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Discussion Starter #1
Hello All - am looking for the Idle Relearn procedures - anyone have this?
 

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sure its easy, turn off all electrical stuff. Start the car and wait till the fan comes on, then wait ten more minutes and your done. Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Aw man, that's it?...I thought it would be a little more complicated like, jump up and down twice, hit the dash 3 times, honk the horn once, and drive around the block.

Well, guess I'll go out and start the car....

But don't I have to disconnect the negative battery terminal first? (before reconnection for start obviously.)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Insightful Trekker said:
Open the 12v circuit and you'll also get an IMA reset. ;)
This maybe one of the things I'm looking for!!! John - how do you open the 12V circuit?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
highwater said:
No......., its:
Key on, no start;
Fully depress accelerator 3x in 5sec;
Dash light will then flash 3x;
Then your done.......... :lol:
.....wait.........., that's oil change reset on GM :shock:

Randall
:D :D :D
 

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2hybrids said:
This maybe one of the things I'm looking for!!! John - how do you open the 12V circuit?
Ummm, now your "scaring" me a bit Richard. ;) Disconnect the 12v battery :?:


But the more elegant IMA reset proceedure is here:

http://www.insightcentral.net/encyclope ... orage.html

Functionally equivalent to a recal, its just "chosen" instead of a "happen". And its better MPG wise to plan a drive somewhere needed immediately following the reset. Just expect little or no IMA assist for the first few miles.

HTH! :) (but don't get hurt :p )
 

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Discussion Starter #9
oooooooohhhhhhhh...you mean disconnect the battery. Jeez, I was looking too deep into what you said.

Jeez man, I'm an idiot.

You are probably wondering if I need instructions taped to my dash just to start the car...

"remove key from pocket
Insert Key (labeled A) into Key Entry Point "ignition" (labeled B)
Keep key in Key Entry Point and Rotate Key toward the front of the car (away from you).
Let go.
See next instruction for vehicle operation." :lol:
 

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2hybrids said:
Jeez man, I'm an idiot.
I seriously doubt that. And welcome to the wonderful world of commumication limited to the written word. We do have unreasonable expectations of consistant understading in here. ;) Hope you understood my reply in jest. ( :p = razz )

But if you want to remove all doubt... simply "check" your 12v batteries water level tonight using a lighter to illuminate your view down one of the cell caps.

KABOOOOM

:p :p :p

I'm through now.

But the legal disclaimer must be included. ;)

If there's _any_ doubt in any readers mind that this will cause severe personal injury then I applaude you reading abilities. But have no doubts.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
only a lighter?...how 'bout a welding torch? :p

**another disclaimer**

I or no one else will be attempting or should even consider attempting the above procedure - it was purely a joke
 

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No no no, guys the correct procedure for the idle reset is as follows:

up, down, up, down, left, right, left, right, b, a, b, a, select, start.

Don't forget to change the automatic window motor fluid too ;)
 

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No no no, guys the correct procedure for the idle reset is as follows:

up, down, up, down, left, right, left, right, b, a, b, a, select, start.

;)
HMMM, and I thought that only worked on nintendo:D:D
Wow I feel old...:eek:
 

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Reason for needing to do Idle Relearn

Does anyone know why idle relearn is necessary after disconnection of the 12v battery?

If you don't bother doing it and just drive the Insight after reconnecting the 12v is one of the possible consequences the development of rough idle? Are there any other problems that not doing it could generate?

I have never bothered but perhaps I should have...
 

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I think the 'idle relearn' procedure/instructions are really meant more for the dealer mechanic, or just the mechanic, so that the car is fully ready to go when the owner comes back to drive home... Otherwise you just drive normally and the idle relearn happens...
 

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Honda Manual for a 2000 Insight I read says...

Engine Control Module: Service and Repair
ECM/PCM Idle Learn Procedure

ECM Idle Learn Procedure

The idle learn procedure must be done so that the ECM can learn the engine idle characteristics.

Do the idle learn procedure whenever you do any of these actions:
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Disconnect the battery.
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Replace the ECM or disconnect its connector.
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Reset the ECM.

NOTE: Erasing DTCs with Honda PGM Tester does require the idle learn procedure to be done again.
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Remove the No.18 (7.5 A) fuse from the under-dash fuse/relay box.
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Remove the No.2 (80 A) fuse from the under-hood fuse/relay box.
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Remove the PGM-FI main relay.
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Remove the battery wire from the under-hood fuse/relay box.
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Disconnect any of the connectors from the under-hood fuse/relay box.
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Disconnect the connector (C103, C502) between the dashboard wire harness and engine wire harness.
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Disconnect the G1 terminal from the transmission housing.
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Adjust the idle speed.
To complete the idle learn procedure do this:

1. Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio, rear defogger, lights, etc.) are turned off.

2. Start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 3,000 rpm with no load (in Park or neutral) until the radiator fan comes on, or the engine coolant temperature reaches 176 °F (80 °) - 221 °F (100 °).

3. Let the engine idle for about 5 minutes with the throttle fully closed and with all electrical items off.

NOTE: If the radiator fan comes on during this step, the time when it is operating must not be included in the 5 minutes

(Also Note, the manual doesn't say, but, cleaning the throttle body also requires this procedure to be done, perhaps new air filter change too)
(Another Note, wouldn't you also need to pull the EPS fuse if you are going to rev the car up for a period of time ?)
 

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No......., its:
Key on, no start;
Fully depress accelerator 3x in 5sec;
Dash light will then flash 3x;
Then your done.......... :lol:
.....wait.........., that's oil change reset on GM :shock:

Randall
I think it's, "Check the position of the stars, kill a chicken and walk three times sunwise around your car chanting: "Oh mighty Prince of Darkness protect your unworthy servant."

No ......... that's not it. That's the recommended procedure before taking on a repair of Lucas equipment.
 

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what book are you using? My '00 FSM dosent have that..
That said I see a few problems. How can the car start/run if the 80a fuse is removed, the batt wire removed from fuse box etc? The idle is set 2 ways. the set screw on the TB (shouldnt ever need to be messed with) and the IAC motor-which is a set paramiter of the ECM and adjusts based on rpm, load, map, temp, and who knows what else. A APPS (or drive by wire) system would need a re-learn, but we dont have that.
 

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what book are you using? My '00 FSM dosent have that..
That said I see a few problems. How can the car start/run if the 80a fuse is removed, the batt wire removed from fuse box etc?

You remove the battery cable or fuse for 10-20 seconds and then connect it back up. :rolleyes:

The idle is set 2 ways. the set screw on the TB (shouldnt ever need to be messed with) and the IAC motor-which is a set paramiter of the ECM and adjusts based on rpm, load, map, temp, and who knows what else. A APPS (or drive by wire) system would need a re-learn, but we dont have that.
The hex headed throttle stop screw shouldn't normally be changed because it also sets the TPS sensor idle output voltage [0.48 volt].

There is a rubber plug covered [what I call] "idle air bleed" adjustment which you can use to change the idle rpm. My car was idling at 1200 rpm when I bought it and the air bleed allowed me to reset the idle to 900 rpm. I had to turn the screw until it was fully closed to get 900 rpm. I ran the car over a year that way with no problem. Just recently I tweaked the throttle stop screw very slightly so I could have a small amount of adjustment with the air bleed adjustment since my TPS sensor reading was a little high at 0.51 volt anyway.

The throttle stop screw adjustment is very coarse and has a big affect on the TPS sensor voltage. It is just about impossible to have the set screw stay exactly where you need it to be while tightening the lock nut.

I finally made a thin walled box end 7 mm wrench to fit the lock nut to use while holding the adjustment screw exactly in place with an Allen wrench as I tightened the nut.

I have never done the 5 minute idle adjustment after pulling various fuses or the 12v battery cable and the car seems to run fine.
 
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