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Discussion Starter #61
Maybe. It's possible the car is simply insane. I honestly am not too sure. But when it is hot what's coming out of the funnel is steam more than exhaust.

The one thing that bugs me is the lack of heat and intermittent heat. That's always been a bad water pump. Maybe I'll pull it tomorrow just to play with it or something.
 

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No heat or partial heat is usually "AIR in System". Is the heater valve working? Need a visual inspection. It can be seen moving from the open to the close position.
Here is some good info:
 

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Discussion Starter #64
So what's the answer: Well I went outside, pumped it up to 20psi, then pulled the plugs, hopped in, and cranked it.

boom Coolant sprayed out of #2 in a fine mist.

Looks like the head is warped at #2 cylinder, putting the new gasket in probably held it for a thousand miles, then it started leaking again. Any pressure in the water system at the cylinders is probably enough to stall the pump and shut down the cooling circuit until the water boils.

Guess it's time to close up the car for the winter and think about what to do in the spring. I could have the head shaved, but that would probably screw up the compression ratio. Likewise it could be the cylinder sleeve that's warped. Not sure I'm really hot on replacing the engine, at this stage it's replacing the known problems with a whole new set of things....

Ah well. Much thanks to everyone, the key to finding this was the slightly lower compression readings in #2 coupled with the pressurization of the water circuit while cranking the engine with plugs out.

Now to think about where to go from here.
 

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All you need to do is have the head surfaced, not shaved.
 

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Congratulations (?) on narrowing it down!

I am curious, what is your theory on how the system is able to hold 20 PSI pressure for an extended period? Is the leak really slow, and cranking with the plug out blew out coolant that slowly dripped into #2?

It sounds like the radiator pressure tester ended up being a worthwhile investment, but in an unexpected way. Your approach of applying pressure while cranking was instructive. How long had it been under pressure before you cranked it (ie, how long did it take for coolant to accumulate)?

I have wondered if a coolant reservoir level monitor might be a worthwhile project. I wonder if monitoring the cycling between hot and cold coolant levels might help with detection of a problem before it leads to damage?
 

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Pull the head and have it surfaced. They won't take off more than they need to. It isn't going to affect the compression ratio.

Sam
 

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Discussion Starter #68
Congratulations (?) on narrowing it down!

I am curious, what is your theory on how the system is able to hold 20 PSI pressure for an extended period? Is the leak really slow, and cranking with the plug out blew out coolant that slowly dripped into #2?

It sounds like the radiator pressure tester ended up being a worthwhile investment, but in an unexpected way. Your approach of applying pressure while cranking was instructive. How long had it been under pressure before you cranked it (ie, how long did it take for coolant to accumulate)?

I have wondered if a coolant reservoir level monitor might be a worthwhile project. I wonder if monitoring the cycling between hot and cold coolant levels might help with detection of a problem before it leads to damage?
Beats the daylights out of me. And to be honest this answer merely opens another question: Why did the car overheat? Chicken, egg.

I left it under pressure overnight. And it is still bugging me that even a very small head gasket leak is enough to completely stall the water pump and bring the amount of circulating coolant to absolute zero. The car boils within minutes, and it's not exhaust, it's a geyser of steam.... I can't believe the water pump on this car is that weak. Then again maybe it is.....
 

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I’m having exact same problem. Thermostat seizes closed? I don’t hear the fan go off but if coolant is cold down there I guess it wouldn’t. I’m going reread the posts to see if I missed something. I bled it last time really well but I didn’t have good coolant. I did put Honda coolant but didn’t burp well. Make a long story short overheated and filled with gas station coolant to get home. Probably messed up thermostat by making it stick?


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Discussion Starter #70
Note that I re-tested all of my thermostats and they were all good. Something else is up. Too cold really to work on the car but I did remove three bolts on the water pump bridge to see if I can get it and the pump out for inspection over the winter. Is there a fourth bolt holding the bridge on (the pump itself can't be removed from its bridge/housing as one of the bolts is stripped, of course)
 

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Ok, I think my issue may have been rectified. The crappy coolant formed deposits that I scraped off, oh never again (next time I’ll put straight water before I put garbage coolant).
Hopefully I can get something to add in to flush the junk out and refill with Honda coolant.

When it’s cool the fam doesn’t go on? I let car run for a good while. Going to let it cool then start the process again to try and get ALL of the air out. I left funnel connected in hopes that it will go down and displace air bubbles.


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I burped it. I’m going to pick up some coolant system flush. Any recommendations? Also, is there a drain plug on the engine as well so that I can drain all of the fluids put?


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There is a "Block" plug on the rear part of the cylinders,
 
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