Honda Insight Forum banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone, in the UK, fell in love with the Mk1 the first time i saw it, and have had a trouble free lowish mileage one [70k] for severial years.
So the battery is old, and it sometimes goes flat but that is expected. The IMU light came on a few times last year, and fixed itself in fact the last time it fixed itself i got the full EV power.
The light came on a couple of days ago, set out on a long journey and the battery was supposedly full, the regen was good bbut no real power from the motor. Then power was restored but dash lights and display flashed- red warning for 12 volt battery.
Thinking it was a loose connection I stopped the car, checked the 12 volt, and no power to start it.
rolled it down the hill to bump start- felt the power steering was off [is this normal] got almost home and the display was fading, and the power - ignition voltage- was non existant- before I switched the engine off, I checked the fuses- and decided to pull the IMU fuse for no reason- and power was restored.

Obviously no electric assist-
And a burning electronic smell in engine bay.

so I'm guessing the IMU unit is dead.

So I would be grateful for any advice, hints, tips or otherwise.

the engine does start off its tiny 12 volt battery! so is it ssafe to use as a non hybrid?

and one unrelated thing [or may be not] the cigerette lighter outlet died recently- is there a fuse? - and where would it fail?

Thanks- jules.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
11,739 Posts
1) You probably need an appointment with the UK insight doctor. (Me)

Your IMA battery is failing and you will need a charger/discharger at the very least.
Has the car been laid up during lockdown? That will tip an old IMA battery over the edge.

2) Check the engine bay earth leads, repair and replace as necessary.

3) Check the 12v battery, charge and or replace as necessary.

4) Check the fuse for the cigarette lighter they are under the drivers side dashboard area on the sidewall.
There is a list of the fuse types on the back of the drop down cubby hole. (It pulls out)

e-mail me for further IMA battery and cycler info and pricing. [email protected]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
1) You probably need an appointment with the UK insight doctor. (Me)

Your IMA battery is failing and you will need a charger/discharger at the very least.
Has the car been laid up during lockdown? That will tip an old IMA battery over the edge.

2) Check the engine bay earth leads, repair and replace as necessary.

3) Check the 12v battery, charge and or replace as necessary.

4) Check the fuse for the cigarette lighter they are under the drivers side dashboard area on the sidewall.
There is a list of the fuse types on the back of the drop down cubby hole. (It pulls out)

e-mail me for further IMA battery and cycler info and pricing. [email protected]
I wondered about the earth, and will check it in the workshop tomorrow.
I pulled the IMU fuse and that stopped the drain on the 12 volt battery... is there a reason for this? incidently in the 10 miles I drove after pulling the fuse the 12 volt charged up enough to restart the engine [when I was safely home].

after the failure all the lights in the battery info dash faded- and gone on pulling the fuse obviously.
i I may take you up on the offer of a fix- ill see how the next few days play out.

Thanks for the reply- sometimes you just need another human out there with an opinion!
 

·
Premium Member
2001 5S "Turbo"
Joined
·
10,666 Posts
Have your IMU replaced with the proper IMA .
Peter can help you on that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
thanks -
so I am probably going to run it in ICE mode for the time being.
The job I was heading to was going to get me enough funds to consider buying a replacement battery- cells only direct from china [kingkong batteries that do the sticks].
There is much on reconditioning- swapping the first and last as a first fix.
reconditioning each stick with a few days of charging discharging.

using the imax b6 charger is sub £20 .

so the question- is it worth switching the car to ICE only- remove the battery and reconditioning the sticks over a week or so?
and if that fails simply buy replacments when I can afford it?

and are these steps logical?

it is my main run around- and finally I have some work. I do have a couple of other classic cars but for a 200 mile trips they are not very suitable.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
11,739 Posts
Do not waste money on Kingkong sticks.
You really need to contact me and speak in person.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Do not waste money on Kingkong sticks.
You really need to contact me and speak in person.
I'm some way affording replacement batteries of any kind- i have read up on your trickle charger and it seems a good option, in the mean time I need to keep running.
The car is a keeper 1999- 70k- so at some point it needs a complete overhaul. The AC pipes are shot and it is running dry, the steel is corroding and needs new coats after sand blasting, the car had a bang years ago in the tail and the spray job was not really Honda Citrus [green gold!]. So it needs to be pulled into my workshop- just playing with metal flake so may go retro 70s custom car look. But before all of this I need to make sure the cells have another 10 years life. Local to me is Electric classic car conversions with some expertise in batteries and cobbling different systems together, i dont want to break any insight taboo but a li-ion conversion is really tempting given the 18650 are the same price per amp.
and I will want new sticks eventually.
reconditioning each is where i will start.

and yes- the top earth is broken and gently brushing which could account for the warning light going on and off and improved motor engagement.

and I had no idea the car had electic assist for steering until now, or the location of the hidden fuse box or that there is also a 12 volt starter so live and learn.

I will see how todays work goes and report back.
will email when I have idea of where everything is at.
thanks.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
11,739 Posts
There are loads of detailed lithium conversions on here. You have months of reading ahead. ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
CHECK EARTH STRAPS...

fixed the top earth strap that was a broken one carefully disguised as whole.
so would an 'intermittant earth' cause the IMU warning light ot come on, and poor electric acceleration?

the IMA is charging, and the direct start is engaging- however from zero to full is less than 30 minutes so my guess the first stick is giving a false reading... has anyone else swapped the first and last stick and seen much of a result?

I have got my car back and learned so much more- thanks everyone.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
11,739 Posts
the IMA is charging, and the direct start is engaging- however from zero to full is less than 30 minutes so my guess the first stick is giving a false reading... has anyone else swapped the first and last stick and seen much of a result?

Jules

Thanks for the feedback, but i would say you are not out of the woods yet.
You have kicked the lurking IMA problems down the road by sorting the earth out.

Your 'guess' above is not correct.

Swapping the first and last sticks will do nothing. Sticks and taps don't give false readings.
They might be bad or unacceptable readings but not false.

Measure your ten BCM voltage taps with an accurate meter and post the data here for comment. The experienced members here can glean quite a bit from them.


Ripping the pack apart at this point and individually cycling sticks is laborious, time consuming, and almost always not worth the hours of effort. It might appear fixed and work for a week or few months, but unless you are incredibly lucky any improvement obtained will likely be short lived.

The IMAX B6 has a maximum discharge current of 1A so it will take 6.5hrs to do one discharge on one stick.
To cycle them properly you will need to charge/discharge/charge/discharge/charge call it 24 hrs per stick. :(
Then you need to do a final slow balance charge of the whole reassembled pack before recommissioning.

If your voltage tap checks do not indicate one obviously bad stick/cell, and the pack does not respond to a much quicker whole pack cycling process, then you simply need a new one.

PS I do rent out an automated 7 day pack cycler. Plug in turn on and come back in a week.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
A few months restbite will be fine and allow me to finish off some work- I'm about to drive 200 miles, and warming up the car the battery is settling in- it went from full reading to near empty with the self charge very slowly bringing up the voltage. I will give it a proper test !
The earth strap has been broken for years it seems- brushing against itself and giving odd readings and power output.
So will see if MPG increases.
Will report back in a week or two- either happy or otherwise.
like i say the car is a keeper but needs work and if I use the Truimph convertable over the summer [after I have earned some cash] I can get the whole thing into the workshop- get it stripped, get the Ac removed, repair rusty nuts and powder coat the steel. and think long term about the battery.

thanks again
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top