There's currently an active thread on this very thing:
http://www.insightcentral.net/forum...en-discussion/107497-adding-alternator-8.html
http://www.insightcentral.net/forum...en-discussion/107497-adding-alternator-8.html
IMA ac voltage output, and possible charging system modifications
Hey guys, I am carefully considering getting rid of the entire hybrid battery pack and electronics components out of my insight and using the IMA motor as a "Permanent Magnet Alternator", however I was unsure how to design the rectification and regulation circuits of if off the shelf components would work as I do not currently know what the AC output is from our IMA motors at idle and redline. Has anyone measured the voltage output before? if so, please share!
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Hey (presumably) Michael,
The simplest way to do this is to reuse the existing IGBT driver and OEM DCDC converter... you already have all the parts you need back in the IMA bay. I recommend watching this youtube video for a primer:
If you still want to remove more volume, rip out the fan, throw out the outer aluminum casing and the IGBT pre-driver PCB (inside the PDU)... you can probably also remove the entire magnesium casing, as long as you don't pull too much current through the DCDC converter. Alas, the heat sinks shouldn't be removed, as that'll certainly guarantee overheating.
I'm not too far from you (Chattanooga, TN), but I am typically VERY busy. However, I have a soft spot for crazy G1 mods, and can probably fit you in my schedule. Do note that I'm a full-time consultant, and thus charge for my time (except at InsightFest meetups). PM me for more details if you're interested.
The simplest way to do this is to reuse the existing IGBT driver and OEM DCDC converter... you already have all the parts you need back in the IMA bay. I recommend watching this youtube video for a primer:
If you still want to remove more volume, rip out the fan, throw out the outer aluminum casing and the IGBT pre-driver PCB (inside the PDU)... you can probably also remove the entire magnesium casing, as long as you don't pull too much current through the DCDC converter. Alas, the heat sinks shouldn't be removed, as that'll certainly guarantee overheating.
I'm not too far from you (Chattanooga, TN), but I am typically VERY busy. However, I have a soft spot for crazy G1 mods, and can probably fit you in my schedule. Do note that I'm a full-time consultant, and thus charge for my time (except at InsightFest meetups). PM me for more details if you're interested.
Mudder,
That's some awesome stuff! I am interested in that, however for maximum weight reduction and cost effectiveness I may sell all of the OEM components and go with a motorcycle regulator rectifier. I know I'd need one (or two) from a touring bike with a large watt output, but I need to confirm the insight stator volts first. I am wondering what's the easiest way to access the leads from the "stator", I can see some under the airbox, but if I use those I have to run without the airbox for the duration of my testing
That's some awesome stuff! I am interested in that, however for maximum weight reduction and cost effectiveness I may sell all of the OEM components and go with a motorcycle regulator rectifier. I know I'd need one (or two) from a touring bike with a large watt output, but I need to confirm the insight stator volts first. I am wondering what's the easiest way to access the leads from the "stator", I can see some under the airbox, but if I use those I have to run without the airbox for the duration of my testing
I think your might be on the wrong track with the motorcycle regulator thingy.
The IMA motor puts out between 50-320V DC when rectified and smoothed.
So prob about 40-250v AC or so..
The alternator thread mentioned also shows a method which uses the stock IMA motor, a meanwell power supply and the 3 phase rectifier, which which when combined with the ecm fooler gets rid of all the heavy stuff in the back..
I suggest for simplicity put your solution in the back and use the oem wires available.
That way you can always put the ima stuff back in again easily later..
The IMA motor puts out between 50-320V DC when rectified and smoothed.
So prob about 40-250v AC or so..
The alternator thread mentioned also shows a method which uses the stock IMA motor, a meanwell power supply and the 3 phase rectifier, which which when combined with the ecm fooler gets rid of all the heavy stuff in the back..
I suggest for simplicity put your solution in the back and use the oem wires available.
That way you can always put the ima stuff back in again easily later..
Thanks for the heads up! A motorcycle stator generally only puts out 20 volts at idle, and 70 or so at 5000 RPM, so it seems the IMA motor is not suited to a motorcycle regulator rectifier.I think your might be on the wrong track with the motorcycle regulator thingy.
The IMA motor puts out between 50-320V DC when rectified and smoothed.
So prob about 40-250v AC or so..
The alternator thread mentioned also shows a method which uses the stock IMA motor, a meanwell power supply and the 3 phase rectifier, which which when combined with the ecm fooler gets rid of all the heavy stuff in the back..
I suggest for simplicity put your solution in the back and use the oem wires available.
That way you can always put the ima stuff back in again easily later..
I didn't carefully read the alternator thread because I saw a few posts where they were strictly discussing adding an alternator and lost interest. I'll peruse it more closely now that I know that there's some info relevant to what I want to do in there. Thanks for the tip!
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