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Discussion Starter #1
Please help!

I recently took the dead IMA pack out of my car and have been trying to run it gas only. Unfortunately, a brand new 12v battery is completely dead since it is not being charged. I have driven the car with the IMA bypass for about 80+ miles. I did everything this link said to do by prolongmpg:
prolongima.com/insight/removal/rembyp.HTML

I also followed the instructions on 99mpg.com to make the simple IMA bypass connectors. I am absolutely clueless as to why the 12v won't charge. I own a 2001 CVT Insight. If anyone could please give me advice I would greatly appreciate it. I have searched and searched on here and around the web but do not see a solution to my specific problem. Also something to note is I have a cigarette voltage meters that has gone down to 9volts on it's display. At this point the car won't start. I never run the car over 3800 rpms and have not had the battery light come on whatsoever. If someone helped me solve this problem I would even reimburse them for what a college student can. Thank you.
 

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I have attached a photo that most closely resembles the situation of my gutted IMA insight. The photo belongs to prolongmpg.com. I have two theories as to why it may not be working.

On the website ins instructions it says to unplug the BCM and MCM at various steps. I am not sure if I did these steps in the exact order but I do have the final results of what should be plugged in and unplugged.

Also in the very top left photo I have the cluster of smaller plugs unplugged. Again these plugs do not attach to the IMA battery but belong to the DC-DC converter i believe. Again just to be specific they are the little cluster of gray and blue plugs that plug in vertically. Does anyone know if these must be plugged in? I would try it myself quickly but my hatchback is all bolted up and I am at College away from home. Thank you for any advice anyone can offer up.
 

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Can you put your location in your profile before Willie finds out?
 

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I just added my location so hopefully it will show up on my profile. Do you have any advice on this issue by any chance?
 

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Unfortunately when I did my bypass the battery was still in the car, so I'm not sure. I unplugged the 2? connectors and it worked alright. If someone is in the area they may be able to stop by and help out, though.
 

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There are two DCDC enable signals. With the battery completely missing, the MCM (the computer you've left installed) is disabling the DCDC converter. So here's what to do:

Find the GRN/BLK wire that goes from the MCM to the DCDC converter. It's pin A27 on the MCM, and pin 6 on the DCDC connector. Here's a picture:
Wire.jpg

So now the DCDC converter should work.

But you can go one step further: You can now remove the MCM, too... you just need to manually connect the DCDC to the high voltage leads (which it looks like you've already done). The key here is that the MCM controls the relays that connect the high voltage leads to the DCDC (and HV battery, when installed). So as long as you've directly connected the DCDC (probably through a fuse), you no longer need the MCM computer.

You're still going to have check engine lights, but no IMA light because that's controlled by the MCM. If you don't want a check engine light - AND IF YOU'RE ONLY GOING TO DRIVE YOUR INSIGHT OFFROAD - then you can install an Arduino to spoof the MCM, as is shown in the youtube video I previously posted (and might or might not have recorded).
 

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....You can now remove the MCM, too... you just need to manually connect the DCDC to the high voltage leads (which it looks like you've already done). The key here is that the MCM controls the relays that connect the high voltage leads to the DCDC (and HV battery, when installed). So as long as you've directly connected the DCDC (probably through a fuse), you no longer need the MCM computer....
I'm trying to figure out if, when bypassing the IMA with battery removal, one needs to leave the MCM connected or not. Searching around IC, and reading Mudder's post above, it looks like the answer is "yes" - unless you cut the 'GRN/BLK wire'... In Hybrid Automotive's pack removal and bypass instructions, the final image shows the MCM in place, too. I gather that, without the MCM, the DC-DC will be disabled? Cut the GRN/BLK wire and then you can remove the MCM...

Can anyone confirm, please - before I just go out and do it?
 

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I don't know the answer, but here's how I'd figure it out.

-Disconnect BCM, double check 12V charging working with DMM.
-Disconnect MCM, double check 12V charging no longer working.
-Cut wire, check 12V changing working again.

I'd imagine you'd want the wire cutting to be reversible if not too trouble some, that would be my preference. Then if the wire cut doesn't work you can patch it back up, or reverse it later on for whatever reason.
 

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^Too late, I already did stuff. Pretty interesting, too...

Apparently you do need the MCM hooked up, but for strange reasons. I started with the normal pack bypass with no pack, MCM hooked-up. Worked more or less fine.

Then I wanted to see what difference the MCM made - so I unhooked it with the car still ON and running. The DCDC continued to charge, though a bit differently, such as slightly lower voltage. Interestingly, when I unhooked the MCM, the car kind of spazzed-out momentarily. I can't really describe it any better than that. It kind of sputtered for an instant, idle warbled around, and it's possible the engine got rougher... I heard various noises in the IPU area as I disconnected each connector. But the car still ran and the DCDC still charged...

Next I turned the car off and tried to restart it. I heard a kind of electrical whine/buzz each time I turned the key to position III, but it wouldn't start.

Then I hooked the MCM back up and it started fine. The first thing I noticed was that the HV contactor or whatever - that contactor sound you hear when you turn the key ON - came back, as in it wasn't there when I tried to start without the MCM connected but now it was... So it looks like you need the MCM connected to get the HV contactor or whatever to engage...

The other most notable thing in bypass mode was that the engine at idle was clearly more vibratory - so the IMA must be doing something with idle balancing with electric motor... It's also interesting to see/feel the difference turning the car OFF without the IMA in place: it's a shaky, rattly experience, kind of like the chug-a-chug-chug when you start the car off the 12V starter. The IMA system seems to do quite a bit to keep the car behaving correctly. Yet, it sure feels nimble and light without all those batteries and stuff...
 

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^Too late, I already did stuff. Pretty interesting, too...

Apparently you do need the MCM hooked up, but for strange reasons. I started with the normal pack bypass with no pack, MCM hooked-up. Worked more or less fine.

Then I wanted to see what difference the MCM made - so I unhooked it with the car still ON and running. The DCDC continued to charge, though a bit differently, such as slightly lower voltage. Interestingly, when I unhooked the MCM, the car kind of spazzed-out momentarily. I can't really describe it any better than that. It kind of sputtered for an instant, idle warbled around, and it's possible the engine got rougher... I heard various noises in the IPU area as I disconnected each connector. But the car still ran and the DCDC still charged...

Next I turned the car off and tried to restart it. I heard a kind of electrical whine/buzz each time I turned the key to position III, but it wouldn't start.

Then I hooked the MCM back up and it started fine. The first thing I noticed was that the HV contactor or whatever - that contactor sound you hear when you turn the key ON - came back, as in it wasn't there when I tried to start without the MCM connected but now it was... So it looks like you need the MCM connected to get the HV contactor or whatever to engage...

The other most notable thing in bypass mode was that the engine at idle was clearly more vibratory - so the IMA must be doing something with idle balancing with electric motor... It's also interesting to see/feel the difference turning the car OFF without the IMA in place: it's a shaky, rattly experience, kind of like the chug-a-chug-chug when you start the car off the 12V starter. The IMA system seems to do quite a bit to keep the car behaving correctly. Yet, it sure feels nimble and light without all those batteries and stuff...
I need help with this. I just bought two CVT Insight's with IMA lights. 03' w/ 220,000 miles and 04' w/ 115,000. I posted a thread recently about what I could do to get the cars home 3-4 hours away, and someone suggested the BCM/MCM wire cut method, but someone else claimed this doesn't work on CVT models. Im going to check them out tomorrow.
 

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Klr3cyl and I did the 2 wire method on my daughter's 2000 5spd. Worked fine, and is charging the 12 volt battery fine. The only difference was that we didn't cut the wires, we removed the pins from the connectors so it can go back to stock when/if needed. This required modifying a small flat blade screwdriver to release the tiny clips holding the wires in the connectors.

I have another (new to me) car that isn't charging the 12 volt, but I have no idea what's going on in the IMA area yet. When I start it, it super-briefly tries to use the IMA to start, then uses the 12 volt starter and runs fine. Previous owner reported dead 12 volts constantly, which makes sense since the dc-dc seems to be doing nothing. Going to try grid charge or bypass as soon as I have 2 spare seconds to go in there and disconnect it.

8/22/2017 Edit: Had a spare hour and curiosity, so I did the Mudder 2 wire bypass on Blue#3 and whalla! The DC-DC works fine and is now charging the 12 volt. I haven't tried resurrecting this pack yet, need to make another harness.
 

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I need help with this. I just bought two CVT Insight's with IMA lights. 03' w/ 220,000 miles and 04' w/ 115,000. I posted a thread recently about what I could do to get the cars home 3-4 hours away, and someone suggested the BCM/MCM wire cut method, but someone else claimed this doesn't work on CVT models. Im going to check them out tomorrow.
I think you misunderstood my comment in the other thread. The Calpod switch doesn't work on the CVT because there is no clutch. Option #3. The other solutions work the same as in a 5-speed. I'll also post in the other thread.

Sam
 

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If anyone can help me out here.

I have my IMA bypass on and disconnected the MCM and BCM. My car was charging without any issues for a week or so in this condition.

Then today I was driving and thought it was odd that when I revved the engine above 4K RPM the battery light didn't go on like it normally does. I didn't think much of it and thought maybe I didn't rev the car high enough and then forgot about it.

Later that day my battery died.

For some reason, my 12v battery is not charging. I am also not getting the battery or brake light error on my dash either.

I disconnected the 12v and plugged it back in to reset everything and that didn't fix anything.

I don't have the 20 amp fuse connected :(, but the car never blew the fuse in 17 years so I doubt that would have caused an issue.

Does anyone know why my DC/DC converter is not charging the 12v battery all of a sudden?

Is there anything recommended I can do to try and figure out why it is not charging or check?

Thanks.
 

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An idea just popped into my head, I unplugged all those connectors that are attached behind the the DC-DC converter because I am swapping in a lithium-ion battery.

I'm thinking maybe this had something to do with it? I completely removed the wire harness out of the car that attaches to the MCM and BCM and other places and also attaches behind the rear seat.

Would this be the reason why my brake battery light didn't come on and why my car is not charging?

Well I'll be really happy if this is the case because I'm of course thinking the worse here because I was running this with no fuse.
 

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If you removed the IMA wiring harness, then the DCDC isn't powered and certainly can't illuminate the battery/brake lights.
 

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If you removed the IMA wiring harness, then the DCDC isn't powered and certainly can't illuminate the battery/brake lights.
Thanks, that's good to know, I didn't think this harness did anything else but connect the MCM and BCM and especially since my car was charging without those two devices connected.

I even forgot I disconnected that harness.

This is good news as I can install it easily enough, I had to do a small modification to one of the wires so I removed the whole harness.
 
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