Thanks all for the comments. I am really proud of the trailer.
Rick: If you need any help, contact me, I'll do all I can. I bought the material at a home hardware store. It was a 1inch per 6inch plank of a few feet long. To build exteriour decks.
Jim: When the OEM rubber spacer is set at it's new location, it is lower on the stub. The stub being conical, the spacer is a little loose. One could just leave it like that because it is not too bad. But I wanted things to be right.
The strip goes between the stub and the rubber spacer. It can not be straith because of the conical stub. It needs to be about 1 foot long and 1 inch wide (actually, same width as the rubber) and it is an arc. The middle of the arc is about 6 inch high.
Basically, I used a strong paper to create a template on the stub and then cut the plastic out of the plastic box (the plastic needs to be able to bend in a 3 inch "conical cylinder". It is why I used a rubbermaid box.
It did hold between the stub and rubber by itself (du to conical shape probably).
Also thanks for pointing out the corrosion x stuff. I did not find it near so I used white litium grease. It probably will not last as long. I'll check every 6 months.
b1shmu63: I used Frontpage
Figgy: It is pretty easy. Under the car, there are 6 clips that will need to be pulled out (flat screwdriver for the ones in the middle of the car and Phillips for the ones on the outside (wheel wells). For the bumper
3 bolts per side in the rear wheel spat. For the lights, one bolt per side into the car. You need to bend down the carpet behind the lights so you also need to remove the center plastic cover in the hatch area. Just pull it up. Two bolts on the outside (you can see the palstic covers in the rim of the lights. Once the lights are removed, it will show two more bolts per side on top of the bumper cover. So, the lights have 3 bolts, the bumper has 6 clips and 10 bolts
Rick: If you need any help, contact me, I'll do all I can. I bought the material at a home hardware store. It was a 1inch per 6inch plank of a few feet long. To build exteriour decks.
Jim: When the OEM rubber spacer is set at it's new location, it is lower on the stub. The stub being conical, the spacer is a little loose. One could just leave it like that because it is not too bad. But I wanted things to be right.
The strip goes between the stub and the rubber spacer. It can not be straith because of the conical stub. It needs to be about 1 foot long and 1 inch wide (actually, same width as the rubber) and it is an arc. The middle of the arc is about 6 inch high.
Basically, I used a strong paper to create a template on the stub and then cut the plastic out of the plastic box (the plastic needs to be able to bend in a 3 inch "conical cylinder". It is why I used a rubbermaid box.
It did hold between the stub and rubber by itself (du to conical shape probably).
Also thanks for pointing out the corrosion x stuff. I did not find it near so I used white litium grease. It probably will not last as long. I'll check every 6 months.
b1shmu63: I used Frontpage
Figgy: It is pretty easy. Under the car, there are 6 clips that will need to be pulled out (flat screwdriver for the ones in the middle of the car and Phillips for the ones on the outside (wheel wells). For the bumper
3 bolts per side in the rear wheel spat. For the lights, one bolt per side into the car. You need to bend down the carpet behind the lights so you also need to remove the center plastic cover in the hatch area. Just pull it up. Two bolts on the outside (you can see the palstic covers in the rim of the lights. Once the lights are removed, it will show two more bolts per side on top of the bumper cover. So, the lights have 3 bolts, the bumper has 6 clips and 10 bolts
