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The key needs to match the ECM for security ie starting. Search YouTube for ways to defeat the key / security system
 

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Hmmm... Can't seem to get the car to recognize the donor key no matter how I position it.
That's a bummer. I think there's a couple threads about that, might be worth searching and seeing if there's some special tricks. I wish I had some advice but I've never done that before. Since you're just trying a quick ECM swap to diagnose your jerkies, I don't think it'd be worth delving into the security transponder bypass stuff. I think that entails opening up the ECM, buying a little PCB, desoldering and soldering, etc. Seems like a lot of trouble for a long-shot attempt to figure out the jerkies...
 

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So I had this dumb idea. What if I wrap the car key in tin foil and hold the donor key close by? Danged if it didn't work. Car started right up!

However, the result was that I still have the Herky Jerkies. So swapping the ECM didn't locate the problem.
 

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What a great idea, I'll be sure to remember that. But damn, I was hoping the ECM swap would do miracles. Because now it's really a mystery. If it were my car and I'd done everything you've done, I'd have to look over the entire circuit between ECM and EGR connector, trace the wires and test each connection.

This assumes:

-you have a working EGR valve and you know it works because it worked in your other car,
-you pull the EGR connector and the jerkies go away, put it back and they come back,
-you've swapped the ECM and the jerkies remain.

The only thing left is the wires in between. Not sure how thoroughly you looked those over, so, if you did a careful inspection then I have no clue.

Maybe someone else will chime-in about now and have an answer?? I don't know what else it could be.
 

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I'm coming to this conversation late, so I apologize if I'm mentioning something that you've already done. I bought a second G1 a few months ago that had been poorly maintained. I've about solved all of the major issues and my son will be driving it, soon. One of the last big issues was bad herky jerky. I had previously disconnected the EGR valve and with it disconnected, the herky jerky stopped. So, last weekend we cleaned the EGR plate. It was about 75-80% clogged. But that only offered slight improvement. Then I ordered a new Wells 4F1890 EGR valve from Rockauto. It arrived on Wednesday. We installed it and took it for a drive. Unfortunately, there was no change. But then, my son noticed in the Wells EGR valve box, a piece of paper suggesting that you disconnect the 12v battery for 30 minutes so that the system will be forced to learn the new EGR valve. 30 minutes seemed stupid to me. But I did disconnect the 12v battery for about two minutes. Then I reconnected it and took it for a drive. Still had bad herky jerky, inititally, but I kept driving it and after about 7-8 minutes, it started getting better! By about the 10 minute mark the herky jerky was dependably gone. I then continued to drive it for about 1/2 hour and it has been gone since. We took it for another drive last night, and it was still gone. I don't know whether it was disconnecting the 12v battery, or just driving the car for longer than might be considered necessary, but our problem appears to now be solved. Hope this might be helpful for @[email protected] or others.
 

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Hmmm. Interesting. During my testing of the EGR valves with the other car, I "borrowed" the 12V battery because the donor car's battery is toast. It was out for about 24 hours, and that didn't help. I guess I could try driving it more. I've only been driving eight miles or so after each change.

Okay, just put over an hour of driving on it. Twenty minutes, twenty minutes, fifteen minutes and ten minutes... or so. Jerky still there. Did part of the fifteen and all of the ten with the valve disconnected. No Jerky.

I'll also do a closer, more detailed inspection of the harness and connections.
 

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I had previously disconnected the EGR valve and with it disconnected, the herky jerky stopped. So, last weekend we cleaned the EGR plate. It was about 75-80% clogged. But that only offered slight improvement. Then I ordered a new Wells 4F1890 EGR valve from Rockauto. It arrived on Wednesday. We installed it and took it for a drive. Unfortunately, there was no change. But then, my son noticed in the Wells EGR valve box, a piece of paper suggesting that you disconnect the 12v battery for 30 minutes so that the system will be forced to learn the new EGR valve. 30 minutes seemed stupid to me. But I did disconnect the 12v battery for about two minutes. Then I reconnected it and took it for a drive. Still had bad herky jerky, inititally, but I kept driving it and after about 7-8 minutes, it started getting better! By about the 10 minute mark the herky jerky was dependably gone. I then continued to drive it for about 1/2 hour and it has been gone since. We took it for another drive last night, and it was still gone. I don't know whether it was disconnecting the 12v battery, or just driving the car for longer than might be considered necessary, but our problem appears to now be solved.
Wanted to update this post. I think I spoke too soon. While cleaning the EGR plate and installing a new valve has greatly improved the problem, it isn't fully solved. Anecdotally, the herky jerky seems to get better after driving the car for about 10 minutes. Also, it seems to be worse on some days and better on others. So, I don't think my problems are fully solved. I think my next step is to clean the passage way below the EGR valve.
 

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Don't forget to remove the (hard to get to) bolt for that task.
 

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@[email protected] any success recently?

On my second Insight, I'm now officially confused. I have cleaned the EGR plate, and used a new EGR gasket and intake manifold gaskets. I have replaced the EGR valve with a brand new Wells 4F1890. And this weekend, I completely cleaned the passageways underneath the EGR valve. I removed that hard to get to 12mm bolt underneath. I was able to stick an extra long plastic zip tie 6 inches into that hole and turn it all around. No carbon came out with it. I was also able to spray tons of carb cleaner down the ports below the EGR valve, and it never backed up. I'm fairly confident that there is no clog in those passageways. At this point, everything I know says that the EGR system is clean.

However, I get BAD herky jerky. But to be very precise, it seems that I only get it when I'm trying to get into LB. Once I get into LB, the car runs fine. It is only in rich burn mode that I get violent herky jerky. It seems to be smooth once I'm LB. When I say violent herky jerky, I don't mean unevenness, I mean the car is shaking/lunging/lurching (whatever you want to call it).

However, in spite of everything I've stated above, if I disconnect the EGR valve the herky jerky stops! I'm kind of at a loss as to how to proceed at this point.
 

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I was gonna say spark plugs or coils, and then TPS, until I got to the bottom of your post. If you pull the EGR electrical connector and the problem goes away, it seems like it has to be something to do with the EGR. Sounds like you've done everything downstream from the valve, so only thing left is upstream. No clue what it could be upstream, besides the obvious 'broken wires' and such.
 

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Thanks. I'll have to see if I can find a wiring diagram in the service manual. Also, doesn't anybody know what I should be checking on the pinouts of the connector, when using a multimeter?
 

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I wanted to add another data point to my troubleshooting of my herky jerky problem (in my beater Insight). After cleaning my entire EGR system (EGR plate, passageways, and new EGR valve), I started digging deeper. I have also confirmed that I don't have any vacuum leaks and my valves are properly adjusted. Today, I decided to pour in three bottles of Techron, one bottle of Berryman B12 Chemtool, and then fill up the tank. Then, I planned to drive it "like I stole it": 70-75mph in 4th gear on the interstate, to work, sometimes getting close to 80mph. This keeps my RPMS around 3000-3200. This is an 80 mile round trip. My plan is to do this for several days.

Today was day 1. Here is what I found very interesting: I stayed in VTEC mode almost the entire commute. It is my understanding that in VTEC mode, lean burn is not a possibility. (I did try a couple of times to confirm that, and found it impossible.) But perhaps most interesting was that I still had bad herky jerky around 3000 RPMs, when slightly letting off the accelerator.

Driving at a completely different RPM level, than usual, I realized that I get the same BAD herky jerky whenever I slightly left off of the accelerator. The OBDIIC&C shows that I'm still in VTEC mode, while the car is suffering from the herky jerky and not trying to get into lean burn mode. Up until this point, I only knew that I got herky jerky at around 1800-2000 RPMs, while letting off the accelerator, when trying to get into lean burn mode.

Even though disconnecting the EGR valve seems to stop the herky jerky, I'm becoming increasingly confident that the problem is unrelated to the EGR system. It seems like something else is interacting with the EGR system. I have a recurring P0172. So, at this point, I'm thinking that my next thing to check out is the fuel pressure and then possibly the TPS.

-Bryan
 

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^ Might be worth removing your VTEC 'spool valve' and check the oil filter/screen thing... I've never done it, but as I recall it's not hard to do, and it seems ... somewhat possible that a dirty screen could interfere with normal VTEC operation and mess up other stuff, giving you the jerkies...
 

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Even though disconnecting the EGR valve seems to stop the herky jerky, I'm becoming increasingly confident that the problem is unrelated to the EGR system. It seems like something else is interacting with the EGR system. I have a recurring P0172. So, at this point, I'm thinking that my next thing to check out is the fuel pressure and then possibly the TPS.

-Bryan
Confirmed that the fuel pressure system is operating within the proper range of pressure. So it is something else.
 

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Thanks for the info. My plan was to replace the secondary O2 sensor in hopes of solving my problem - based on the work that you've already done.

I had to look up what a jobber bosal was...(if I found the right part), I've called that piece a "test pipe". Interesting that w/out a CAT the problem would be cured.

I think you're correct that when the CPU is trying to keep the engine from polluting and protecting the CAT from burning up, it's constantly making adjustments - creating the herky-jerky feel.


I am not getting a code for any faulty part and I know that CAT is very expensive - I'll try and find an inexpensive secondary O2 sensor and replace it and report back.

Thanks,
Mark
Just stickin my 2cts in. I find that the jerky behavior happens when the car wants to come off of lean burn. The transition should be smooth but maybe some combination of old O2 sensors or clogged cats causes the transition to be rough. I drive a piece of hwy where LB is very dependable to acquire. At almost the same physical location every time, I get the jerk. If I let it happen, in other words, keep my foot steady, the FCD will sharply drop to about 50 as the engine goes into purge. After 10-15 seconds, the jerk returns as the car makes a "forceful" return to LB, and the FCD jumps up to 80, 90 and higher. I've never really minded the jerk because it lets me know I'm either entering LB or coming off LB.
2000MT, 207K, 2021 8.0Ah BBee.
Wayne
 
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