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You have other cars, maybe try swapping out the temp sensor to see if the high reading moves to the other car with the sensor? If it still reads 240 and the donor car reads about 200 then you know it is an accurate temp reading and there really is a problem. Was this a gradual build up in temp or just one day "bam" it jumped up to 240?

As for why you aren't getting any hot air out of your heater vents after all the testing you did I'm not sure. Sounds like you have a flow restriction somewhere, I'm thinking in the block or the manifold as it comes out of the block. Keep us updated with what you find.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Randall, please forgive me if I have misrepresented anything. I really appreciate you making your detailed drawing and explaination available on this thread!
No harm at all.:D
I used the parts pages for the images so owners could see what each part of the system looked like if they were under the hood trying to figure it out.

Your talking to the best here already, so I can't add anything to the solution.:D

Randall
 

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Success!

I swapped ECT sensors between the two cars and it made no difference for either car. I then did the purge and fill tube/funnel routine a couple more times with the heater on and at the max temp and fan on high and it made no difference.

I deduced that there had to be something clogging up flow 8 in the water outlet cover for it to impact both the heater core and the coolant flow across the thermostat. I drained the coolant from the radiator and then filled it with water, I then poured radiator cleaner into the fill tube. After several minutes, the heater started working for the first time in weeks. I drove around for 45 minutes with the radiator cleaner and heater on most of the time. The ECT stayed in the 192-204 range. I drained the radiator cleaner followed with a couple rounds of water to flush it all out and then a final fill with antifreeze. It was easy to get the heater pumping hot air into the cabin after each fill. Not that hard to do when all the plumbing is clear!
 

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So a clogged heater core for sure, but I run with my heater core inlet valve turned off all the time in the summer and never go over 203. I'm thinking you had a partially blocked head passage or some other coolant hose or possibly the radiator somewhere?

Good to see you got it working again!
 

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My best guess is that one or more passages were clogged in the water outlet cover. Maybe a common point that would impact multiple out-flows including flow to the heater core? That would explain having two symptoms, no cabin heat and 240 degrees at the ECT sensor, that were both solved simultaneously by circulation of radiator cleaner throughout the cooling system.
 

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Sorry, but I was not perceptive to the number of bars. It just didn't look to be very high on the scale and it wouldn't have caused alarm on my part if not for the high reading on the OBDIIC&C gauge.

I built my own gauge and it seems to be working perfectly but I've never heard an audible alarm or seen the red LED light. I'm hoping those features are working because I would have thought 240 degrees would be high enough to trigger some response from the gauge. I saw the threshold temperature posted somewhere but I can't find that post right now.

Since the car seemed to be regulating the temperature at 240 degrees, I'm wondering what damage would have occurred if I kept driving the car for an extended period. If damage was likely, then I wish the OBDIIC&C would have been sounding an alarm!
 

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I'm hoping those features are working because I would have thought 240 degrees would be high enough to trigger some response from the gauge.
Grovelling Apology!!

I was intrigued by this and had a look at my latest code.
It looks like the water temp alarm feature has been missing in action since last June when I did the last major re-write. :(

See the OBDIIC&C main thread for an updated version!
This affects every version since last June and includes V4 and upwards!

FYI The Alarm Led and piezo (if beep enabled) comes on at > 102C (Well it should do!)
 

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Grovelling Apology Accepted!!

Peter, Grovelling apology accepted. Even though this feature has been MIA since last June, the OBDIIC&C gauge may have just saved my engine!!!

My troubleshooting and consulting fees will be another OBDIIC&C PCB and software license for my second car.

This is just an example of how important it is to monitor the engine and IMA parameters using the scan gauge and not rely solely on the automobile's dumb gauges. If I understand correctly, the ETC needs to be displayed for the temp alarm feature to be activated? It may take a while for someone to notice an out-of-bounds ECT display, so having the temp alarm feature activated at the first indication of a problem is a nice feature. Hence my desire for another OBDIIC&C gauge for my second Insight and even more important with someone less astute driving. I will load the new code to my existing gauge ASAP.

If no one has already done experimentation for determining the Insight's temperature bar calibration relative to actual engine coolant temperature, then I will take on the challenge and post the results back to this tread. My perception is the engine would likely be destroyed long before reaching the final two bars, where the foreground color changes from orange to RED!!!!

Maybe someone has experience with reaching the final two bars so they can speak to whether or not their engine was damaged. There's bound to be a few owners having engines damaged due to overheating. Someone may even have the record for damaging the most Insight engines due to overheating?
 

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Overheating

Mine has shown the red bars twice. I shut off the engine and coasted, then restarted and drove home. I replaced the thermostat, but seem to have a leak and/or clog. Still troubleshooting where, will keep story going.
 

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Sick Radiator fins

The previous postings regarding cooling are very informative.

I currently don't have any immediate cooling problems, however have observed that the fins on my radiator are starting to show signs of dropping off near the top if disturbed although the cores currently are OK and not leaking.

Just wondered if anyone else had seen similar and any recommendations regarding most economic source here in the UK.

It's my intention to flush/clean system in the spring prior to replacing radiator as a precaution before we get a Heatwave!;)

W522 SLE 2000 - OBDIIC&C + Rad Block 66000mls best mpg 82.7
 

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So, if I'm reading the diagram correctly, if you splice in a "tank style" block heater inline with the hoses that run to the heater core, the system should circulate coolant through the head and block?

I'm suprised no one here has installed a tank style heater yet. Lots of discussion on the OEM unit, but nothing concrete.
 

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Have a look at Roger Crier on here and his hot frog device ;)

Also look at discussions about vacuum flask heat conservation etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #39

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Discussion Starter #40 (Edited)
Discrepancy bewteen Parts diagrams and Service Manual

It has been brought to my attention that there exists a discrepancy between the Service Manual and the Parts pages from Honda on this subject.
Thanks Sean:D

On page 10-4 of the SM, the hoses going into and out of, the Idle Air Control Valve (IAC) or reversed from the parts diagrams.

I don't think this makes any difference in real time.
As a matter of fact, when I installed my satellite coolant pump, I used the parts diagram path. No problems or codes.
Randall
 
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