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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Rear Speaker Installation without oem kit:
2000 Insight


The install is done, and I have photos. Details to be added here in following posts.
I beg your patience while I add the rest of my material to this thread, over the coming few days.

Here's a photo of the speaker installed on the panel behind the seat. Nice, eh?
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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Speakers I used

I used Infinity Reference REF-6532ex speakers.
If you're reading this a few years from now, that model might not be available.
Crutchfield has been a top choice for car speakers for me for many years. They've known what fit every car I've ever looked up.

Crutchfield offered rear speakers for the Gen 1 Insight ONLY for cars that had factory speakers installed.
My Insight had the cutouts in the sheet metal, plastic blanking caps over the holes, and wires with a plug on the end. No speakers and no grills.
But I've installed more than a few speakers, and I have a half decent tool kit - so I decided to go ahead.

Crutchfield included the wire harness adapters when I ordered the speakers.

You will need either the wiring harness adapter kits for the speakers, or you’ll need to fabricate electrical connections from the wires-with-connector that are in the car, to the connector tabs on your speakers. The harness adapter kit is a simple thing, a connector that mates to the one on the car, a short length of speaker wire, and slip-on connectors that fit on the speaker terminals. All pre assembled into one piece. One per speaker.

Tools I used:
Safety goggles. A must-use item. I know a guy who lost an eye using a rotary cutter professionally (Dremel type tool). You’ll be using one of those cutters on this install.
Black permanent marker
Box cutter knife with a sharp blade
Punch awl
Philips and flat blade screwdrivers
Drill, for drilling and screwdriving
Pickle fork tool for popping off plastic fasteners.
Ruler or tape measure
Dremel-type rotary grinder tool.
Dremel cutoff wheels #426. From H.D. or a hardware store or Amazon etc.
Leather punch - for punching screw holes in the carpet. The back layer is basically a rubbery gluey material and it does NOT like rotating tools like Dremel or drills.
You probably could substitute a sharp knife for the leather punch but the result won't be nearly as quick, or as clean.

Here's a photo of the Dremel cutoff wheels, #426. You'll be cutting aluminum with them. Don't bother with lower cost alternatives.

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Here's a photo of the leather punch from Harbor Freight. Under $10.
Use the largest punch on the wheel.

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
I recommend you do one side of the car at a time.
The first step is to peel the carpeting away from the sides. You only need to uncover about a foot of the rear panel because the speaker holes are near the sides of the car.
Pop off the fasteners at the bottom of the carpet. Then at the top, pull it out from under the plastic trim at the sides. After installation, I was able to convince the carpeting to go back under the trim, so I didn't need to remove the trim. I tried using the chisel to pop off a fastener but I don't recommend it. Use some kind of fork-pronged tool, or a flat blade with lots of patience. This is the right side, passenger side in the US. The rectangular grill is for the battery cooling system air intake.
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Pulling the carpeting away from the right side trim panel.
[My browser put up a "sensitive content' warning for this photo - go figure.]
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Here's the speaker hole's cover panel pulled down, showing the speaker wires with the connector clipped to the back of the cover panel. Detach the connector from the panel and set the panel aside. I ultimately discarded the panels after installing the speakers.
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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Now, flip the carpeting back into position. No need to tuck it under the plastic trim or attach the lower fasteners at this point.
Use the punch awl to find the edges of the hole and mark your circle with the marker.
Remember some extra metal was punched out just outside the circle - so don't be fooled if your punch pushes into one of those extra openings. Just mark the circle to be cut.
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Cut the circle using the box cutter and scissors. Knife first, to get your cut started.
Be aware there's nearly a half inch of fluff lightly glued to the back of the carpeting.
The knife won't cut the fluff easily so don't frustrate yourself.
I cut through the white fluff with scissors.
ALSO:
I found I needed to remove about a 3/4" band of white fluff around the hole I cut in the carpet - because sending screws through the fluff was nearly impossible. The photo of that is from the driver's side speaker, the second one that I did. That way the screws only go through the carpet, not through the white fluff.
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Then scissors.
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Below you see the other side of the car, while I'm removing a band of fluff surrounding the cut hole in the carpet -
That's so the screws don't have to go through the fluff. Trying to do that makes a nasty mess.
Much better to cut away the fluff.
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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Here's an important sequence for which I have no photos.

Marking the drilling locations
in the sheet metal:
With the carpeting flipped to the side:
Set your speaker against the hole in the sheet metal, centering it so it can sit perfectly flat.
If you want, rotate it as needed to orient any writing, right side up.
Note the two spots where the sheet metal is recessed - at about 10:30 and 4:30 positions.
You don't want to have screws going into those areas, so rotate the speaker a bit if needed.
Mark the locations with a permanent marker. Right in the centers of the speaker's screw holes.

Drill the holes.
Use a bit that's slightly larger than the diameter of the screws. That will help accommodate any slight error in the drilling locations. The screws will bite the U-clips (aka J-clips), not the holes you drill.

Adjustments for the U-clip dimensions:
For these Infinity Reference speakers in this car, I needed to cut the U-clips, and also the car's sheet metal.
Here's why:
The U-clips aren’t long enough to reach the holes you are drilling.
So I needed to shave away some sheet metal, letting the clip slide in further.
I could not find longer clips that would match the screws that came with the speaker. Not here in the US.
(I could have bought new screws AND matching U-clips, at a price.)
So it was far easier to cut away some metal with the rotary grinder.

Here you see the sheet metal trimmed away at the screw holes.
Also, IMPORTANT - bits of electrical tape holding the U-clips in place.
Even after I pinched them tighter with pliers, they kept slipping off. I lost one or two down into the cavity.
TAPE those little suckers into place, but not over the actual screw holes.
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About cutting the U-clips:
You'll need to round the ends of the clips.
Because the drilled hole is too close to the raised (non-recessed) part of the metal panel.

Hold the U-clip in a Vise Grip pliers and grind it down a bit. Test that it fits.
See the photos above and below for the shortened version.
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Below is a U-clip with the end rounded off.
BUT here, I didn't yet trim away the sheet metal -
So the clip won't yet slide on far enough to meet the hole location - the round black dot.
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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Marking the hole locations in the carpet:

Sorry, no photos of these steps.
You still don't have the speakers in position.
That's fine.
Flip the carpet back into position, and probe with the punch awl to find the screw holes in the sheet metal.
Use the awl to make an impression for each screw hole in the carpet.
Mark the spots with the permanent marker.
Punch the four holes with the leather punch.
[After punching many holes, you'll eventually need to remove the punch's center cap and ream out the punch tube.]
If your hole ends up slightly off from where it should be, just punch again to get it right. The speaker rim will cover minor errors in screw hole locations.

[more to come in this thread, when I’m able to give it some time again]
 

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The speakers didn't have holes that lined up with the three square holes in the sheet metal? That's what I was going to do before I ripped out the interior. I even bought the little plastic things (#11 in the diagram) for the screws to bite into.
 

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I could not find longer clips that would match the screws that came with the speaker. Not here in the US.
I have been looking for that clip+screw for months, I have poured over diagrams, manuals and more, I can't find the name or even the dimensions of the clip.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The speakers didn't have holes that lined up with the three square holes in the sheet metal? That's what I was going to do before I ripped out the interior. I even bought the little plastic things (#11 in the diagram) for the screws to bite into.
The speakers I bought have four screw holes. Those holes didn’t match anything on the car. I didn’t get Honda’s plastic mount ring thing so I can’t guess what would happen if I tried to use one. But if it’s set up for three screws and the speaker uses four - that doesn’t look like a good match.

Once I get done with this writeup, you’ll see that my speakers are screwed down to the sheet metal, with the carpet in between. Actually, there’s a mount ring for the Infinity grill. So the screws first go through the grill ring, then the speaker “ears”, then through the carpet, and finally into the U-clips and the car’s sheet metal panel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Do you plan to put in a Sub? I bought 3 insights recently and plan to put together a good music experience in one.
No, I didn’t put in a sub. I have four of those 6.5” Infinitys, which will have to do. I’m sure a good sub makes it sound even better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
I have been looking for that clip+screw for months, I have poured over diagrams, manuals and more, I can't find the name or even the dimensions of the clip.
The clips and screws usually come with the new speakers.
If using old speakers and you don’t have them, hardware stores sell u-clips and j-clips. Some are made for sheet metal screws, and some have little threaded tubes for [edit] machine [/edit] screws. Also made for metric machine screws.
 

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The speakers I bought have four screw holes.
Ah, now it makes sense! The speakers I have in my collection have multiple sets of holes.
 

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Here a nice radio with OEM look for insight owners (the only one i have found that looks decent) if you want to upgrade your factory unit !! :

 

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I used these spacer rings I designed and printed to just casually toss some 6.5's in the back.
Still haven't cut the hole in the carpet, though, because I'm lazy.
 
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