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Hello everyone. I purchased my 2004 Gen1 Insight about a month ago with a bad IMA battery. I purchased a grid charger and got the lights to stay off for about 2 days to pass smog until they came back on. The code I was getting was a P1449 flash code 78. After taking the IMA battery apart and realizing that most of my sticks are bad I ordered all 20 reconditioned ones from eBay. After installing my IMA is working awesome until the battery goes down approximately 1 or 2 bars and the car needs to charge it back up. As soon as it attempts to regen it immediately sets off the check engine light and IMA light with the same P1449 and flash 78 code again. I have grid charged my rebuilt battery for 24 hours but lights come back on but as soon as I use up 1 or 2 bars and the car needs to charge. Then the light immediately comes back on as soon as 1 green charge bar lights up. Im pretty confused at the moment with this car and would like some help. Thank You

Dalton.
 

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first i'd check your ground straps, then i'd check your tap voltages.

don't put too much reliance on reconditioned sticks, they could be 10+ year old cells that have merely been through a few charge and discharge cycles that can become imbalanced quickly. or one may have a dead cell that is causing the pack to drop out, like mine did when i had a single bad cell in the pack.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Which ground straps are you referring too? Also when checking the voltage taps how much voltage can they be off by?
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Thanks for that link. Anyway, I checked all the ground straps (took them off and checked resistance) and they are all good. But I think I found my problem. I checked the voltage taps and I have aprox 16.41v across the board until I get to one set that is 16.01v. So I have 1 or 2 bad sticks. Im going to go through my old sticks and see If I can get 1 or 2 of them with higher voltage and change them out and report back. Thank You
 

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0.4V resting means it's going to be worse under load.

Don't necessarily pick the highest voltage stick. Try to find the outliers, high and low, and discard them. Take the group that seem to be in common and then check them on a CELL level by piercing the shrink with your probes. Pick the stick with the smallest deviation between cells.

Of course, if the highest voltage stick has tight per-cell voltages, it may be the one to use.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok, So I found 1 stick that was in the low 7v's So I replaced it with one of my old sticks that was just as you say, Higher voltage and good balance between cells. I have it all back together and drove about 60 miles and it is working awesome! No lights and good assist! The only thing is that when i ran the battery almost all the way down and the car is charging it up I can't get it to climb past 1/2 way. So tonight I'm going to let it sit on the grid charger and tomorrow see if it will complete a full charge cycle. Thanks for your help!
 

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Don't sweat the SoC gauge. It will sort itself out as the car iterates on the computation. Focus on the performance and economy.

Grid charging is a good idea.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The IMA light is back! My voltage taps are all within .2 of each other. The strange thing Is when the IMA light came on it was about 90 degrees. The car seems to work perfectly at night when it is 70 degrees. The other thing is when it throws the IMA light is also throws the same P1449 blink 78 or 68 but I think its 78 code. Anyone have a clue whats wrong?
 

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Bad/weak stick.

0.2V resting is not confirmation of good. Resting can only confirm bad, i.e., if you have a big spread at rest, highly likely you have a failed or failing cell.

If you were to monitor them under load, you'd likely see a much larger variance.

Posts #6 applies again, except substitute 0.2V for 0.4V
 
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