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Yesterday afternoon (1:00) I drove about a block just fine and I approached a red light and noticed I wasn't slowing down like I should (no regen braking), the light turned green and it was very difficult to accelerate. I immediately noticed the Check Engine and IMA lights were on, and the SOC was zero (even on a recall or full discharge it always shows at least one bar). I pulled over and shut the car off, let it sit a few minutes and tried to start it again, I had to hold the key a few seconds while I heard the 12V starter running (sounded like a civic trying to start). I went straight to the nearest dealer, of course I didn't have an appointment so I waited for hours. Finally they got around to looking at it, hooked the computer up and got a code (don't remember what code #) and they had to call Honda Tech Line to get more troubleshooting information. They told him to check a 100A fuse that is located at the bottom of the IMA Pack basically below the switch. He said it did not have continuity so it had failed. Honda Tech Line told him they have seen it happen a few times but is not common, but they say it is filled with sand which can vibrate or leak out and somehow cause the filament to break. They are charging me $85 for diagnostics, plus part & labor comes out to over $400. Of course there isn't a fuse in Salt Lake City, so they have to overnight one from Oregon (I think?) and have my car ready by Tuesday, if Oregon doesn't have one then it will take at least until Wednesday assuming that a new fuse resolves the problem.

I just had the pack replace in Sep '04... and the night before this happened I got the oil changed. The people at the Honda dealer were complete idiots. A young guy was the service writer... stupid as a rock. The mechanic was either just as stupid or he was just careless. I asked how much they charge for the oil change and he tells me "$27.99"... so I asked him "for this car???". He had to go check with someone else and came back "we charge $20 extra for hybrids but we'll only do $12 extra on this one". My reply... "$40 for an oil change? I remember paying about $32 or so in Texas. Does it include an inspection or whatever?" and he said "yeah, they check the axles, transmission, tires, exhaust, air filters..." so I just let them do it. I told him I wanted to be able to watch my car, he gave me the insurance crap and was hesitant but he let me stand at the end of the hallway that goes into the shop. I watched his every move. He topped off the washer fluid, lifted the car, pulled the drain plug and filter, checked the tires, put new oil filter and plug on, lowered the car, filled the oil, started the engine, checked oil, then drove it around front and parked it. I told the cashier girl that I wanted to talk to a manager or someone about it because I didn't think they did the inspection included with an oil change. She noticed that they hadn't filled out a checklist for the inspection and told the service writer, 10 minutes later he gave me a checklist that was obvious he had the mechanic just check "good" all the way down the list and all 4 tire pressures were marked 32. I complained how they had made it up, there was no way he checked the air filter, cabin filter, and at least 30 other things on the list without me knowing about it and I was sure to tell them that if thats what the idiot actually set my tires to then its wrong. I told them it doesn't take half a brain to know that the pressure specs are in the door jamb. They were trying to close and "the mechanics already left" while I waited forever to straighten things out. They wanted me to come back the next day to have it all redone and they dropped the charge from $42.xx to $17.05. I demanded that they fix the tire pressure before I leave and I'll come back for the rest. The acting manager (real manager wasn't there) checked the tires himself and found them randomly around 34-36 psi and I religously stop at Discount tire and have them checked and set to 38 front 35 rear. Anyway, does anyone think its possible that my car was sabotaged in any way, or was it just coincidence that my IMA failed the next day? I should have just agreed to come back the next day and go total my car, blame it on improper tire performance due to incorrect pressure and sue them over it.

(sorry for the long post, hopefully good information for others in the future)

 

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Don't see how such could be sabotaged.

But I'd check for any visible damage to the orange main IMA wire harness.

Nor do I see why it should cost $400. You've got the location in the pic. DIY :!: :) Yes, its an expensive part and $85 for diagnosis was a bit to spend but if I were you then I'd cut my losses.

HTH! :)
 

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There's no way they could have sabatoged the fuse. First it takes a good 20 min to get the magic box even open, and there's no access from underneath. I'd also suggest just cutting your losses and do it yourself. Of course you didn't meniton how many miles you have, if your under 80K I'd say this should be covered under IMA warranty.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I don't know how they could have sabotaged it, I was just very suspicous of it. The only thing I can think of is that they may have been able to quickly short some easily accessable wires to blow the fuse...? Oh yeah, I have about 83,300 miles... just out of the warranty... what luck. I don't think it's much of a "Do-It-Yourself" project... the fuse is all the way at the bottom of the pack, I didn't actually get my head down in there to see it but I saw that grey cap off that goes to the fuse where he tested it and the IMA pack itself will have to be partially disassembled to get to it. He did mention that the pack being turned off for a few days should discharge the capacitors in the controllers next to the battery to make it safer but still, I just want it fixed. I think it should be covered by Honda being that it is a defective part and they admitted to it, and that my pack had been replaced with basically a defective one. I have an aftermarket warranty (5 year 100K mile since Jan '03 and 56K) I need to check and see if they will cover any of it at all or possibly even all of it, but I seriously doubt it.
 

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The main 100A IMA fuse mounts on the junction board which then attaches to the IMA battery case. Its unclear whether or not a replacement pack comes with this sub component pre-installed. SM p.g. 12-22.

It's not a nip from the capacitors the would concern me. It's the IMA battery pack voltage. :shock: (Ha :!: A line where the "shocked" smilie precisely applies). There are a few spots on the junction board that are still "hot" between each other even after the main breaker is off. But for what their wanting for this repair you could buy all the materials (SM, ETM and tools) and still come out cheaper by $100+. For me that answers the question. ;)

AFAI remember pricing on one of the Honda web parts suppliers the fuse was around $50.

HTH! :)
 
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