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I have a civic imi 2003 and the hybrid pack has got to the stage where it has finally failed.
Me too, same car. I was able to keep it limping along for a while with grid charges and discharges but lately the IMA comes back on a day or two after any sort of battery treatment. So I have given up on such things. On the plus side Honda finally got the parts in to replace the two recalled airbags and the recalled light stalk switch. Whoopee, now it is a safer failing car. While it was in for that I had the dealer change the expensive oil and the expensive CVT fluid, which they now say should be changed every 15K miles, which reminded me once again that Honda somehow managed to be build a car that gets good gas mileage and yet is neither reliable (1 failed CVT, 2 failed IMA packs at about 120K miles) nor cheap to drive (preceding plus costly fluids for maintenance.)

I'm really not hot to spend ~2K$ on a 3rd IMA, although one from a vendor other than Honda might work better. Or not. It is really hot here, and batteries just do not like those sorts of temperatures. Plus I have no reason to think the CVT will hold up, as one has already failed.

Probably I should just get a Prius and be done with it. I wouldn't even hesitate it it was just the mechanics of the car, but I really do not like driving a Prius. That invisible front end is really tough for me when parking. (Depth perception issues, it helps to be able to see some part of the front of the car.)
 

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So just so we are clear, in the link picture is this the fourth connector counting from the right (1 black and 3 white). That is the 3rd white connector, the leftmost one?

Will this work with the battery removed or with the battery still in place? If in place, does the master switch need to be in the off position or does it not matter?

Here is the statement under the pictures:

Had a 2004 civic owner that wanted to pull his battery to do some diagnostics,but wanted to use the car with the battery out.
We mounted the relay board with all or the plugs connected, and found that the 12 V battery was not being charged to fix that we found that the DC/DC enable is a single wire, that is pulled high internally in the MCM/BCM. High is dc/dc running, low is disabled.
Simply cut the green wire with the black stripe on the DC/DC converter control connector, and the 12V will be charged as long as the RPM is over 1600 or so. You know when it is working as the Battery trouble light will illuminate when it is not.

Is the relay board just the end off the battery?

Can you explain how cutting the green wire enables the DC-DC? Is there a voltage applied to the wire when the car detects there is no battery, just a relay board and this disables the DC-DC? Thus, with a cut green wire it is always enabled?

Does removing the above mentioned white connector do the same thing? with and without the battery in place?
I removed my battery completely from my 2005 hch1. With the exception of a couple nuts and bolts I was able to use existing parts off of the battery I removed. I have a video of the set up but I can explain it in detail if you want to bypass your battery. For the record I was having IMA issues and was told I needed to replace my hybrid battery as a "definitive" diagnosis. throwing codes p1570 and p1600. after doing the battery bypass I started to play around with the battery and realized all I ever needed to do was replace the 30 amp insulator fuse on the battery pack. It controls the dc/dc converter and those fuses break down over time and can't absorb the power like they used to. They need to release built up power instantly or it notifies the ima and it "malfunctions". When you buy a new battery it comes with those fuses already installed on them. There's a 100 amp that protects the battery and a technically 20 amp fuse stock (but I use a 30 amp) that protects the dc/dc converter. So like magic a new battery fixes all your problems! 🤣 you can get these 2 fuses of a higher quality for around $60-$70 for the pair. I replaced the fuses, reinstalled the battery and my ima system works absolutely perfectly. When you see that your ima system is malfunctioning or working intermittently do yourself a favor and replace those fuses before you ever take it in for service. Like I said the fuses break down more and more over time so the problems with your ima will get progressively worse as this happens until it just instantly disables every time you turn the key on.... sorry I know I ramble lol but the more you know the better.

Now back to the bypass: since you already understand how it works I'll explain this quickly. Basically there's a wiring harness that runs from the ima system to the battery (bottom orange harness) and from the battery to the dc/dc convertor (top large orange pos+ neg- cables) you're bypassing the hybrid battery completely so remove the other half of the wiring harness from the battery. Connect the neg- of that harness to the large neg- cable running to the dc/dc and with the positive run the 20 amp (do 30) inline between the pos+ on the harness and the large pos+ running to the dc/dc. Be sure to properly insulate those wires, fuse, connectors before you even test your fix. Now Connect the wiring harness you just modified to the other half still connected to the ima. Unplug what I would call the third white wiring harness from the bottom of the dc/dc convertor. This would be the harness furthest away from the hybrid battery. Now reconnect your 12v battery and test it out. Your 12v battery light will come on at idle and also for 45 seconds when you hit 4000 rpm. Believe it or not it's extremely easy to adapt to. I took it all over the eastern sierras for a year with the bypass and had zero issues. All the weird ima quirks disappear. Once you're good disconnect the 12v and reinstall your cover and rear seat etc. You'll get CEL u0110 which is actually pretty accurate 🤣. I average roughly 50 mpg with the bypass/battery delete.... and my bad I totally rambled again 🤣
 
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