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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'm sure this has been covered before, but I'm not finding it...

My IMA indicator came on last week, so I used a generic OBD2 reader and the only code reported was P1420 (need new catalytic converter); nothing to do with IMA. Drives just as always. This is a 2002MT with 210K miles.

Should I just keep an eye on it? I see talk of resetting - is this helpful? will it do it itself? From what I read on here, it looks like she won't just die one day.

Thanks for you patience with a rookie,

Rick

Was thinking about this after I posted - The IMA indicator came on on my first commute to work after 13 days of the car being parked in the garage. Is there a reason to consider one of these Grid Chargers that I'm reading about?
 

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I'm sure this has been covered before, but I'm not finding it...

My IMA indicator came on last week, so I used a generic OBD2 reader and the only code reported was P1420 (need new catalytic converter); nothing to do with IMA. Drives just as always. This is a 2002MT with 210K miles.

Should I just keep an eye on it? I see talk of resetting - is this helpful? will it do it itself? From what I read on here, it looks like she won't just die one day.

Thanks for you patience with a rookie,

Rick

Was thinking about this after I posted - The IMA indicator came on on my first commute to work after 13 days of the car being parked in the garage. Is there a reason to consider one of these Grid Chargers that I'm reading about?
There is another code in there somewhere. Try the reader at your local Autozone.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The shop manual talks about using the HDS (a Honda diagnostic tool, I assume) to jump the SCS line (Don't have any idea what that is) when connecting to the DLC. Maybe this is why I can't get to the IMA diagnostic codes. Will try Autozone on your recommendation.
Thanks,

Rick
 

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Discussion Starter #4
So, I went to Autozone and got a diagnostic code of P1449. I had to drop by Honda for an unrelated issue (the iffy low-beam headlights - again) and they suggested that I "probably need a new IMA battery module", but would need time to dig into the battery pack for more diagnosis as to which modules might also need to be replaced. They quoted me $2K for the battery pack without installation and whatever modules they find are defective.

In the meantime my formerly normally operating Insight, even with the IMA light on, has transitioned to one that does not assist, does not charge, and the battery charge indicator is always topped off. Seems to me that my commute is relatively flat and I don't find the lack of battery assist that annoying, so can just keep driving the way she is, no?

The fact that this transition has happened overnight (literally) leads me to think that maybe a module might be defective and replacing that module would allow me to limp along for awhile with the existing battery pack?

Thanks for any input,

Rick
 

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So, I went to Autozone and got a diagnostic code of P1449. I had to drop by Honda for an unrelated issue (the iffy low-beam headlights - again) and they suggested that I "probably need a new IMA battery module", but would need time to dig into the battery pack for more diagnosis as to which modules might also need to be replaced. They quoted me $2K for the battery pack without installation and whatever modules they find are defective.
P1449 is a failure of one or more cells inside the battery module itself. The $2K figure they quoted you is without the $600 shipping charge and they will hit you up for a BCM at $800 (a BCM that you do not need).


The fact that this transition has happened overnight (literally) leads me to think that maybe a module might be defective and replacing that module would allow me to limp along for awhile with the existing battery pack?
The fact that you've lost assist suggests that your P1449 is an overheat. As soon as it detected the failure it shut down assist and regen to protect the battery from thermal overload (ie catching fire).

We can fix it for $1250 or less plus shipping (reasonably priced UPS ground shipping).
 

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Try reseting it by disconnecting 12 volt battery and see how it acts you should get back your assist. If the IMA light and check engine lite continues to come on you have a real problem. For over heating problem you may also want to make sure your vent behind the passenger seat isnt blocked I have had that happen several times. one thing i must comment on here is from following some posts many owners seem to carry a misconception that the IMA light is a death sentence it isnt always so, if you use a cheap generic code reader they will generally not pick up a true IMA related code due to reader not being programed to do such. People this car is amazing but its not as complicated as some make it out ot be.
 

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Ecfool;
Bingo...I agree. Most people think the IMA is the secret to MPG. Well folks it ain't. It's driveing style that is the secret. Ask the hypermilers.!

My opinion

Willie
 

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Try reseting it by disconnecting 12 volt battery and see how it acts you should get back your assist. If the IMA light and check engine lite continues to come on you have a real problem. For over heating problem you may also want to make sure your vent behind the passenger seat isnt blocked I have had that happen several times.
No, a blocked intake port will cause a P1448 error. He has a problem in the module. Resetting it will only clear it until the car detects the problem again.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I disconnected the 12V battery and sure enough the IMA light went away and I now have charge/assist activity. I know I'm facing IMA battery pack issues and have contacted Ron to get the procedures for removal/installation of the battery pack to see if this is something I can do.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
OK, so after 24hrs the IMA light (and the check engine light) are back on and I again have no assist/charge activity. I'm still seeing 62mpg in winter weather - do I damage anything by just driving her as she is?
 

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OK, so after 24hrs the IMA light (and the check engine light) are back on and I again have no assist/charge activity. I'm still seeing 62mpg in winter weather - do I damage anything by just driving her as she is?
It is possible because as you continue to draw from a weak pack you are pulling down and pushing up sticks that aren't damaged yet through what is likely an inbalance inside the pack and it is possible that you will shorten the life of sticks that would otherwise remain in better shape. If you are planning on repairing that pack through hybrid-battery-repair.com, the price goes up if more sticks require replacement.

Can you keep driving it? sure. ...the question is for how long and whether or not you'll pay more to fix it later. It's hard to be 100% certain. From talking with someone local who had a diminishing pack that ended up with an IMA light, once the pack starts going south, it takes a pretty quick dive. If it was my pack, I'd remediate it as soon as I know there is an issue and am able to do something about it. It's up to you.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
It is possible because as you continue to draw from a weak pack you are pulling down and pushing up sticks that aren't damaged yet through what is likely an inbalance inside the pack and it is possible that you will shorten the life of sticks that would otherwise remain in better shape. If you are planning on repairing that pack through hybrid-battery-repair.com, the price goes up if more sticks require replacement.

Can you keep driving it? sure. ...the question is for how long and whether or not you'll pay more to fix it later. It's hard to be 100% certain. From talking with someone local who had a diminishing pack that ended up with an IMA light, once the pack starts going south, it takes a pretty quick dive. If it was my pack, I'd remediate it as soon as I know there is an issue and am able to do something about it. It's up to you.
It appears to me that the battery pack is not playing whatsoever - no assist/ no charge. Ron's theory is that the P1449 indicates that the BCM has detected a cell overheat and has shut down any interaction with the battery pack at all. So I am thinking I can just drive her as she is and the battery pack is just sitting there acting like dead weight, i.e. I should not be affecting the condition of the battery pack in any way. I can live with this vs some number of thousands of dollars to repair. Or, of course I could do as the Honda service department suggests, trade it in on a new Honda!
 

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"Trade it in on a new Honda!"

Sounds like terrible advice from Honda's service department to spend a tremendous amount of money replacing a car with one that drinks more fuel, will rust out, and possibly be less reliable depending on the model chosen.

I could never do that, there are only a small handful of Honda's that I would be willing to own.
They are the following:
Honda N600, but more as a fun car and not as a daily driver as even a minor crash would probably kill me.
Honda CRX HF, my uncle had one of these and consistently got around 60MPG with it in decent weather and is very impressed with my car. They are incredibly hard to find and most are rusted out or otherwise not on the road due to crashed or modification such as swapping out the engine, defeating the point of owning an HF, IMHO.
Honda Civic VX, The latest model other than the Insight that I'd want to own and its a fairly late model and might not be as impossible to find and the chances are decent that it isn't halfway rotten with rust by now.
Honda Insight, The only car that I can afford that won't have a body that is disintegrating with rust by the time I'm done with it. The most fuel efficient mass produced gasoline vehicle ever created.

At this point there is no other car I'd rather commute with.

...but if I got a new car, I'd wait until 2012 when it seems that pretty much all of the auto manufacturers will be offering electric vehicles. If I wasn't interested in an EV, I'd be all over another 1st Insight, no question about it. Then again, I don't buy new cars.

If I had to buy a new Honda today, I suppose I'd go with the Fit, seems to be the lightest car that Honda has(I think) and best gas mileage without going with a 2nd Gen Insight or a CRZ and seems plenty of fun to drive too. I couldn't stomach driving a CRZ after driving an Insight.
 

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No, a blocked intake port will cause a P1448 error. He has a problem in the module. Resetting it will only clear it until the car detects the problem again.
i have a p1448 suddenly could you elaborate what a blocked intake port is(how to fix it eg) I have no clue where to look at thanks is it one of the vents?

I also wondering: does the IMA fan run all the time???
 

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It appears to me that the battery pack is not playing whatsoever - no assist/ no charge. Ron's theory is that the P1449 indicates that the BCM has detected a cell overheat and has shut down any interaction with the battery pack at all. So I am thinking I can just drive her as she is and the battery pack is just sitting there acting like dead weight, i.e. I should not be affecting the condition of the battery pack in any way. I can live with this vs some number of thousands of dollars to repair. Or, of course I could do as the Honda service department suggests, trade it in on a new Honda!
Bypass it by unplugging the BCM, and the car will run as a gasoline car indefinitely.
 

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i have a p1448 suddenly could you elaborate what a blocked intake port is(how to fix it eg) I have no clue where to look at thanks is it one of the vents?

I also wondering: does the IMA fan run all the time???
Usually, a P1448 is a blocked vent. The intake is located behind the passenger seat. The exhaust is located on the bottom of the battery box above the spare tire. Make sure both are unobstructed, then clear the code and see if it comes back. If it comes back, then contact me, as you'll have to open up the battery compartment to look for a fan or duct problem.
 

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Usually, a P1448 is a blocked vent. The intake is located behind the passenger seat. The exhaust is located on the bottom of the battery box above the spare tire. Make sure both are unobstructed, then clear the code and see if it comes back. If it comes back, then contact me, as you'll have to open up the battery compartment to look for a fan or duct problem.
I installed à subwoofer on the space of my spare tyre and "locked" it with foam, might be that?
Also does the battery fan runs all the time or only when it's too hot?
 

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Yes, it's probably that.

The battery fan only runs when the battery is hot.
 

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I could do as the Honda service department suggests, trade it in on a new Honda!
Of course they would suggest that. :!:

$1800 and 2 hours of work = New Battery
Payoff @ $100mo with a CC about 2 yrs
Gas savings pay for it easily.

New car around $15000
$350mo for 4yrs + at least $40mo more in gas.

1. Strangle Honda Service Dept. Representative with a garrote :evil:
2. Buy a BetterBattery :cool:
 

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Usually, a P1448 is a blocked vent. The intake is located behind the passenger seat. The exhaust is located on the bottom of the battery box above the spare tire. Make sure both are unobstructed, then clear the code and see if it comes back. If it comes back, then contact me, as you'll have to open up the battery compartment to look for a fan or duct problem.
Isn't the exhaust under the car and not going into the spare tire cavity? I think the exhaust is right in front of the rear axle pointing down to the ground. I'm missing my box thing in the trunk so when I just got home and the fan was running I lifted the lid and felt around and did not find air exhausting into that space. The bottom of the box above the spare feels like solid metal--no vent.
 
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