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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Background: This probably started shortly after or when I had a 12 battery problem but it might be useful to note I also have the wet seatbelt problem.. And since I have poor IMA battery codes that I am managing and waiting on a new battery. There are thread about all these. Most recently I killed my OBDII fuse trying to get flash codes, there is a thread on it as well. I have tried the SRS memory erase procedure but the light comes back.

Problem: I have an expired inspection LA(state) sticker. I'm unsure if I can pass it with the SRS light lit. Furthermore I want to address this SRS failure. First and foremost though the inspection sticker. Nothing shows up on a typical OBDII scan. The airbag light is lit so I am unsure if I can pass inspection as the state code says they need to test seat belts, it says nothing about airbags. I would rather go in with the light out.

Option 1: Pull the bulb to the light. I'm not sure I can even do this. I have found https://www.insightcentral.net/forums/modifications-technical-issues/14464-steering-wheel-removal-dash-face.html about pulling the display. Reading the online manual section, it is unclear to me if there are actual bulbs in there or if it is just led's driven by the A,B,and C connectors. The schematics make it look like an incandescent bulb, but I'm really not sure. So if y'all can let me know what I'm in for trying to temporarily disconnect it, i would appreciate it.

Option 2: Fix the problem. I have searched over the holiday but I am not find specifics on the problem beyond they SRS flash code listing that states that al 5-X,6-X,7-X, and 8-X are "Internal failure of the SRS Unit". The SRS unit flash code list does not link to troubleshooting procedures like other flashcode directories. (I think it was 7-3 but its written down in the car if it matters) So, I am a bit at a loss how to attack this. My best guess at this point is replacing the SRS unit. That, however is an expensive guess. Does anyone have ideas of how to trouble shoot this?

I trust you folk more than my local stealership that had trouble resetting the maintenance light. Any help is appreciated!
-Kirk
 

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I’ll try to do some reading in the shop manual tomorrow on SRS codes. We rarely see them, when we have seen them we have usually been able to fix the problem and use our Snap-On Verus to clear the code.

Scott
 

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Please post the verified SRS flash code. Note: The SRS light will illuminate even if you completely remove the SRS computer; the unit can only turn the light off (i.e. it's on unless the unit is happy). FYI: Fuse 6 (7.5 A) is what powers the SRS light (as well as many other things).

According to the manual, before troubleshooting SRS 5-1 through 8-6, you should verify battery/system voltage. The SRS unit is powered by fuses 1 (10 A) & 2 (15 A) in the underdash fuse box.

In regards to your other post (on shorting out the OBDII power), that is fuse 18 (7.5 A). However, if that fuse is blown out, you'll find the climate control panel doesn't work.
 

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It's an incandescent bulb. One of the 25 bulbs in the US MT gauge cluster!
 

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1) An OBDIIC&C can reset the SRS light as long as you have fixed any issue and it's not an uncorrectable SRS internal failure.

2) You can't read abs, srs, eps codes with generic OBDII readers. However an OBDIIC&C can read them as well as abs, eps codes.

I agree with Mudder.

Please post the verified flash code, in fact video it..
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Flash Codes

Codes I got when jumping the obd pins successfully..

SRS code was 7-3 this is the only one throwing a permanent light.

EPS: 22 (i can get this to light by trying to charge my battery in park at 3k+ on the tach for about 5 to 10 minutes.)
ABS: never see a normal warning light, 3-1,3-3,5-1, and 6-1 (sounds like I need my left rear checked.)
CEL:: 6-9 (no light currently but in stop and go traffic It will throw a P0A7F battery deterioration code)

Does the OBDIIC&C work when the jumper on the SRS service connector does not. I got it to blink the successful erase twice but the SRS light came back after plugging things back in and starting on both attempts. Is there anyone LA with an OBDIIC&C I can visit to give it a try?
For anyone stumbling upon this thread needing it linkie: SCS Service Connector and SRS Reset | Honda Accord DIY


I just went out to check the voltage via the Scan Guage II and 12.1v off. And 14 +- 0.3v with the engine running. Also my EPS light is staying on which is new as of today. I light it as described above charging the IMA battery. Ill check on the tires and associated fuses when work, weather and motivation align again. Ill also see about getting video of the flash codes which I will have to figure out how to host and post if that is still necessary.Further more I can run multi-meter to get a possibly more accurate battery voltage after work tomorrow when the sun is still up. Is the top blade or bottom blade the hot one; and where is a good place to use as ground around the interior fuse box?
 

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Problem: I have an expired inspection LA(state) sticker. I'm unsure if I can pass it with the SRS light lit. Furthermore I want to address this SRS failure. First and foremost though the inspection sticker. Nothing shows up on a typical OBDII scan. The airbag light is lit so I am unsure if I can pass inspection as the state code says they need to test seat belts, it says nothing about airbags.
Why don't you just call an inspection station and ask if it will pass with the light on? If it will, you can fix the problem later without being in a rush. Taking the bulb out is a pain. Remove the steering column upper trim hoping you dont break it. Drop the steering column. Remove the dash trim, with a 50/50 chance you will break it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
What voltage do you read on the OBDII's +12V pin?

The scan gauge plugs into the OBDII port so I would guess as reported
12.1v engine off
14v plus or minus 0.3v engine on.

I can take a MM to it tomorrow.
 

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Isn't 12.1 engine off with no loads considered a bad battery? Is it getting that voltage from another source that has a drop or is that the same voltage you'd get if you stuck a meter right on the terminals?

If that 12.1 is real then what I know about batteries says it's garbage.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
That low voltage on the battery is kinda what i was thinking. It's about 6 months old so I might have to talk to the pep boys and see what they say about a replacement.

In other news, we got a good rain going so its going to delay any other diagnostics for the next few days from what the weather folks are saying.

also EPS light went out after backing out and driving 10 feet.
 

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Isn't 12.1 engine off with no loads considered a bad battery? Is it getting that voltage from another source that has a drop or is that the same voltage you'd get if you stuck a meter right on the terminals?

If that 12.1 is real then what I know about batteries says it's garbage.
No, a judgement about battery quality can not be made from the terminal voltage, only the state of charge on the battery. The Insight treats 12V batteries very poorly, frequently leaving them at very low, largely discharged terminal values.

There are charts which show SOC versus terminal voltage. Google that term and you should be able to come up with one.

The only two tests of "quality" I know of are: 1. measurement of fully charged (by terminal voltage) specific gravity - impossible with sealed cells, and 2. load testing of the fully charged battery.

Later:

Here is a calculator of state of charge vs. terminal voltage for flooded batteries (i.e. Insights) and AGMs.

https://www.random-science-tools.com/electronics/lead-acid-battery.htm

The battery must be allowed to settle with absolutely no load for 6-8 hours minimum (i.e. the cables must be removed). As it turns out 12.1 is about 32% full, or 68% empty. If the neg cable was removed overnight, it might look more like 60% empty.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Weatherman lies.
After my drive home from work and about 15minutes of getting things in order I got the following readings with me digital Multi Meter.

12.67v all around ignition off. That is at OBD, Interior Fuse Bus and battery.
OBD with the ignition on 14.1Xv after a less than 10 second state at start of 13.7v that climbed. X was mostly 8 and 9.
 

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Hmm, sounds like you need to swap in a known-good SRS computer... time to get a safety Torx ;).
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Update

I finally got another SRS computer in the car. No Joy. Still get the 7-3 after a SRS reset. The old computer has what sounds like a screw rattling around inside. Yet, I had no symptom change with the new rebuilt computer.

For anyone doing this my '05 had regular torx bolts. Not security, I found this out after stripping one and destroying a security bit. Replacements from Honda are also plain old torx. They strip fairly easily and your local stealership prrobably has them because they are part of the airbag recalls according to my local parts guy.

I might have to submit to taking this to the stealership to get fixed. Unless anyone else has any bright ideas.

Regardless thanks for y'all's help.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
So after checking the 12v battery and swapping the computer I have given up and went with option one. Pulled the display and removed the SRS bulb so I can get it past inspection. Next week I will probably re-install the bulb and schedule to take it to the stealership. Hopefully they can figure out the problem but if nothing else I can get them to document that the computer is bad and get another from the re-builder.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
What is this thing and will polarization matter?

I finally passed inspection yesterday. The first attempt the O2 and cat tests had not set. Today I got the bulb put back in and decided to open my original, rattling computer. By that I mean it was rattling, like a screw was tossing around inside.

The rattling item looks like a small spool of coiled copper wire, a little bigger than a pencil eraser.. Se attached picture. I also snapped a shot of it laid where I found it came from; also attached. It's pretty much where the arrow next to the barcode is pointing.

So can someone tell me what it is? More importantly if it matters which direction I attempt to solder it back on?

Thanks for any help!
 

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I finally passed inspection yesterday. The first attempt the O2 and cat tests had not set. Today I got the bulb put back in and decided to open my original, rattling computer. By that I mean it was rattling, like a screw was tossing around inside.

The rattling item looks like a small spool of coiled copper wire, a little bigger than a pencil eraser.. Se attached picture. I also snapped a shot of it laid where I found it came from; also attached. It's pretty much where the arrow next to the barcode is pointing.

So can someone tell me what it is? More importantly if it matters which direction I attempt to solder it back on?

Thanks for any help!
It is a filter choke. If it only has two leads theoretically it shouldn't matter which way it is installed.

I'd say just solder the choke back onto the board and see if it works again.

That is an unusual situation to have a component fall off a PCB. You might want to check if any other parts are loose.
 
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