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^ I'm thinking that disconnecting the outdoor air temp sensor, or replacing it with a resistor that spoofs a cold temp, is the thing to do or that's done to disable auto-stop.
 

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I think disconnecting the outside temperature sensor and leaving an open circuit will disable AutoStop. Shorting the leads or putting a resistor in place of the temperature sensor will enable AutoStop, even in freezing temperatures.
 

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^ Can't you choose a resistor value that mimics cold temps, though? On the other hand, if you can just remove the sensor and disable AS then there wouldn't be a point...
 

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The most fuel efficient way to disable autostop is to change the QBATT signal to "battery is empty". Natalya's forced autostop modification (which she sells here) could be modified to "force NO autostop" by changing a couple lines of code.
 

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The most fuel efficient way to disable autostop is to change the QBATT signal to "battery is empty".
Why would that be the case? If QBATT is low, wouldn't the car then be trying to charge the pack off the ICE all the time - with an mpg penalty? IF disconnecting the outdoor temp sensor does indeed disable autostop, why would there be a fuel economy penalty for that but not with using QBATT?
 

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The QBATT signal would only be set to "empty" when the conditions for autostop to occur existed... under normal conditions (i.e. when the ECM wants the engine to be on) QBATT would pass through as-is. I believe the problem with disconnecting the outdoor temp sensor is that the ECM trims the fuel more rich (i.e. limp-in/cold mode). If that's not the case, then yes, disconnecting the temp sensor would work.
 

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If you set QBATT low when the engine is running it will disable autostop......

But the car will then immediately start charging the IMA battery whilst idling/running unless it is already very very full and the BCM has set the RLF flag.

You may or may not want this increased engine load idle charging behaviour.
 

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The QBATT signal would only be set to "empty" when the conditions for autostop to occur existed... under normal conditions (i.e. when the ECM wants the engine to be on) QBATT would pass through as-is.
Ah, OK, that would make sense... Seems like it might be hard to...model the conditions for when AS should be occurring...

I believe the problem with disconnecting the outdoor temp sensor is that the ECM trims the fuel more rich (i.e. limp-in/cold mode). If that's not the case, then yes, disconnecting the temp sensor would work.
I'm under the impression that the outdoor air temp sensor goes directly to climate control and is only used for CC. I must have read that around here at some point, eons ago. But I don't know whether that's true first hand. It seems like it would be true, or rather, it seems like the ECM would rather use the intake air temp sensor and/or engine coolant temp for engine fuel trim, or whatever.
 

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Disconnect your outside air temp. sensor and see if the auto stop goes away.
 

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Found the answer in an old post (with picture): link

Disconnecting the connector to the ELD (Electrical Load Detector) seems to disable autostop.

I want autostop disabled on my Citrus (well, until I can get LiBCM) because the current IMA battery is so bad now that the car doesn't come out of autostop. I'm tired of constantly turning ECON on and then off at stoplights and was almost stranded yesterday.

Thank you @02insight.
 

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Here's a colored picture where it's easier to see the ELD (it's brown).

I just unplugged the white 3-wire connector (on top of the ELD), and confirmed that this disables autostop.

Motor vehicle Vehicle Electrical wiring Electronic engineering Auto part
 
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