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Discussion Starter #1
Problems with my 2000 Honda Insight..

I finely almost bought a reconditioned battery but then decided to do it myself… All the sticks were in great shape and in the end I was happy with the results…
I’ve reconditioned the IMA battery and it shows 155.5 Vdc..

After reconditioning I test drove it with wonderful results.. However near the end of the test I noticed the battery was not recharging so I made for my shop and arrived with an empty battery… I plugged in my charger and it read 230 Vdc… So that means I’m not connected to the battery.. Unplugging and replugging the charger I heard relays, clicking and such coming maybe from the component side of the battery and after about 20-30 seconds a click around the DC to DC CONVERTER…
Also the dash tells me the battery is flat… reading the true voltage of the battery I see 155.5Vdc….. So I’ve lost a computer and or relay some where….

I’m hoping you might be able to point me in a direction….

Thanks for time…. Christopher John
 

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Chris, you can get the codes free by driving the car to an autozone, O'Reilly's, etc. Most autoparts stores will read them for you. As S. Keith says, it is just guessing without codes.
 

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....I plugged in my charger and it read 230 Vdc… So that means I’m not connected to the battery.. Unplugging and replugging the charger I heard relays, clicking and such coming maybe from the component side of the battery and after about 20-30 seconds a click around the DC to DC CONVERTER…
Were you driving with the charger still plugged into the car harness? Was the key on when you were unplugging and replugging the charger? In general you shouldn't be hearing anything when you do this, key ON or not, though if the key were ON you'd be more likely to hear something, something anomalous... In any event, the charger shouldn't be attached to the car when you're using the car, and in general one usually doesn't have the key ON when grid charging. If either of these was the case for you I think you risk a high voltage short, a P1444 code, something like that, such as if the grid charger by design isn't properly isolated...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
eq1
NO, I always unplug and remove charger before operating the car.. and no the key wasn't on when I plugged and unplugged the charger... Though I did start the engine one time while charging I think several months back when I was still learning about it... I've contacted the person selling these chargers but have not heard back from him....I guess that in it's self could be bad news...
Also I now have a P 1449 code which concerns the fan.... Thanks for the input...
 

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hmm, I don't see how it's possible to have active IMA components - i.e. hearing clicking like relays - when you grid charge, key OFF, unless the charger harness is connected to the wrong places. I don't know the system well enough to say where those wrong places could possibly be... Might be worth checking your charger harness though...

On P1449-72, I don't think I've ever seen anyone actually report that one; the 4 thermistors have to average 176 degrees F or higher for that to trigger, which is way hotter than normal...

The P116X ones are A/F sensor related, so not germane to charging problems...
 

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OK We are still shooting in the dark a bit. But..

Don't plug your charger in again until we have diagnosed the Ima/battery related codes.

Reset the system by pulling the 12v battery earth lead for 30 seconds.

Reconnect and start the car, let it idle for 5 minutes minutes.

Does it start with the IMA (instant) or back up 12v (standard) starter?

Do you get some green regen bars immediately you start it, and then a then yellow SOC bars creeping upwards on the gauge after a few minutes?

Has the IMA or CEL light come on? If it has read the codes again and report back..
 

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Discussion Starter #11
ok no charger..

I did the reset through the 12Vdc battery... Idled the engine for five minutes, how ever after one minute of idling the charge stopped as it has been doing and the IMA dash lamp lit... after five full minutes stopped engine and pulled codes...
P1162
P1576
P1449
P1166
 

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OK lets ignore 1162 & 1166 for now as they are ECM related.

OK please now confirm the IMA blink codes.

Video the blinking so we can double check it..

You should have two minimum...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Blink Codes

Learning new laptop, but now here it is...

I just pulled P1162 and P1576
I got blink code 12 on the IMA lamp and 22,23 on the EPS lamp..

Well crap now I can't get the video to this sight... Brain fried for now.... more later....
 

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DTC P1576 (12): Motor Drive Module (MDM) Voltage Problem

General Description
To avoid an increase or a decrease in motor output caused by the voltage sensor malfunctioning, it is necessary to compare voltage transmitted from the BCM (battery condition monitor) module with the MDM (motor driver module) voltage. If the difference between them is more than a set value for a specified time period or longer, a malfunction is detected and a DTC is stored.

Malfunction Threshold
The VPIN (PDU voltage) minus the VES (high battery sensor voltage) equals 10 V or more for at least 2 seconds.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Blink codes

when I'm trouble shooting and the shop manual tells me to reset MCM or reset what ever and then to turn the key on to II, am I shorting to pull blink codes to read DTC codes?
I'm asking because I'm three miles from the insight right now and it just crossed my mind why the manual is asking about the DTC code.....
If thats the case I'll do this trouble shooting tomorrow.... and if I'm told to substitute a good MCM or what ever then I'll just have to order one from eBay to see if the symptom goes away... if they don't go away I'll have a spare....

But yes are they doing the blink code test....and Thank You for the effort you are putting forth.....
 

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It's time to measure the BCM voltage taps with a multimeter for the ten stick pair voltages.

Post them here.
 

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^ Yeah, that's ... terrible.

I was gonna post this somewhere else, but I might as well post this here so you can get an idea of just what 'resolution' you need when diagnosing tap voltages. I mentioned yesterday elsewhere that my BCM/MCM are spazzing-out, or my pack has a bonafide problem. I didn't think it was a real problem, but today I had to break things down. Indeed, it is a real problem, one cell. So look at these numbers...

I got a neg recal, tried to do some extra discharging in auto stop, but that wasn't panning out. Measured tap voltages and they were (divide by 100):
1516,1513,1516,1518,1512,1512,1507,1514,1510,1509, min 15.07V, max 15.18V

I put a 40W or 75W bulb on the pack to discharge and these were the tap voltages:
1512,1509,1511,1513,1507,1507,1452,1507,1504,1502, min 14.52V, max 15.13V.

Obviously, 14.52V is the culprit. And that tap has one of the sticks with a cell or cells that were questionable when I built the pack... So I broke the pack apart, pulled the two sticks for that low tap, and measured cell voltages for the stick (S57) that I knew had some questionable cells. Here are the cell voltages, in mV:
1267,1204,1267,1268,1270,1266

Cell 2, at 1.204V, is the dud... It had slightly higher self discharge when I built the pack a year ago and, unfortunately, it never fixed itself... My problems surfaced a few weeks ago when the car sat for 3 weeks. Oddly, I grid charged the pack after that but it didn't fix things...

So just looking at tap voltages not under load, the spread was 'only' 0.11 volt. Yet knowing what I know about the build and breaking things apart, we see that there's obviously a bad cell ruining the pack. And, the thing is, if this pack wasn't drained and at the neg recal point already, the spread would probably be even less and a load wouldn't drag that one tap low. In other words, it's very difficult to get a good read on voltage taps...
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I've pulled the IMA and will begin the charge cycles as so I do more reading.. I didn't have good enough info before concerning minimum and maximums for the charge discharge cycles and tolerances so once I find them I'll go through process again and hopefully with a more positive end game... Any threads or info would be greatly appreciated....
 
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