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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Everyone!

We have 2010 Honda Insight, 2 months ago battery started to behave weirdly and finally she died. I found out that this is her first battery! Replaced it with Bosch. 3 weeks she was fine, then she started not to crank sometimes. Battery is full, she is trying to crank making little sound... I checked forms, clean up ground cables jumped the ground cables. Once she is jump started she is ok that day sometimes couple of days... bosch service says battery ok.

Then while I was “ again” jump starting with the 2nd battery we always carry with her I accidentally found one of the headlight is not working, I checked the bulb, it is broken. I put the bulb back( to keep inside clean until new one comes) and remove the socket. After that she is fine. Problem solved. Replaced the bulb now other bulb is broken ( actually) it is loose a bit , she again did not start. Then i took out the socket she starts. Wife says she start to drive her with light auto -off and she starts every time. Bulbs are michiba-autolamp-h11-12-volt-55-watt-4800

I could not find anything similiar in the forms and it doesnot make any sense.... there is no logic...
 

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Welcome.
Are you sure there are no other lights on, like a map light? Those will stay on if you key off an can easily be missed when it isn't dark. If so the headlight issue is just coincidence.
I about killed my first battery with a map light (though it was already dying to begin with)...
Aftermarket alarm systems are notorious for causing problems too. An EX should have a factory alarm system anyway.

If you have an amp meter you can measure how much current the car draws when keyed off by removing one terminal from the battery while bridged by the amp meter. It should not be more than 20 mA.

My new 12V battery wasn't too good either, but I have it sorted by trickle feeding it through a solar panel: https://www.insightcentral.net/forums/honda-insight-forum-2nd-gen-discussion/99225-what-did-you-do-your-g2-insight-today-3.html#post1392289
 

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Thanks for your message, I will try to measure the amp she is drawing. But still my new battery is not dying. Battery is full and she is in good condition. She is just not cranking. Once the light are off ( not in auto mode) or if I plug out the socket behind the bulb she cranks and starts!

I am not car professional but I am quite handy and I built and fix-maintain my cars as hobby. This thing really sounds like lady reading OIL cap as 710...
 

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Maybe the lamp was shorting and the system detected that?

As long as the lady pours 710 OZMO in all is well. Some Honda garages have a big barrel of 'OEMS' and can hardly be convinced that the oil mentioned in the manual is better... ;)
 

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There is nothing simple about these cars. They are computers that happen to have engines. In a modern car, everything is interconnected. It is called CAN buss.
So, replace headlamps with those that are to spec (forget the wackos around here using all kinds of things they find on eBay and ruining their headlamp assemblies)

Do not use auto headlamp feature until the vehicle is whole.

Put your location in your profile.

I’ll try to let the anthropomorphic gender Pronoun of the vehicle go.
(Don’t you know Insights are trans?)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
:D I knew there is something wrong with her/him

She came with those bulbs from the previous owner. May be I shall replace them...

There is nothing simple about these cars. They are computers that happen to have engines. In a modern car, everything is interconnected. It is called CAN buss.
So, replace headlamps with those that are to spec (forget the wackos around here using all kinds of things they find on eBay and ruining their headlamp assemblies)

Do not use auto headlamp feature until the vehicle is whole.

Put your location in your profile.

I’ll try to let the anthropomorphic gender Pronoun of the vehicle go.
(Don’t you know Insights are trans?)
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
so, bulbs are replaced.

I also find out that if I crank her she makes some very small sounds and stops if I crank her by pumping gas she starts (hit the throttle as some says.... it is like my old carburated Jeep:confused:

so I have 2 ways, either to jump start her without hitting the gas pedal or pump the gas a bit... still does not make sense...
 

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Do you know that, when operating normally, the Insight does not engage the starter at all. The IMA motor does the starting. My wife has a 2010 with 140,000 miles on it and I have never heard the starter. Apparently folks who live in very cold places have had he starter work on very cold mornings. To start a modern car you don’t touch the gas pedal at all. I think your IMA battery is weak. It may recover once driven a lot. You might want to retest that new 12 volt battery. Also test for parasitic draw. Check every electrical connection.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
with in the weekdays my wife drives the car 13km forward and back, at the weekend Insight sleeps. Today she did not start at all without Jump starting but still 12v battery was fine. From the dashboard I can see that IMA battery was full.
 

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How did you determine that the 12V battery was "fine". Did you just measure the voltage? Always "LOAD TEST" a battery to see if it is up to par.
 

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If you need to jump start then the 12V battery is not fine at all.

One of the most common problems is one cell completely depleted, the other 5 full. Then the lights and radio work, but the voltage can be just too low to make the IMA control computer happy, so the IMA start does not work.
Then the starter motor will try to start, as a fallback for the IMA start, but it struggles as the voltage quickly drops below 8 Volt as the dead cell inverts when current is drawn from the battery.

You'd typically see all kinds of warnings on the square MID display on the dash in such a situation, as each system detects it malfunctions (due to low voltage) and throws it out on the MID.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The battery is 2 months old from Bosch installed by Bosch Service, I went there and they said it is ok but let me go there and push them once more..

Yesterday I called the Honda service and told them the story (in short) they said they cannot diagnose the problem but they can check the parts one by one ( like starter motor is functioning or not, battery is ok or not ), and Honda service itself told me better to call ANWB (this is the Royal Dutch Touring Club) road help and ask them to check and diagnose as they have better understanding of this kind of problems. I have been working with Japanese for almost 20 years, If I tell this to Honda Japan surely some people may resign the company. I am very disappointed and I did not make appointment with them.

Lets' see what Bosch will say.
 

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I think the local Honda service is trying to save you money, not blow you off. I like their idea of having a roadside assistance service test your battery. That would give you an impartial opinion. If you do go back to Bosch, make sure they load test the battery. As I have probably already said, you would not be the first person around here to have a bad brand new battery. I believe one of those folks was your fellow countrymen RedDevil. I remember it taking some serious convincing on his part to get whomever he bought it from to finally replace it.

If the battery is indeed fine, then you probably will have to have Honda run tests to figure out what is really going on. My bet, if not the battery, is a lose connection somewhere.
 

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Yup indeed.
My Honda dealer tested my old bad battery with a dedicated Honda battery tester while the engine was running !
Unsurprisingly it found that the battery that had left me stranded before, and almost again that same day, was in perfect condition...

It took a phone call to Honda Benelux to convince the dealership to retest the battery engine off. And hey presto, dead as a dodo. Got a new one under warranty.
Which was hardly any better. I can listen to the radio engine and lights off for 5 minutes, then the voltage drops rapidly towards and below 10 Volt.

I now have a small solar panel which seems to help a bit; it gently force charges the whole battery, the full cells bleed off the excess, but the bad cell picks up.
On a sunny day it briefly peeks above 12.0 Volt before dropping to 11.6 when I switch to On without starting. Before the panel it was anything between 10.8 and 11.4 Volt...

My brother in law recently got a new battery for his motorbike. Dead, right off the shelf. There are the occasional lemons around.

No guarantee it IS the battery that causes your problems. But the 12V battery is the singlemost weakest point of our cars, and it can cause a whole array of seemingly unrelated problems.
Voltage test your battery. Let the radio and the lights play for 10 minutes engine off (charger on the ready).
If it cannot do 10 minutes before the radio dies and errors appear, then that battery is a goner.

If the battery is fine after all go after the wiring for loose connectors, like Egads said, and damage. Wouldn't be the first Honda with chewed out cables; the insulation smells edible to rodents and like.
 

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Update on battery problem?

Yup indeed.
My Honda dealer tested my old bad battery with a dedicated Honda battery tester while the engine was running !
Unsurprisingly it found that the battery that had left me stranded before, and almost again that same day, was in perfect condition...

It took a phone call to Honda Benelux to convince the dealership to retest the battery engine off. And hey presto, dead as a dodo. Got a new one under warranty.
Which was hardly any better. I can listen to the radio engine and lights off for 5 minutes, then the voltage drops rapidly towards and below 10 Volt.

I now have a small solar panel which seems to help a bit; it gently force charges the whole battery, the full cells bleed off the excess, but the bad cell picks up.
On a sunny day it briefly peeks above 12.0 Volt before dropping to 11.6 when I switch to On without starting. Before the panel it was anything between 10.8 and 11.4 Volt...

My brother in law recently got a new battery for his motorbike. Dead, right off the shelf. There are the occasional lemons around.

No guarantee it IS the battery that causes your problems. But the 12V battery is the singlemost weakest point of our cars, and it can cause a whole array of seemingly unrelated problems.
Voltage test your battery. Let the radio and the lights play for 10 minutes engine off (charger on the ready).
If it cannot do 10 minutes before the radio dies and errors appear, then that battery is a goner.

If the battery is fine after all go after the wiring for loose connectors, like Egads said, and damage. Wouldn't be the first Honda with chewed out cables; the insulation smells edible to rodents and like.
Hi interested in knowing whether you determined the reason your battery etc was giving problems
 
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