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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
The three ground cables under the hood looked pretty sad so I upgraded them. I have some left over 1/0 welding cables from other projects so I used those. The welding cables are all copper, and yes, slightly heavier. I'll have to remove the 4th cable and see how it looks before I determine if I want to upgrade it.





 

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Yup, when/if I ever need to change mine, that's what I'll use. It makes terrific battery cables.

Highly recommended if you're handy (as most of us are) and can make them up yourself.
-Don
 

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2001 5S "Turbo"
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There is actually four.
Power steering rack/pinion to chassis.

HTH
Willie
 

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the 4th one does little to nothing, so i wouldn't lose any sleep over it. people just like to feel better about remembering that it exists.
 

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I need to do this badly.

Would it help with longevity if you also used copper ends, er uhh nut lugs or what ever they're called? Or would that not really matter being it's just getting bolted to a dis-similar metal anyways?
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I need to do this badly.

Would it help with longevity if you also used copper ends, er uhh nut lugs or what ever they're called? Or would that not really matter being it's just getting bolted to a dis-similar metal anyways?
I used tin plated copper terminal ends.

10 Lot 1/0 Ring 1/4" Hole Terminal Lug Tin Plated Copper Uninsulated AWG Gauge | eBay

You can get full copper if you like.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Lot-1-0-Ring-1-4-Hole-Terminal-Lug-Bare-Copper-Uninsulated-AWG-Gauge-/371153206383?hash=item566a747c6f:g:XsgAAOSwDk5UKZyW
 

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Nice. Any issues with the 1/0 stiffness on all but the battery ground?

Good news is you'll never have to deal with it again as long as you stay in AZ.
 

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all grounds and electrical component locations
[/url]https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1bLUyuFXWywH0PIzTXYtT6UprBNkOtjnWh5PFKjDFylA/pubhtml?gid=119037046&single=true
^^
Here's a mobile phone size formatted spreadsheet link showing all the grounds in the vehicle. Links pictures, and grounds distribution pdf from the repair manual. fwiw: Crisper photo's. :D
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fwiw: held for a year. I repaired my broken ground cable [surprising no CEL] by retwisting and recrimping the stock cable , cleaning terminal and connection etc .... and all was ok, until it let go like a guitar string breaking one day accelerating off a light from standing start in first gear. [fwiw: still no code]
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The rear motor mount was broken and the motor flexed the few remaining strands of wire by that point on the slightly shortened cable to the limit.
I got a Honda one for about $11cdn.
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Wondering is the 0/1 cable in the pic CCA copper coated aluminum?? [noting shiny parts in the cut view]
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Nice. Any issues with the 1/0 stiffness on all but the battery ground?
The welding cables are surprisingly soft.

Wondering is the 0/1 cable in the pic CCA copper coated aluminum?? [noting shiny parts in the cut view]
Mine are all copper.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/15-039-EXCELENE-1-0-WELDING-AND-BATTERY-CABLE-BLACK-USA-/181074818504?_trksid=p2047675.l2557&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&nma=true&si=CO0A5kWpXHzbZGr%2Fw8qMhnZeZao%3D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc
 

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That's cool, since you had the extra cable lying around. Way overkill, so no need for anybody to get excited and buy new welding cable just for this job. In normal operation the cables just pass a few amps, and even during cranking with the 12V starter, maybe 100 amps tops. I did mine with the lawn mower battery cables from the auto parts store, put a loop in them for vibration resistance, and they're doing fine 7 years later. The main problem with the original design is that the cables are too short for the amount of engine movement so the vibration constantly flexes the copper at the ends. And also the copper was exposed to corrosion.
 

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That's actually a really nice video, interesting, clearly explained. Thanks to Mudder for that and to AbCaRed for digging it out...
 
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