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post 422 on this forum looks like the most simple explanation.

okay some questions.

1. you dont actually cut any of the insight wires, you just strip some of the plastic off and solder in the hack board wires? so you have the continuous insight wire unbroken, then just attached to the wire is the hack board

2. on the 'J1' connector on the hack board, how can you tell which is wire 1 and wire 12? as you can plug the plastic connector in either way up. i dont want to wire it all correctly and plug the board backwards. if in backwards (would i kill something?)

3. can you replace the fuse without having to take the battery out? does your hand fit? no the end of the world taking the battery out, will have to get someone to help me lift it

what i will probably do is take some pictures of the connectors on the BCM and the MCM and the board. and post on here to make sure i 100% know what im doing before i have a go at it
 

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Discussion Starter #462
1. Correct

2. Looking at the board front with resistors and with the connector on the left.
The top is pin 1 bottom is pin 12

3. Not really you have to dremmel a bit of plastic away to make it fit, it's bigger than the standard one. You need to take it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #463 (Edited)
Current Hack Owners Manual

Another in a series of instructions etc for those wanting a current hack based on the stuff in this thread. Like all my manuals it's a work in progress.

Anyone contemplating any sort of IMA modifications like this should have the full workshop manuals for the car.
They are vital to check connections and for fault finding etc.

You can get them from Helm or e-bay.
 

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Hello

It has taken me a while to get around to it.

Just fitted the 150a Fuse.

I have the circuit board diagram and soldering iron all set up with the correct Sil connectors.

Im only missing one bit of information now.

The connectors into the MCM and BCM are referred to as 'connector B' etc, with the colour of wires.

I dont own the service manual, can someone help me out which a diagram showing which connectors are 'A' and 'B' etc?
 

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Okay after digging through the service manual (seems you can get it in PDF format for free)

on picture 108 onwards, it shows you which plugs are which,

so when your looking backwards from the drivers seat:

MCM leftmost plug is D rightmost plug is A
BCM leftmost plug is B rightmost plug us A
 

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Please add the following text to the manual to make it easier:

Plug Position

The plugs on the MCM and BCM are referred to as 'PLUG A', 'PLUG B' etc.
This related to the service manual, but in summary:

When your looking backwards from the drivers seat:

- The MCM is the box furtherest to the left
- The BCM is the box to the right of the MCM
- The MCM leftmost plug is D, its rightmost plug is A
- The BCM leftmost plug is B rightmost plug us A

Wire numbering on the plugs

- The MCM plugs have small numbers to tell you the number of the wires, these do no correlate to the wiring diagram, the following shows you the translation of the plug numbering to the wiring diagram, the numbers on the left show what the wiring diagram says, the number on the right correlates with the number on the plugs (the small numbers):

(This list was created by bluesight forum member - hero!)

MCM Connector A
11 - 1
10 - 2 LT GRN (FSC)
09 - 3 BLK/YEL (MAMODE2)
08 - 4 YEL/RED (MOTSTB)
07 - 5
06 - 6 YEL/BLK (PDUFAN)
05 - 7 WHT (PDUFANH)
04 - 8 GRY/RED (PRE)
03 - 9 BLK/YEL (IG1) ***Use this***
02 - 10 BLK (PG1) ***Use this***
01 - 11 PNK/BLU (IGA1)
24 - 12
23 - 13 GRN/WHT (FOT)
22 - 14 LT GRN/RED (ABSBUSY)
21 - 15 BLU/WHT (MOTFSB)
20 - 16 BLU/RED (MOTFSA)
19 - 17
18 - 18 RED/WHT (WARN)
17 - 19
16 - 20
15 - 21 BLU/BLK (CNT)
14 - 22
13 - 23 BLK (PG2)
12 - 24 BRN/YEL (LG1)
32 - 25 BRN (SCS)
31 - 26
30 - 27 GRN/BLK (DVINH)
29 - 28
28 - 29
27 - 30
26 - 31
25 - 32
---------------------------------
MCM Connector B
08 - 1 PNK/BLU (IGA2)
07 - 2 YEL/BLK (IGHLD)
06 - 3
05 - 4
04 - 5
03 - 6 GRN (IWPH) ***Use this***
02 - 7 RED/BLU (IVPH) ***Use this***
01 - 8 WHT (IUPH) ***Use this***

18 - 9 BRN/YEL (LG2)
17 - 10 WHT/RED (VBU)
16 - 11
15 - 12
14 - 13 YEL/BLU (TDV)
13 - 14 BLU/RED (TD)
12 - 15
11 - 16 ORN (VPIN)
10 - 17
09 - 18 YEL/BLK (IPIN) ***Use this***
25 - 19 RED/BLK (SG9) ***Use this***

24 - 20
23 - 21 BRN (SG
22 - 22 GRY (SG7)
21 - 23 BLU/ORN (SG6)
20 - 24
19 - 25 RED/YEL (SG4)
---------------------------------
MCM connector C
10 - 1 BLU/YEL (ENGTRQ)
09 - 2 BLU/BLK (CMDPWR)
08 - 3
07 - 4 BLU/WHT (VSS)
06 - 5 YEL/BLK (ACTTRQ)
05 - 6 LT GRN/RED (UL)
04 - 7 BLU/BLK (UH)
03 - 8
02 - 9 BLU/ORN (METSCI2)
01 - 10 WHT/BLU (METSCI1)
22 - 11
21 - 12 RED/YEL (MAMODE1)
20 - 13
19 - 14 BLU (NEP)
18 - 15
17 - 16 PNK (QBAT)
16 - 17 YEL/RED (VL)
15 - 18 BLK/ORN (VH)
14 - 19
13 - 20 LT BLU (TXD/RXD)
12 - 21 WHT (BATTSCI2)
11 - 22 ORN (BATTSC1)
31 - 23
30 - 24 GRN/WHT (VCC7) ***Use this***
29 - 25 YEL (VCC6)
28 - 26 YEL/BLU (VCC5)
27 - 27 GRY/RED (WL)
26 - 28 BLK/YEL (WH)
25 - 29 GRN/BLK (VCC4)
24 - 30
23 - 31

The BCM uses the same method as above (counting from the bottom right, moving leftwards.) so the first wire you need is the 4th wire from the bottom right (red/white). The second wire is the 14th wire which is on the second row from bottom which is brown yellow (in the corner).

Table


I copied the table from post 422 on this thread, (Thanks Pascal28!) which gives you a handy simplified table with the correct wire colours, this table uses the wiring diagram, but as a novice user, i used the numbering of the plugs to identify the wire as shown above.

i transcribed the data from above into that table as the most friendly way to go about this mod.

So below is the easiest way to approach this:

 

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From what I can read here, I can't determine if a 175 or 200 amp fuse should be used if you want to really increase current to the max.

Is it worth trying to fit the 200 amp, or will I never come close to 200 amps and 175 amp is more suitable and easier to fit? Or should I just fit the 200 amp for future proofing as I have a lithium-ion battery and could potentially push 200 amps.
 

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Discussion Starter #468
175A is fine..

You won't push more than that, or if you do it will be because the IGBT is on fire and the IMA rotor has demagnetised... :)

150A would probably be enough in practise..
 

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The description of how it works, schematic and resistor selection matrix has already been published in this thread, that's all you need to build it. Check back a few pages.

I might try +50% if it doesn't blow up at +44%!

The even number Mcm/Phase resistors between 1-16 on my board are 1k +30% Relays Off (Default)
The odd number Mcm/Phase resistors between 1- 16 on my board are 560R +44% Relays On

The even numbered Battery current sense resistors 18 & 20 on my board are 240R + 30% Relays Off
The odd numbered Battery current sense resistors 17 & 19 on my board are 130R + 44% Relays On

You can copy that if you want.
Trying to confirm the correct resistor values to buy. The ones retepsnikrep recommended to buy above seem to be different than the ones in the schematic I attached.

Which ones should I buy?
 

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How exactly did you guys cut into the insulation off the insight wires to solder to the wire? Did you just use a razor blade and carefully scrape off a little insulation, or just enough to expose the wire then solder to it?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #472
I use cutters to strip back some insulation. Then solder... :)
 

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Has there been any before/after testing of this done yet, to see how much faster the car is?
 

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I think those links you posted go to your private editing page?
 

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Ah thanks! Good to know about the youtube tags


retepsnikrep, Do you have a before graph? Pretty nice to see the dyno numbers.
 

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Found a discrepancy? If you look at the post in the link below, you will see the user claims to use the 30% hack. However, he put resistors in the odd number resistor locations, or R1, R5, R9, R13, R3, R7,R11,...

I believe he put in the relays for easy upgrading down the road for the 44% hack, I will do the same. The relays I believe are not active.

Based on schematics of this board, in the 30% current hack only, it calls for resistors in the Even number locations.

Could someone comment on why he has the resistors in what seems to be the
44% current hack locations?

2nd question is does anyone know the resistor value for the R21 location?

Thanks,


http://www.insightcentral.net/forums/modifications-technical-issues/16206-inside-g1-mdm-more-power-45.html#post537225

In this post, retepsnikrep says to use 1K resistors in between even 1-16 locations for 30%.

http://www.insightcentral.net/forums/modifications-technical-issues/16206-inside-g1-mdm-more-power-33.html#post271595
 

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Just to add to that last post, someone else put the 30% resistors on what seem to be the correct locations. You can see in the link I posted below.

The problem with verifying any of this is that the schematic uses 1K and 2k2 resistors, and even has the 1K resistors in the odd numbered locations. This is what I would think is confusing the person in the link in the above post.

Take a look at the schematic attached to this post, it shows 1K resistors in the odd locations, but those should really be 560, because I guess this was changed and the schematic has not been updated?

http://www.insightcentral.net/forums/modifications-technical-issues/16206-inside-g1-mdm-more-power-43.html#post503465
 

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