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I would like to tell this story in case it helps anybody else:

The first time my IMA light, codes, etc. came on I replaced the battery for $2000.

After three years the light started coming on again. Not wanting to spend another $2k, I just started disconnecting the 12v battery cable to reset the light when it came on. I did this about once a week for many months. Then, mysteriously, the IMA light stopped coming on, and has not come on for a year!

Wish I would have tried this the first time.
 

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I would like to tell this story in case it helps anybody else:

The first time my IMA light, codes, etc. came on I replaced the battery for $2000.

After three years the light started coming on again. Not wanting to spend another $2k, I just started disconnecting the 12v battery cable to reset the light when it came on. I did this about once a week for many months. Then, mysteriously, the IMA light stopped coming on, and has not come on for a year!

Wish I would have tried this the first time.
Welcome back to the forum.

If you don't know about grid charging/discharging please go to my web site and read about my V2 DIY grid charger/discharger. Playing with the 12v battery cable isn't even a band aid to help getting rid of the error code(s) you are seeing.

You can get the link by clicking on the CRX note below this post.
 

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I would like to tell this story in case it helps anybody else: The first time my IMA light, codes, etc. came on I replaced the battery for $2000. After three years the light started coming on again. Not wanting to spend another $2k, I just started disconnecting the 12v battery cable to reset the light when it came on. I did this about once a week for many months. Then, mysteriously, the IMA light stopped coming on, and has not come on for a year! Wish I would have tried this the first time.
Probably not the...best strategy - either of them. If one gets an IMA light, the best thing to do is 'blink' the codes or have them read with an OBDII scanner to find out which one it is. Usually it's due to cells in the pack being out of balance, so the pack is considered empty and full prematurely and results in very little usable capacity.

The second step, or perhaps an interim one, might be to pull the 12V negative cable or the underdash number 18 fuse to reset the computers and see how well that helps, if at all. It sometimes can, and can be 'good enough'. Otherwise, it's usually on to something like buying an external 'grid charger' and 'discharger', charging the pack full, discharging to empty, charging it again, and then taking it from there.

IMA lights are a seriously lagging indicator of pack condition. When they come on, the pack is long past the time it should have been looked at, 'treated', such as with a grid charge and/or discharge... If you reset the computers by repeatedly pulling the 12V neg cable, you're basically forcing usage of, most likely, unbalanced cells into a very minimally usable balanced state. It doesn't take much to 'make the pack work', but it's now in a far-from-optimal state. You can have cells at say 20% actual charge state and others at say 80% - and the pack will work. But usage with that kind of charge state imbalance will result in the cells becoming more and more different over time, they'll become permanently mismatched and likely the pack will fail again sooner rather than later.
 

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Then, mysteriously, the IMA light stopped coming on, and has not come on for a year!
Thanks for providing this great data point. I'm guessing that what happened here was that the car had been sitting for a long time and the cells discharged unevenly, enough to light the IMA light. I'm also guessing you drove it only very short distances, or maybe only once a week, or maybe there was an intermittent that resolved itself.

The car will self-balance the cells if driven long enough. @Eli has demonstrated this; I have seen it too.

I don't see a problem with your approach. What you describe happened to me, and once I started using my car again, the battery kept going for several years, just great, until I beat it hard during a test.
 

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IMA lights are a seriously lagging indicator of pack condition. When they come on, the pack is long past the time it should have been looked at
Not necessarily. If you've let a car with a good IMA sit for a long time, it can throw a light when you start it again. Happened to me, and this was in a driveway, and the car was not even driven.

Once the car is driven a healthy amount, the cells well rebalance. I used a code reader capable of talking to the IMA system to extinguish the light.

This same battery went several years before it started having issues (that I created) and it is something that I am noticing, and not enough to light the IMA light.
 

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^ I hardly know what you're talking about... It's like you 'disagree' without even knowing what you're disagreeing with. You even end up making my point - your 'battery started having issues without lighting an IMA light.' Right, lagging indicator, you have problems without a light...

You over generalize the 'drive and balance' thing. It takes a certain kind of driving to achieve that, plus cells that don't self discharge like yours did, just sitting there. Of course you're gonna have problems if a cell or more self discharges when you don't use the car - who ever said it wouldn't? You just don't make sense, sorry...
 
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