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Discussion Starter #1
Over the last couple weeks, I've noticed a change in my Insight. Where it's always had almost no perceptable rolling resistance, now I'm finding there is definately more. Used to be if I came to a stop and let off the brake, unless I was on perfectly level ground the car would immediately start to roll. Now, it'll coast to a gentle but definate stop, and stay there. My mileage is also down about 5mpg.

I haven't had any of the wheels off, the tire air pressure is 40psi (where I always set it) and I don't get the feeling it's brakes not releasing because I don't hear any brake noise at all. I'm thinking a problem wheel bearing, or even possible some malfunction in the charging circuit that's trying to charge the battery all the time? Battery SOC seems consistant with how it's always been though.

Anybody experienced this problem before?

Presently, as I just have no time to dig into it myself, I have an appointment to take it into the dealer I bought if from tomorrow night. They've been really good to me, but I have this sense that this issue might be one that they won't understand or might have trouble troubleshooting. Any pointers would be very much appreciated.
 

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Wheel alignment is a known drag factor.

And one that will incrementally reduce MPG depending on the amount of misalignment. No way to "know" except to do the work. Here's one post on the topic. There are others. If your interested search on "alignment" (no quotes).

Alignment
http://www.insightcentral.net/forum/vie ... php?t=3729

HTH! :)
 

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have your bearings checked
 

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If it is a bearing or brake that is causing the friction you may be able to tell by touching the aluminum rims and sensing heat buildup. A simple check would be to jack or hoist the car so that you could spin the wheels by hand to check for resistance.

I had a rebuilt caliper that failed to retract properly on my old CRX. The rim got so warm that there was a burning rubber smell and the bolts holding the wheel on loosened up. :shock: (I was driving in the middle of nowhere when this happened.)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'll be mentioning wheel bearings, brakes and alignment when I drop the car off. Normally I'd try to figure this out on my own, but I've been working some late hours recently and I just don't feel like trying to work on it late at night. Besides, I have an extended warranty and whatever's wrong just might get fixed for free.

I will try checking the temperature of all 4 wheels after a drive, didn't think of that.

I'll be sure to post back with the results. Thanks for the feedback.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Results

Picked up Iggy from the dealer (Hardin Honda, Anaheim CA) yesterday evening. I'd written out a detailed description of the problem, so the mechanic wouldn't have to hear it second hand, and the service adviser attached my notes with the paperwork.

Turns out they were not able to locate the source of the problem, however they did seem to really try. They checked, and documented on the work order, "Inspected brakes, tires, tire pressure, suspension, tire wear/alignment, bearings, drivetrain, axels, shafts and hub bearings. All okay"

At least now if a problem develops in the near future, I can show Honda that I had it in and was concerned earlier. However, interestingly enough, I'm not noticing the problem like I was before, so who knows what's really going on.

They also only billed me for a half hours labor for the above inspections. It would have taken me half a day at least to do all that in my driveway.
 

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Re: Results

devin1955 said:
They also only billed me for a half hours labor for the above inspections. It would have taken me half a day at least to do all that in my driveway.
A reasonable charge for visual inspections. However, I don't know of any mechanic's vision that's precise enough for a visual alignment inspection :!:

Yes, you can accurately evaluate tire wear for wear _history_ to reasonably determine if it has (past tense) been running out of alignment. But if the shift has occured recently there won't be sufficent wear for this inspection to have any merit. There are also several scuff gauges (drive over) that can give a _better_ (but still not fool proof) indication.

I suspect it was the driver's estimation that something was "wrong" that may prove to be in error. IMO evaluation of a cars rolling resistance by the seat of your pants is even less accurate than a visual alighment check.

Your MPG's will ultimately tell the rest of the story.

HTH! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
They did ask how many miles were on the tires. I haven't hit anything, so it would be unusual for the alignment to get knocked out of whack suddenly.

My 2 clues that something had changed were that when I leave for work in the morning and pull out of my garage, the tiny amount of slope in the floor was enough that the car will start rolling backwards as soon as I press the clutch. It wouldn't do that anymore. Also, when rolling to a stop, before it would roll, and roll, and roll, until it finally came to a gentle stop. When I took it in, it would come to a quicker and more definate stop. It seems now to be almost the same way it used to be. :?

I'm still at a loss, but it seems better now, and if something does happen, maybe my record of having all that stuff "checked" will do me some good.

We shall see.
 

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if you have a smooth level place, like a garage, you can try the "bathroom scale rolling resistance" test. Put the scale up against the bumper with a towel in between, and push the car gently across the floor. Depending on the scale you may have to hold it sideways to get it to read zero when not pushing.

It's really hard to get a good reading (which shows the difficulty of any sort of lab test situation), but in my case it was around 20 pounds. At worst this would be a baseline for future reference.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks Dougie, I should try to get a similar reading. Do you have RE92 tires? What pressure? Just gotta find a level spot and a scale.

There's still something wrong with my car. I've noticed another couple clues. Last week after a 100 mile drive my front wheels were too hot to hold my hand on, and in moderate stop-and-go driving my SOC is running much lower than normal. More than once I've noticed it below half, which has never happened before unless I was climbing continuous grade (or fighting unusual friction?).

I feel pretty certain the trouble is in the front end. Could be brakes. I have a new set of pads on their way and will eliminate that possibility. The pads are ready to be replaced anyway. The dealer said they noticed no glazing when they did their inspection, and I don't hear any noises that would suggest the front brakes are dragging. I'm thinking the wheel bearings would have to be really messed up to cause what I'm feeling. Also, the transmission, but the problem is apparent when it's out of gear, so that would suggest to me that it's not the transmission.

If someone could try touching their front wheels after a long drive like I did, on a warm day, and report how hot theirs were that might be a clue.

Any thoughts would be welcome.

I hate to just hand the car over to the dealer and let them run the tab up, however, I am still under warranty for the engine and drivetrain.
 

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Easy enough to check whether the brakes are dragging. Just jack up the car and try to spin the wheel. It should turn completely freely with no brake contact at all.
 

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All _VERY_ subjective tests (except the brakes dragging). Even the MPG meter can be tricky to interpret. But given a known route and compairing similar days of temperature, weather and traffic its the one "tool" that's built in to the Insight for such a "job". Which strangely enough you've not posted any data about.

Hmmm...
 
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