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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Pete mention I should post it if I knew a way to run the hch1 with the battery turned off, Did bookmark this seems mike found something, it's a one wire cut.
http://99mpg.com/mikestips/runningacivicwithn/
The RPM charging start over 1600.

Another site I've seen but lost, as I did clean my history said Something about disconnect the 3 Oranges harness on outside the pack Mcm? and explained why it's worked, I try to find it's again, it's for the insight, might work too. as I will have to used the exalt words in search and I do try random different words.

You can also go solar I have 145 watts on my car.and in sun it's show 13-14 volts engine off. And connected to the 12 volt system direct with 2 more battery as reserves,
or you can used a marine cell and charge nightly.

But really the best safety you can have is set up your a car up so if maybe ,gas was ever to spike in a gulf war 6 bucks plus you are are still mobile, be it's solar or coasting 60% to 90% engine off, cant beat that. And for that you will you would need full IMA manually controls,

running without the ima battery you will see a bout 5-6 mpg drop as the engine was tuned for higher power and the electric motor torque is helping the car leave the line, so you will stay heavy on the trottle longer.
 

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Even easier is to simply unplug the leftmost plug in the MCM (the one farthest from the battery). That way you don't have to cut any wires and you can easily restore it later.




Pete mention I should post it if I knew a way to run the hch1 with the battery turned off, Did bookmark this seems mike found something, it's a one wire cut.
http://99mpg.com/mikestips/runningacivicwithn/
The RPM charging start over 1600.

Another site I've seen but lost, as I did clean my history said Something about disconnect the 3 Oranges harness on outside the pack Mcm? and explained why it's worked, I try to find it's again, it's for the insight, might work too. as I will have to used the exalt words in search and I do try random different words.

You can also go solar I have 145 watts on my car.and in sun it's show 13-14 volts engine off. And connected to the 12 volt system direct with 2 more battery as reserves,
or you can used a marine cell and charge nightly.

But really the best safety you can have is set up your a car up so if maybe ,gas was ever to spike in a gulf war 6 bucks plus you are are still mobile, be it's solar or coasting 60% to 90% engine off, cant beat that. And for that you will you would need full IMA manually controls,

running without the ima battery you will see a bout 5-6 mpg drop as the engine was tuned for higher power and the electric motor torque is helping the car leave the line, so you will stay heavy on the trottle longer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Even easier is to simply unplug the leftmost plug in the MCM (the one farthest from the battery). That way you don't have to cut any wires and you can easily restore it later.
Yea, it's probably one of the main of 3 harnesses that web site was talking about.

Really it's all about driver battery management for a long lasting IMA battery. the ECU software is just about generally, as battery limitations not their yet.
Your driving style is a factor on how many year you can keep a balanced pack running.
I remember the old forum I first went too when I first got the car, the old timers were calling a 40% back ground charging a recall. saying I as wrong, one even call me stupid and that you were suppose to use all braking for charging that how it's was designed. and I now see most are on they second battery pack while mine are still running strong, at original mostly all stop and go 128,27 city miles. Their really tough panasonic c cells if you think about the daily cycles in a year it go through.:)
 

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Even easier is to simply unplug the leftmost plug in the MCM (the one farthest from the battery). That way you don't have to cut any wires and you can easily restore it later.
So just so we are clear, in the link picture is this the fourth connector counting from the right (1 black and 3 white). That is the 3rd white connector, the leftmost one?

Will this work with the battery removed or with the battery still in place? If in place, does the master switch need to be in the off position or does it not matter?

Here is the statement under the pictures:

Had a 2004 civic owner that wanted to pull his battery to do some diagnostics,but wanted to use the car with the battery out.
We mounted the relay board with all or the plugs connected, and found that the 12 V battery was not being charged to fix that we found that the DC/DC enable is a single wire, that is pulled high internally in the MCM/BCM. High is dc/dc running, low is disabled.
Simply cut the green wire with the black stripe on the DC/DC converter control connector, and the 12V will be charged as long as the RPM is over 1600 or so. You know when it is working as the Battery trouble light will illuminate when it is not.

Is the relay board just the end off the battery?

Can you explain how cutting the green wire enables the DC-DC? Is there a voltage applied to the wire when the car detects there is no battery, just a relay board and this disables the DC-DC? Thus, with a cut green wire it is always enabled?

Does removing the above mentioned white connector do the same thing? with and without the battery in place?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
John, seem now you want to refresh your ima pack instead of unhybrid your car,
I have a idea and think I can help you. would you be willing to try *this daily ritual for a minimum of 4 month? Every day ?
A way of discharging and slow 4 bars, recharging, as repetitive and consistency is balanced.
We aim *to get your pack back normal. IF not maybe we could just get at lease the auto stop working that a huge mpg item

I take it you have codes, I think I know a way around this working with the ECU. The best way First, we will try accomplishing *balancing *the pack up to half way without throwing a code,*
we do it in two parts *
then the second half which I have done on my car which is gain capacity and never a recall even abusing the assist.as I already have done Successfully

Logically this should work, it's how I design Using logic ,counting points. Bet you understand that :p
You will need a alarm clock, a tablet, or a laptop, for draining the 12 volt battery, here how it has worked for me, I arrive home with the SOC just at 40% about when the *back ground charging start. I *then used the tablet and a inverter a laptop you should shorted the usage to about 20 minutes, a ipad tablet is about a hour. You leave the key on accessory. Don't start the car till morning (the tranfer) as we wouldn't know how low the IMA *batteries *will be then when the car is run. and leaving it over night uncharged and unbalanced and could cause a reversal. one reversal destroy the chain.

In the morning *loosen the 12 volt cable nuts leaving in on before starting. (this is to reset the code and force a recall but don't do it yet.)
After starting Check for codes, idle the car about 5 minutes did you get a recall? That *1 or 2 bar SOC ? Or did it stay at 40% and the back ground charging is happening? Do you have a code? By idling the dc converter it taking the current from the ima pack going below 40%, I know from experience I can trigger a recall if *drain my in car battery (got 2h after 3-4 hour parked internet use, and also the reason why a soon failing *bad 12 volt will car give you a recall, as *battery fail from the back end. they will show you 12*+ but under load they fall off a steep cliff quickly.*
What we want is to start the slow 4 bar charging as low of a state *as we can. * You should get a recall, as your pack get better as mine you just get a drop to about 30% not a recall. drive slowly as to not use assist Using 4 bars and when stopping put it in neutral to avoid full damaging braking regen. Or pop *it off and on Using around 4 bars of braking.

If you didn't get a recall drive around after 5 minutes and *stop when you do, take off the battery cable. Right away this will give you again**recall zeros bars, I don't know how long to clear the codes but experiencment it has to be shorter than 12 minutes.*

clear the codes Drive slowly and you should see 4 bars charging. Now after reaching 1/2 SOC. because its a weak battery assist want to come in, but we will not allow this as this will give a code. So before you get a code at above 1/2 SOC. Stop there and unhook the cable and put it back on forcing a recall or starting all over at 4 bar charging at the bottom again, but it's really added on top of the first 1/2 charging. This way we should avoid a code that a assist signal as we build a slow charge base over and over.

In time When your pack get stronger, your cell are now balanced and you should handle stronger asist so when you reach 1/2 half the second time around you would now get a positive recall, the adjustment was Recounted and readjusted, giving you a full SOC.

After a *week if you got two 1/2 of 4 bars charge in and no codes you are on your way the *start of part 2 , that instead of stopping at 1/2 Soc. go on up more but see how far you can get. that using the throttle gently * as assist will come in and if the stick still not balance it will throw a code,*

Do not do this more that 2 times, as the strong cell will over heat. see how long you can drive before a code happen. Leave the code as were *cleaning from the bottom up, that repeat above the next day. *it's should get longer everyday.

This is long, but read it over and over and it's will become clear. those pound signs came from copying it over iPad notes.
Let me know John. Free and easy poor mans style.
 

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My IMA battery is apart on the bench as I cycle each stick individually.

I have found that this doesn't work for me. Removing the first white plug from the left didn't do anything.

I also tried this separately and it also doesn't work. Basically the link suggests to cut/remove the green with black wire from the grey plug.
http://99mpg.com/mikestips/runningacivicwithn/

I tried both methods together, and it still doesn't work. I can tell because I measured the voltage at 2500rpm and it's around 12.3v (12.5 when the car idles). Also, the red 12v battery light never turns off.

Any ideas are welcome! I charge it overnight to get around locally, but I have been using my wife's car to go to work (30+ miles away).

I'm kind of in a bind since we need two cars. What say you?
 

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Is the electronics board in the car? It is necessary to connect the inverter to the orange plug which then powers the DC-DC converter. That wire or plug hack simply stops the car from shutting down the dc-dc converter. The converter still needs power coming in.

Lastly, do you have a blown fuse in that board?

My IMA battery is apart on the bench as I cycle each stick individually.



I have found that this doesn't work for me. Removing the first white plug from the left didn't do anything.

I also tried this separately and it also doesn't work. Basically the link suggests to cut/remove the green with black wire from the grey plug.
http://99mpg.com/mikestips/runningacivicwithn/

I tried both methods together, and it still doesn't work. I can tell because I measured the voltage at 2500rpm and it's around 12.3v (12.5 when the car idles). Also, the red 12v battery light never turns off.

Any ideas are welcome! I charge it overnight to get around locally, but I have been using my wife's car to go to work (30+ miles away).

I'm kind of in a bind since we need two cars. What say you?
 

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Is the electronics board in the car? It is necessary to connect the inverter to the orange plug which then powers the DC-DC converter. That wire or plug hack simply stops the car from shutting down the dc-dc converter. The converter still needs power coming in.

Lastly, do you have a blown fuse in that board?
What are you calling the "electronics board"? The entire battery pack is out of the car. There's an orange board which holds the sticks in place which has a orange lead/connector on it which plugs into the top of the BCM. There's also the black unit which has all the fuses and the HV connections which plugs into another orange lead/connector. Neither is in the car. They're apart as the battery is disassembled on my bench.

What do I need to do here?
 

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What are you calling the "electronics board"? The entire battery pack is out of the car. There's an orange board which holds the sticks in place which has a orange lead/connector on it which plugs into the top of the BCM. There's also the black unit which has all the fuses and the HV connections which plugs into another orange lead/connector. Neither is in the car. They're apart as the battery is disassembled on my bench.

What do I need to do here?

So I figured this out. I put the pack back in the car without the sticks in it. So all the electronics of the pack are in the car and hooked up. The breaker switch is turned off and I removed the leftmost white plug as was previously suggested and everything is working as described. I guess you cannot truly run the car without the pack. You will still need the pack's electronics minus the battery sticks.
 

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imi pack off civic, check engine light is on.

I have a civic imi 2003 and the hybrid pack has got to the stage where it has finally failed.
It has been throwing P1449 and P1600 codes for about a year or two and I have been able to reset these and continue driving ok.
Anyway I have switched the pack off, pulled the left hand plug to bypass the pack and everything seems ok. Battery light illuminates under about 1400 rpm and over 3800rpm as I have read about.

The problem tat I have is the Check engine light which I cannot permanently reset.

Code U0110 - drive motor problem is now displayed. I can only momentarily reset it.

In the UK it is not possible for a car to pass the MOT test whilst the light is on. Do any of you guys know of a solution please as I have a test due??
 

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I have a civic imi 2003 and the hybrid pack has got to the stage where it has finally failed.
It has been throwing P1449 and P1600 codes for about a year or two and I have been able to reset these and continue driving ok.
Anyway I have switched the pack off, pulled the left hand plug to bypass the pack and everything seems ok. Battery light illuminates under about 1400 rpm and over 3800rpm as I have read about.

The problem tat I have is the Check engine light which I cannot permanently reset.

Code U0110 - drive motor problem is now displayed. I can only momentarily reset it.

In the UK it is not possible for a car to pass the MOT test whilst the light is on. Do any of you guys know of a solution please as I have a test due??
Get a grid charger from hybrid automotive and do a discharge/recharge on the battery.
 

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Balto:
He is probably "Across the pond" in England. maybe contact Peter?

Willie
 

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Yes I am in UK.
I have been looking for a secondhand battery but none available here cheap. The car is not worth spending too much on.
 

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Yes I am in UK.
I have been looking for a secondhand battery but none available here cheap. The car is not worth spending too much on.
Then sell it to Peter. There are less than 250 Insights in the UK and he can find it a home. Don't scrap it.

And in answer to your question, your code is due to the bypass. There is no way to bypass a battery and not have a MIL.

Perhaps you can RENT a battery for the test and then go back to the bypass. There really isn't any safety or pollution issue with a bypassed battery, just that it doesn't meet manufacturer spec, so the light is on, and light on = fail to all government bodies.

Talk to Peter ( retepsnikrep )
 

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A grid charger may resurect the pack enough to get a MOT.

I only sell packs rebuilt with new sticks..

You cannot clear the CEL code on the civic with the ima disabled.
 

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A grid charger may resurect the pack enough to get a MOT.

I only sell packs rebuilt with new sticks..

You cannot clear the CEL code on the civic with the ima disabled.
ok many thanks for the advise Peter. Unless I can find somebody locally with a grid charger or can hire/ borrow one I am not sure that I will be able to recover the cost of purchasing one. I think that it may be time for the civic to go to a new owner and for them to use it as it is or play with the battery problem.
 

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Imi battery disconnected long term?

Update. Apparently the CEL is not part of the UK mot test and so I put it in the garage for the test and it went straight through. 13 year old car and has never failed a test.
Still looking for a cheap battery or most likely option is to sell it on as it is.

Has anybody on here been running long term with the imi disabled? It does seem to be charging OK.
 
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