Honda Insight Forum banner
261 - 280 of 603 Posts

·
Administrator
Joined
·
13,066 Posts
Anecodotal evidence

FWIW When the UK cvt rally car is running a NIMH pack it works a lot better when flogged and worked up and down. It needs exercise to keep it fit and get the best out of it.
If it just lays on the couch being drip fed (grid charged) it will get lazy.
So hard use of assist / regen if it is balanced is good for them IMO.
It needs to be balanced first though.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,661 Posts
Interesting points both EQ and Peter.

It is fascinating how each car and pack is so alike yet so different.

EQ: could you remind me again how you perform the auto-stop discharge? and how are you able to monitor voltage? do you have indication on soc? I find long soak charges more beneficial (since I have at least 2 or 3 weak sticks) to restore capacity that lasts for some time (compared to earlier this year). I usually don't see recal's until some deterioration of capacity has occurred.

Peter: agreed with both you and EQ on the aggressive use of the pack, which must be more frequent on the mt's. My hypermiling style of driving is obviously counter to what the pack needs, since I rarely 'get into it' with aggressive assist (and my pack does 'get lazy). I do regen aggressively when able, especially on downhill ramps with stop signs at the end. Once capacity is restored with a good reconditioning, the mountain climb to work provides a nice place for 'sustained moderate' assist, but when the weakness rares up again, I go easy on the pack to minimize the mpg killing forced regens.

(Can only imagine how a strong new pack would perform on my commute....eventually this pack will quit and I'll find out.)

The more I learn about this car, the more I like it.

..Bob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,830 Posts
Discussion Starter · #263 ·
EQ: could you remind me again how you perform the auto-stop discharge? and how are you able to monitor voltage? do you have indication on soc? I find long soak charges more beneficial (since I have at least 2 or 3 weak sticks) to restore capacity that lasts for some time (compared to earlier this year). I usually don't see recal's until some deterioration of capacity has occurred....
I just leave the car in auto-stop until the DC-DC stops draining the HV battery, switching to the 12 volt battery. With 'nothing' on the drain is about 1 amp - I have always-on driving lights so that's part of the drain. The 12 volt battery usually drains something like 0.5 amps - if I put a 12 volt battery charger on the 12 volt battery, the auto-stop discharge of the HV battery falls to about 0.5 amps... I monitor with the OBDIIC&C. I usually do some kind of SOC reset when it negative recals to 25%. Not sure if it matters: it seems like it's possible that the DC-DC cuts out at EITHER 17% SOC OR a voltage around 140V - because I've never seen SOC go much lower than 17%, whether I reset SOC or not... I'll have to test that out - not doing an SOC reset and see how low SOC goes...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,661 Posts
I just leave the car in auto-stop until the DC-DC stops draining the HV battery, switching to the 12 volt battery. With 'nothing' on the drain is about 1 amp - I have always-on driving lights so that's part of the drain. The 12 volt battery usually drains something like 0.5 amps - if I put a 12 volt battery charger on the 12 volt battery, the auto-stop discharge of the HV battery falls to about 0.5 amps... I monitor with the OBDIIC&C....
That's the curious part for me, how do you leave the car in auto-stop? Neutral, e-brake on?? Wondering if that works for a cvt..will have to try it.

Any temperature issues on the dc-dc during discharge?

How long does it take to discharge HV down to your target voltage at 1 or .5 amp? With the in-series shop light, I'm starting out at about 2 amps, but that drops as voltage drops. I average about 190-220 minutes to reach target voltage (depending on condition of pack).

I assume you have a simple grid charger to bring it back up. Self built?

Trying to get grasp on your technique so when others ask how they can manage their pack (and they don't have the $$ to spend on a more complex set up) I can tell them about another option...or just suggest they quiz you.

..Bob
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
13,066 Posts
You could disable the dc-dc inhibit signal and see how low it will go then ;)
Just put a switch in the inhibit wire to the dc-dc.
It will probably keep draining until the main contactor drops out.
Might get errors but you can clear them with the obdIIC&C
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,074 Posts
That's the curious part for me, how do you leave the car in auto-stop? Neutral, e-brake on?? Wondering if that works for a cvt..will have to try it....
I can help with part of your request.

To have AutoStop engage properly, do the following

1) On the dash, make sure that the ECON is off, i.e. the circulation fan is not on (1*).
2) Assuming that it is above 50F, the temp sensor behind the front grill will sense the outside temperature, and see that it is above the minimum temperature for AutoStop to function (2*).
3) Pull into the driveway and allow AutoStop to activate.
4) The key must stay in the ignition for AutoStop to continue working.

It helps if you monitor the battery voltage as it depletes. I have a trickle charge cable that I installed several years back, so I would monitor the battery voltage on that.

(1*) If ECON is on, AutoStop simply stops functioning, regardless what the outside temperature is. I tried fooling the car into many different temperatures, with no effect. If ECON is on, AutoStop is disabled.

(2*) You can trick the temperature sensor into believing that it is really warmer outside by pulling the sensor and replacing it with a resistor of let's say 5000 ohms. Check the manual for this, but I believe that value makes it think that it is 100F outside or thereabouts.

On the other hand, a resistor value of 100 ohms or so, makes the car think that it is -30F outside.

Hope this helps, Jim.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,661 Posts
Peter and Jim,

Thanks. What I'm wondering is once the car is warmed up and auto stop functioning (which mine does quite well), then I pull into the drive, stop, and A/S engages: I'm guessing I will key off only back one position (to ensure engine stays off), let car in drive (I have cvt) and set e-brake, and A/S will remain engaged.?. (My pack re-condition is almost done, I gotta try this out)

For the mt's, I think (correct me if I'm in the ozone layer) once A/S engages, key off the engine, tranny to neutral, clutch out, set e-brake, and A/S stays engaged??

..Bob
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,074 Posts
....For the mt's, I think (correct me if I'm in the ozone layer) once A/S engages, key off the engine, tranny to neutral, clutch out, set e-brake, and A/S stays engaged??.....
Bob,

As Peter pointed out, after engaging AutoStop, you can roll to a stop, keep the car in neutral, put the parking brake on, and leave it as is. The ignition key must remain in the ON position.

If you happen to put the car in gear OR touch the throttle with the clutch in, the car will start again.

It's rather obvious from the above requirements, that the car be in a "safe" environment for the discharge to take place.

HTH, Jim.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,661 Posts
Tried the a/s today. Pulled into driveway, a/s engaged, in drive, e-brake on. As soon as I take my foot off the foot brake the a/s disengages, ice re-starts.

I'll continue using the discharger I got from Mike (works great), but thought it was worth finding out if a cvt owner could disch via another method.

I guess the mt a/s will stay engaged until clutch back in and gear selected?

..Bob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,830 Posts
Discussion Starter · #273 ·
What happens when you put it in neutral? I'd think that would work based on how the manual works. MT: Come to stop with clutch pedal pressed, brake pressed, auto-stop engages, put in neutral (and put hand brake on), let out clutch and foot brake - still in auto-stop. CVT?: Come to stop in drive with brake pedal pressed, auto-stop engages?, put in neutral (or park, and engage hand brake), let out foot brake, still in auto-stop?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,215 Posts
Putting the CVT in Neutral disengages the AutoStop
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,661 Posts
Oh that's ok. Like I posted above, I have a great discharger set up that Mike D. put together. I was just wondering if there was another means of disch we could tell owners about who don't have their own set-up.

Good leaning info though.

..Bob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
wanted info on making a Battery Discharger

Can any one tell me the best way to make up a home brew discharger?
I have read in a previous post of putting 40/60 watt as light bulbs as a
load resistor? Any details on where and how to install the load on the pack?
Thanks,
Rick
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,389 Posts
The simplest discharger
http://99mpg.com/Data/Resources/downloads/miscstuff/quickydischarger.jpg

Turn off main switch, connect where the charger connects
Turn on main switch
when the discharge has proceeded to the desired voltage level, turn off main switch, and disconnect

A better discharger would be to rewire the same shop lite I used for the discharger I was selling and put alligator clips on the power wires.
 
261 - 280 of 603 Posts
Top