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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2000 Insight with a battery level indicator that will not drop below about 80% charge. The IMA does provide assist when I step on the gas but because the battery level is supposed to be almost max, the system won't charge the battery pack except when regen braking or when coasting down a hill. Since the battery is not being charged adequately, when assist is required the battery can only provide a limited boost for a limited time-usually not enough for even a short hill- but the gauge continues to shpw 80-90% charge. The actual battery level can get so low that on a few occasions on approaching a stop & depressing the clutch, when the car tries to switch the motor to standby mode, the car stalls instead. When I then restart, it takes a couple of seconds & then I hear the starter turn over(not the IMA start),the car starts & away we go.
Forced recal makes the problems totally disappear for about 5-10 minutes as the charge system rebuilds the battery level. However, when the charge level gets to just over half, the charge gauge moves quickly to the 80-90% level & the problems quickly reappear as the actual battery level is depleted.
The battery was replaced a year and a half ago & the 12 volt battery is good.
Help. The dealer is at a loss
 

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Make sure the 12V battery is good (do a load test not just read the voltage at the battery. Do the test first thing in the morning after the battery has been sitting for a lengthy time.) Ground straps inspection is also mandatory. Try to monitor the charge to the 12V battery, sounds like the 12V is drawing a lot of juice from the IMA battery which it will sometimes do in autostop. (Correct me ELI if I'm wrong)
Start with the simple things first.
A long time ago there was another INSIGHTER listed as being in Aiken SC, maybe he is still around for assistance. Many many years ago, I lived in Aiken.
HTH
Willie
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
After reviewing everything here I went out & ordered a charger from Art Wilbur([email protected]) last Wed., received it on Fri., installed it on Sat., charged the battery for 18 hours and voila the problem is resolved. In fact the car functions better than it has in a long time. Slower discharge during regular driving & quicker recovery.
Thanks to all for your help.
 

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Nice I just ordered my charger from artic today, how hard was it to get to the positive battery terminal and did you try deplete the battery before charging as well?
 

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Nice I just ordered my charger from artic today, how hard was it to get to the positive battery terminal and did you try deplete the battery before charging as well?
My son and I installed one of Art's in my car in about 2 hours (maybe less) and the longest part was removing and replacing all of the screws.:p I don't recall anything terrible about getting connected to the positive terminal.
 

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My son and I installed one of Art's in my car in about 2 hours (maybe less) and the longest part was removing and replacing all of the screws.:p I don't recall anything terrible about getting connected to the positive terminal.
Ok thats good new, you didn't take out the battery either right? Did you try to deplete the battery by WOT or just charged it right off the back?
 

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Ok thats good new, you didn't take out the battery either right? Did you try to deplete the battery by WOT or just charged it right off the back?
No, I didn't try to deplete the battery. It was around 19-20 bars when I had gotten home that evening. It was around 9:00pm when we got done and I plugged it in and left it until the next morning. Also, no, we didn't have to remove the battery to get to the terminals. It's a little cramped it went off without a hitch.
 

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You guys buying these chargers DO know that it is YOUR job to monitor the battery, right? They are not safe like Mike's chargers and can cause damage if you let them.

Sam
 

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Charging time

I have used a grid charger for the last 30 months, here is my advice:

No need to charge for 18 hours, after the pack is full, the charge current becomes heat, the pack gets warm and the cells can overheat and vent gas (Not good)!

Advice is to charge the pack monitiring the peak voltage, when it reaches the peak which may range between 169V (Summer) to 173Volts (winter) give it about 30 minutes and then stop the charge, run the fan for another 30 minutes in Summer temperatures, to help cool the pack.

During the charge, leave the hatch and front door open to prevent heat build up in the cabin.

A weekly charge of modest duration of 4 to 5 hours might be all your car needs.
 

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I have used a grid charger for the last 30 months, here is my advice:

No need to charge for 18 hours, after the pack is full, the charge current becomes heat, the pack gets warm and the cells can overheat and vent gas (Not good)!

Advice is to charge the pack monitiring the peak voltage, when it reaches the peak which may range between 169V (Summer) to 173Volts (winter) give it about 30 minutes and then stop the charge, run the fan for another 30 minutes in Summer temperatures, to help cool the pack.

During the charge, leave the hatch and front door open to prevent heat build up in the cabin.

A weekly charge of modest duration of 4 to 5 hours might be all your car needs.
Here is a dumb question from a non-electronics/non-engineer person. Would it be possible to turn a regular 12V/6amp battery charger into a 144V milliamp trickle charger by adding electronics to the charging circuit? If so, what would be the circuit elements and circuit design?

When charging a regular 12V battery that is discharged the amps start up near 6 and slowly over time reduce to a "trickle" charge as the battery approaches full charge (I assume due to the internal resistance of the 12V ). And so, if one put a large variable resistor ("reostat") in series with the 12v/6amp charger then you could trickle charge the 12V back to full over say a month slowly reducing the added resistance provided by the "reostat" as the resistance in the 12V built up. Logically correct?

There is a "converter" in the charger that is turning 120V AC into 12V DC. Can something to added/removed/changed to cause it to put out 144V DC?

I probably need to go take a basic electronics class at the community college in my spare time.
 

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You would just need to change the ratio of windings from the primary to secondary side, then add a bridge to make it dc. Lastly a regulator to limit the output.


Sent from my Autoguide iPod touch app
 

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No, I didn't try to deplete the battery. It was around 19-20 bars when I had gotten home that evening. It was around 9:00pm when we got done and I plugged it in and left it until the next morning. Also, no, we didn't have to remove the battery to get to the terminals. It's a little cramped it went off without a hitch.

I just got done installing the charger and did exactly what you did. My question how many volts did you have before you charged it? My volt meter is showing 177.2 volts (kinda high I would think). And what was your final volt reading after charging? My car is 01 CVT btw.
 

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Kenpo is that your voltage at beginning of charge?

Willie
 

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I just got done installing the charger and did exactly what you did. My question how many volts did you have before you charged it? My volt meter is showing 177.2 volts (kinda high I would think). And what was your final volt reading after charging? My car is 01 CVT btw.
I don't recall exactly what the starting voltage was but I want to say it was around 164V range-give or take. I think the voltage ended up the next morning in the 172V range. With the temps we've been having lately, I typically see 176.2V in the morning. I have turned the charger on briefly when I get home from work in the evenings and the voltage then is right around 164-165V. I have been putting my charger on a timer set to turn on 4 hours before I leave in the morning. 177.2 does seem a bit on the high side compared to what I've seen in the past.
 
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