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Discussion Starter #1
This 2000 has over 130,000 miles, manual transmission, and it's the first time there has ever been a hint of a problem-- although the low beams just recently failed and the dealer didn't mention anything about a recall. We just paid. Anyway, the owner's manual says take the car in ASAP. If I want to drive the car and avoid any further damage to the IMA systems, can I just pull the 7.5 fuse? This is my first visit to INsightcentral and I'm feeling a little ignorant but willing to learn. What is a recal?
 

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Dennis,

if your engine still starts, you can safely drive the car, at least for a little while.

Is your "alternator warning light" (battery shaped red light) on also? If it is, it means your DC-DC converter shut down, too and you are draining the little 12V battery. That would mean you really want to get to the dealer quickly, before it runs out. And keep the lights, fan, defogger, etc. off!

If the alt. warning is not on, you can drive theoretically forever, you just won't have the benefit of IMA.

Don't pull the fuse! This will reset the computer and any error codes generated. It will make it impossible for the service technician to diagnose the problem.

Good Luck and keep us posted!
 

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IMA problem

Armin,
No battery light on! Bad news is that I removed the fuse just to check to see if it was blown. Oops, did I blow it? Or is it OK to remove the fuse when it is not running? I don't think I tried it without the fuse. My dealer told me it would be a $95 diagnostic test. Should I invest in a diagnostic code reading thing? Excuse my ignorance; this is my first adventure into a car newer than 40 years old. What do these devices cost? Any recommendations as to product or where to look? I think tomorrow I'll drive it to see how I like driving on the 3 cylinders only. My 66 Saab is a 2cycle 3cylinder and weighs three hundred pounds more than the Insight.
 

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Hi Dennis and welcome to the forum :!:

In addition to Armin's good reply here's a link to probably more than you'd want to know about the IMA pack and recals:

http://www.insightcentral.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=750

And as you already know ( :?: ) the Insight *IS* 3 cylinder. :p ;)

Clearing the code before recording it may make future diagnosis very difficult. There are several different ways to get the code. Check out the scan-tool link here:

http://www.insightcentral.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=901

There are many other threads on both of these topics. Try the forum search feature :!: :D

HTH! :)
 

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A little clairification. When the "check engine light" comes on, an ODB2 scanner can read codes and turn off the light. Codes are stored even if power is lost. When the IMA light comes on, the code(s) can only be read with a Honda scanner or by using this trick. The code(s) are cleared and the light turns off when power is lost for more than a few seconds. (i.e. pull the fuse or disconnect the 12V battery)

Now that ther IMA light is out, don't bother going to a honda dealer until/.unless the IMA light comes on again.

And find another Honda dealer. $95 is way too expensive just to plug in a scanner and read the codes. My dealer charged $40 and I think that's too high.

If you don't have one, get a service manual. Working on a modern car without the factory service manual is like trying to use a computer without an operating system.
 

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Sorry flunkysama,

OBDII codes are stored in volitile memory, if power is lost then the codes are lost. The clumsiest way to clear engine codes is remove the battery terminal for about 60 sec.

Unlike SRS (airbag) codes that are stored in non volitile memory and require a special signal to the SRS computer to erase them.

You are correct that IMA codes aren't OBDII and any aftermarket scanner will _NOT_ be able to retrieve them. Therefore you must blink them out as you specified. :)

HTH! :)
 

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p.s. Dennis bailey

While I don't remember the specifics in regard to the headlight recall and model years affected, if you do qualify under the recall Honda will refund the costs of the repairs.

You can check with your local dealership and have them show you the recall or call Honda customer relations.

HTH! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Running on a lit IMA

What precautions can I take if I want to drive with the IMA light on and eliminate any further damage to what may be malfunctioning? My check engine light is also on, but engine oil level is fine. Does check engine light usually come on with the IMA light. An aside: the IMA light went out today, but not the check engine light, and the SoC went to full bars on the long descent to work. Leaving work today the car started w/ the IMA light and engine light back on. Arrived home after the long ascent from sea level to 1200 ft in 12 miles with full bars and never a blink from the charge or assist gauges.
By the way, this sight is awesome and thank you so much to the moderators and all for sharing your experience and know-how.
Armin, how long is a little while? And why not for a long time?
John, HTH... Hail the Hybrid?
 

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The check engine light is likely related to the IMA problem, but we can't necessarily rule out some other problem. The CEL will blink if there is a serious, pull off the road right now, type problem. I'd still get that checked out. As far as driving without the IMA I'd first make sure you have a good 12 volt battery because the DC/DC converter could potentially loose power on you leaving the accessory battery to do the work. If it does do this and you have a 12 volt battery with enough capacity you might be able to just recharge it while your at home. If the DC/DC stops working and your 12 volt goes dead you'll be stranded, that would be my main concern.
 

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carbon copy

Sounds like my history to the 'T'. IMA and CEL on with no sign of charge or assist. Code read: 1449, the kiss of death for the battery pack. Sheer good fortune in my choice of used car dealer kept the out of pocket $$ to zero. Hope yours is still under the 80,000 mile battery pack warranty.
 

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Thanks, all. I had the codes read today: P0134 and P1448. If I understand this vehicle correctly, I can drive until it begins to lose charge in the 144v and/or 12v, providing there are no other problems as have been mentioned. It's true that these two systems are integrated? That the 144v can be sourced to start the car? May be I should pick up a solar panel to power the 12v and others to charge the 144! The SoC gauge continues to show full bars. I guess the next step is to take it to the dealer, pay the $95 diagnostic and get an estimate of repairs.
 

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The IMA system also "doubles" as the alternator and the 144v is directly converted to 12v via the DC-DC converter. So with _some_ IMA failures the 12v system will also go dead.

And I would tend to believe that given enought time (maybe several years) of running with a "bad" IMA pack that one cell groups internal resistance will go low enough to cause this type of failure.

But since 50% of the available low RPM torque is provided by the IMA system you'll be driving a gutless wonder without it. :(

So yes, until the standard type charging system warning light (red, battery symbol) starts coming on reguralry then its OK to drive regardless of the IMA SoC.

Maybe its time to shop for a used IMA pack :?: :D

HTH! (Hail the Hybrid) :lol:
 
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