[Drtye]

Check wiring connections, I had it happen once on mine, was just a loose wire that needed to be connected better.

Code works fine if you copy pasted the code in. If you made any edits to the code that could mess it up if you edited it without knowing what was being edited.

I had to make some tweaks to the code to compile into the nano every.

With all due respect, this isn't a coding error... my guess is that several hundred cars are using this code without issue. If the LED on the Arduino is turning on and off when the key is on, then the board is working properly, too. I'd go ahead and check your connections one more time.

You probably need to get an oscilloscope so you can 'see' the signals on each wire.

Again, not an issue with the code that you posted, had to tweak it.

The problem comes and goes and that also makes me think its more wiring than anything else, unless I have a bad board that does not always function as designed.

Today I resoldered all the connections and tidied up the actual wiring a bit. We will see on the way home!

 

[angel2010]

If the IMA battery light is still on, then either the MCM is still connected (it shouldn't be), or something is mis-wired. FYI: The MCM is the ONLY THING that can turn the IMA light on. If the CEL light is on, you need to read the codes to see what P____ errors the ECM is seeing. If the 12 volt system measures 18 volts, then something very wrong is going on... the DCDC cannot output voltages that high.

there is no mcm no ima light only cel and battery light on the adrino has a soild green light and a flashing yellow light

 

[apollos68]

hi insighters,
i am experiencing the same exact.
existing: no 144v, no bcm, no mcm, no bypass unit
error: 1607 n'd 12v batt light.
1. disconnecting the arduino 'wht/grn' (mine's connected) has what impact on the 'batt light.'
2. how to test dcdc charging 12V? (also possibly non functioning dcdc)
suggestions appreciated

 

[mudder]

1: WHT/GRN disconnected: DCDC outputs 14.x volts.
WHT/GRN shorted to ground: DCDC outputs 12.x volts.
WHT/GRN has nothing to do with P1607

2: If the DCDC is working, then you can disconnect your 12 volt car battery and the car electronics will stay on. If the electronics turn off when you disconnect the battery, then the DCDC isn't working. Another method: assuming WHT/GRN is disconnected, you should measure 14.x volts on any 12 volt line if the DCDC is working.

 

[apollos68]

thank you mudder for the specifics. if 'mudder,' you would inform me. (check the 12 v voltages (as you suggest) concluding this post)
1. those dcdc fuse panel how to test? (never looked into em ever) (attachment)
2. the 30amp fuse test?
3. cel errors after an 'arduino mod,' source form what..'under dash ecm, arduino or both?

 

[mudder]

The relays in the picture you attached don't matter after you remove the MCM... they're disconnected with the IMA bypass installed.

1: To test the 30 amp fuse, you'd set your multimeter to resistance and then touch one lead to each side. You should measure the same value as when you short the leads together (ideally 0 Ohms).
2: Not sure how this is different from question 1. Please elaborate.
3: If the CEL lamp is lit, then the ECM is the one showing it... ECM decides when to light the CEL. If the Arduino isn't connected properly, then the ECM will set CEL.

 

[apollos68]

hi mudder, t.y. for the follow up.
#2. yeah, covered.
....currently...
1. didnt dis my wht/grn, (kinda wanna keep pins contacting...for now perhaps after i resolve dcdc)
2. test of 12V batt...it posts 12.xx but upon disconnect, no electronics. (dcdc failure confirmed)
3. arduino voltages (havn't checked in over a year, nor driven vehicle) were : #5, 4.x; #6, 0.x;(will have to investigate that) #11, 4.x; #12, 4.x; #13,4.x;
and vin: 12.xx (seems 12V batt curr) and gnd: (blu/wh (with silver dots) and brn/yel (crimped together) (havn't tested for resistance)
final questions to resolution....
1. the dcdc male/female plugs have what voltages? 12.X? (voltage tracing) (wiring failure or component) (see pic)
2. gotta reconfirm 'arduino' voltages, and potential wiring compromise (wires male crimped pins to female arduino inputs as you can see, i don't mind soldering, crimping just provides flexibility) (see pic)
3. if replacement dc/dc is necessary, do you have an suggestion for the replacement specs?
t.y. mudder, highly valued
i really wanna drive my insight....without issue.

 

[mudder]

Note that the DCDC converter will work without the Arduino connected... All it needs is power in three places:
-HVDC connected to PDU (via thick white and black wires going into DCDC)
-12 volts connected to studs on DCDC
-12 volts connected to power DCDC's logic (via thin wires on DCDC wire harness)

So for now I'd ignore all the wires going to the Arduino. You'll get a CEL, but that's ok until you get the DCDC working.

The DCDC probably isn't broken... I've never seen one break. TDK Lambda designed it and it's quite robust. It's not impossible for it to break, but I'd triple check the above-mentioned wiring before you conclude the DCDC is broken.

From there, the Arduino is running if the onboard LED is slowly blinking... it's near pin13.

@retepsnikrep has found a 3rd party DCDC that works well. It also prevents the battery indicator from illuminating above 4krpm. If you can't find that thread via search, maybe Peter can post it.