulty... Not saying I know it's not possible, just that I don't know how it would be.

You cleaned the EGR plate.
You tried two different Insight OEM valves, original and swap. Jerkies remained with both valves.
You disconnect and jerkies go away...

Note that the most common problem with the valve itself, as I understand it, is the carbon wiper tracks inside the top of the valve (it's not a dirty or sticking mechanical mechanism itself). It's been said that the wiper fingers seem to have been installed upside down on a lot of them, so the fingers scrape the tracks rather than gliding over them. There's old EGR threads about how to fix that, it's not entirely easy but it's a simple process.

I think I might try to find one of the recommended alternative, cheaper EGRs, not sure what that is these days, it used to be an accord one, buy, install. Either that or try to fix yours if you have a bit of skill. You'd need pull the top off, disassemble a few things, clean, flip wiper fingers, solder a couple pins/wires back in, put back together. Access is a little sketchy, tight - you gotta solder short terminal wires back in place and tuck them in while you put the top back on...

edit: Here's a link to a description of the process when I did it, back in 2012. I thought there were picts but I don't see any: EGR Valve Repair

Here's an image of the inside of the EGR top, in case you decide to try a repair:
90603


That metal ring holds the top portion of the valve to the bottom, it has tiny friction-fit tangs that 'click' onto the bottom portion. Those you gently pry/bend out and the thing comes apart. There will be two terminals with very short wires attaching the top to the bottom; the thing on the right is normally attached to the thing on the left, with those short wires or pins, can't remember. You can see the two divets at the top of the left stuff where the wires were attached, they're now just blobs. I don't think you can pull the two halves apart without breaking those connections, so you need to redo them when you put stuff back together.

Once you get stuff apart I recall it's pretty self explanatory as to how it all works and is put together.

Like I said, I did this back in 2012, I'm still using the same EGR valve, jerkies were fixed, etc.
 

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What a great post. I went down that path and actually added a step. Once you pry off the lid, you can use a small soldering iron and get rid of most of the solder on the connections. Then you drill a small hole on through from the bottom to locate the holes. Now, using a larger drill, (about 3/16) drill down from the top through the plastic until you reach the metal. Then the posts from the base go right through the holes and you can solder them from the top after you reassemble everything. Just be sure to unsolder them if you ever decide to go back in. I found out the hard way, and broke off the posts on one of them when going back in. No problem though, I just scraped the insulation off the ends the small wires and stuck them through the holes and soldered them when reassembling. Worked great.
 

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However............. After going through the whole repair... four times... that's twice on each of the two valves I have, neither solved my Herky Jerky problem. So I put one of them on my other car, which is almost a parts car, because it has some body damage and needs brakes... etc. Anyway, with a jumper battery and no plates I headed out on the road with that one. NO Herky Jerky.

So I feel it's safe to say my problem is not EGR valve related. Then I come back to the fact that unplugging the EGR valve stops my Herky Jerky problem. What the..........???
 

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I tried the described fix. If the EGR valve bearings are shot this can cause the valve to stick and overshoot when friction is finally overcome. Such was the case with mine. I did the fix, didn't have herky-jerky before or after, but it took a new valve to make a noticeable mileage improvement.
 

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Well, I think I'd try disconnecting the EGR electrical connector one more time to be absolutely sure the jerkies go away, unless you are already sure. And then, if they do go away, I'd have to conclude it's gotta be something upstream from the valve and mechanical passageways, etc. Maybe the wires at the connector? The wires in general - any connections upstream from the valve connector? I don't know what else could be wrong 'upstream', don't know how all the computer stuff works...

After checking wires for integrity, or whatever, if not finding anything... You say you have a parts car - if it's a manual and same model year, or thereabouts, I think I might try swapping ECMs. Pretty easy to do, doesn't cost anything, reversible...
 

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I have a whole thread on EGR valve measurement. You can definitely see a hysteresis as the valve changes from open to closed.

I've tested a number of valves with @jime and we concluded they probably start having issues before 100K miles. The long term viability of the fix is mixed.

The motivation behind the "fix" was the high cost of a dealer-sourced valve. Since then a substitute has been found for much less and against which issues have not been reported.

Take it from someone who thought along the same lines as you, and even went to the trouble of building an EGR valve tester to characterize the problem: buy the new valve recommended by others here, and don't look back.

This may or may not fix the problem, but will eliminate the valve as a variable and improve your fuel economy.
 

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^ It's not the valve, OP tried two valves, swapped one to the other car, it worked there, etc.
 

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I remember seeing somewhere... the other valve that people were using, but can't find it now. Anyone know what it is? At cheap, it can't hurt to try. And fuel economy is definitely an issue right now, so why not?
 

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^ I'm not sure what the latest recommendation is, I'm sure someone else will chime-in. But, in response to "Why not?" I'd say this: you tried two valves, cleaned the plate, cleaned the passage, you tried one valve on the other car and it worked fine - so you know you've tried a valve that works. You pull the connector and still have the problem problem goes away. Logic leads me to believe the problem has to be upstream from the valve...

Before throwing money at yet a different valve, I'd at least take a peek at the connector wires and try to trace the wires as 'upstream' as you can. It'd take about 5-10 minutes. I'd do the ECM swap too, again, pretty easy, free, etc. In my mind these steps are more likely to produce a positive outcome - even if it's just finding out that these aren't the problem - than buying another valve.

My 2 cents.
 

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Okay, finally got time to do that today. Wires all look fine. At least the harnesses look normal. Once the ECM was changed, the car won't start. Does nothing. But once, the mechanical starter engaged, but it didn't start.
 

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^ It's probably the key security thing. You'll need to have the key from the ECM donor car, tape the finger-grip portion of the donor key to the working key, back to back, so you can still insert your working key and turn it. The finger-grip portion contains a transponder specific to the ECM. With them taped together, the transponder from the donor key should trigger the ECM code thing and allow you to start... I've only read about this, never tried it... When there's a security lock-out like this, there should be a green key icon in the instrument cluster, that remains on or blinks or something. Normally you can see that icon when you first insert the key and turn it, I think it comes ON then goes out. If there's a problem I think it stays ON or blinks...
 
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