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Bearing around $10 for name brand, $2 for Chinese....
I guess I could have waited a few more minutes for your post - I found a Dorman idle pulley on Amazon for like $17, so I just got that. But looking up the bearing-only part # 6203RS there's a bunch of options, so maybe the next guy can do that... The Dorman idle pulley wasn't listed for the Insight, but the Insight part number cross references with the Dorman #. It appears to be the same idle pulley that's on first gen Fits...

I couldn't find the o-ring anywhere but Majestic (among the 3 places I looked, Amazon, Majestic, and Rockauto) - so I got the oil seal and o-ring from Majestic, like $14 including shipping. I found the seal at Amazon, comparably priced, so I could've gone that way, too. I got the belt and pulley (and also a clutch pilot bearing) off Amazon. The belt was a Continental 'ContiTech', $13. Free shipping for all this stuff. The clutch pilot bearing, incidentally, fyi, was only $9 for a Nachi, it was like $20 at Majestic, I think same brand. It was listed for an Acura or something like that, but the part number cross-referenced...

Anyway, I hate searching for parts, because of the vast differences in prices and stuff. Takes too much time. Hopefully some of this searching about helps others...

List of parts, numbers, and prices from Majestic Honda:

Oil seal (40X55X7)(Nok), 91212-PWA-003, $8.37
O-Ring (27.9X1.eight), 91301-PHM-003, $2.71
Oil seal collar, 13623-PHM-000, $13.57
Idle pulley, 38942-PWA-004, $40.92
Compressor Belt (Bando), 38920-PHM-003, $29.26
 

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So, when it comes to bearings, do you recommend buying the more expensive ones, is there a major difference (besides price)? Also, what are the brand names and what are the chinese ones to stay away from? I was thinking Nachi, NTN, and maybe 'National' are the OK brands, but I don't really know...
 

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If the original lasted 15 years, I'd want to put the same brand back in instead of trying to save 5 bucks. Koyo or Nachi are made in Japan and the ones I would use and what I've seen as OEM for the pulley and pilot bearing. The others may be sourced from China but you have to look at the package to tell.
 

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Dorman pulley will have a 75 cent Chinese bearing. OK for a year or two.
The image of the Dorman pulley has an NSK bearing in it, and when I search for where NSK bearings are made I come up with Japan...
 

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^ That's weird - when I searched Rockauto for a 2000 MY, it only showed/shows the Dayco $17 option for the "smooth" pulley, not the other two. I kind of like the plastic pulleys, probably lighter... There's no real difference in pulleys year to year, is there?
 

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List of parts, numbers, and prices from Majestic Honda:

Oil seal (40X55X7)(Nok), 91212-PWA-003, $8.37
O-Ring (27.9X1.eight), 91301-PHM-003, $2.71
Oil seal collar, 13623-PHM-000, $13.57
Idle pulley, 38942-PWA-004, $40.92
Compressor Belt (Bando), 38920-PHM-003, $29.26
I would like to keep those parts in stock for my car in the UK, but prices are triple over here. :(
Could someone get me a set and send them over cheapest post please.

Happy to add a few bucks for your time or a free OBDIIC&C pcb..
 

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I would like to keep those parts in stock for my car in the UK, but prices are triple over here. :( Could someone get me a set and send them over cheapest post please. Happy to add a few bucks for your time or a free OBDIIC&C pcb..
I'll do it, did it. I'll let you know when I get the parts - it should be in a couple weeks...
 

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Does anyone know what the torque spec for the balancer pulley bolt?
Last time I took it to the dealership but it only lasted 13k miles and started leaking again I think the seal might have inverted when they installed it. I would have done it my self but had trouble loosening the pulley bolt.
 

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This is going to sound very *******, but one way to loosen a super tight balancer pulley bolt is to put a socket and long breaker bar against the ground, frame rail or something solid, then "bump" the starter. I first read about this trick on an Isuzu Trooper forum. It worked great!
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 · (Edited)
Yes thats what i did use the engine to remove.

Why is torque so important? The bolt is tightening against a silid steel sleeve with the thin pulley sandwitched in between. The torque is taken up by the key way. You are not preloading a bearing. Just needs to be tight enought it does not loosen. As the link says and as most bolt threads workbyou need to be slightly passed the elastic limit to prevent vibration from loosening. Red locktite will give you the added grip if you worried you under torqued it.

I would use the procedure i posted link of if u want to do it by the spec but u will need the pulley holder
 

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Dorman pulley will have a 75 cent Chinese bearing. OK for a year or two.
The image of the Dorman pulley has an NSK bearing in it, and when I search for where NSK bearings are made I come up with Japan...
You were right on the cheap bearing, the Dorman pulley has some no-name brand Chinese bearing in it, not an NSK. Interestingly though, the idle pulley I bought from Honda, to send to Peter P., has an NSK bearing, says NSK and Japan...

I ended up buying a couple Nachi bearings for ~$11 total and returning the Dorman pulley... The actual pulley design is a little different, too, from the stock design. The bearing seats into a cup-shaped recess on the stock pulley, whereas it's just pressed into a hole for the Dorman...
 

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If you are going to replace the crankshaft seal you should also do the O-ring and take it off so as not to damage the new seal.
How critical do you think it is to replace the o-ring if, when removed, the o-ring doesn't look bad and feels flexible? That's the situation I'm in.

I ordered new o-rings but it looks like they're not in stock and they could take a long time to get here. It's already been a couple weeks. I decided to just take stuff apart and see what the o-ring looks like and maybe try to find something local (which I did but couldn't). The o-ring looks fine and feels flexible, but I realize it can be difficult to tell what a new o-ring should actually look like and feel like... So, I'm debating whether I should just reuse the original and put it all back together... I guess that's what I'm going to do unless I hear people saying I'm practically guaranteed a leak...


BTW, for others who might do this fix, the two holes in the collar ('spacer') are M3 0.5 pitch, so you can install that sized screws in and use them to pull out the collar before removing the oil seal. Also, it's not too difficult to make a two-pin like tool to hold the pulley while removing the big pulley/crank shaft nut, but it has to be metal (I tried two wood ones that just split). It took a lot of force to get that nut loose. I used a 16" breaker bar. I wasn't keen on on doing the 'bump the starter motor thing', as you'd need to hold the pulley anyway when you're ready re-torque it. Torque is supposed to be 14 ft lbs plus a 1/4 turn...
 
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