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I don't remember exactly what it bolts to, but it's either the IMA motor or a bracket or something attached to the IMA motor. The rivets aren't involved.

Sam
 

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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
This illustration appears to show the connection between the CVT flywheel (part 3) and the IMA motor connecting plate (part 6) that the bolts are bolted to. So I think I get it...
B

PS...This illustration shows 6 bolts....
 

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I think the issue is that if you don't unbolt the flywheel you'd have to "unstab" the mainshaft like you do a manual transmission car, and there isn't room to pull the transmission that far back. It's much easier to take it all out together.

Sam
 

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Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
Looks like I'm heading toward a DIY removal of the CVT. I found a place that rents the transmission jacks. Hopefully it will get low enough to pull the CVT out. One problem is weight of the CVT so it can be moved off the trans jack. Anyone have a weight estimate on the CVT (alone)? So far, the search didn't come up with a number.

B

PS... Answer - 142lb...Need a helper...
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
CVT removed and flywheel splines are GONE! I found a place that rented very nice transmission jacks, though they are heavy. CVT came out pretty well after doing some messing around to get the car higher and flatter than when I first jacked it up. Pictures show the CVT shaft (male) looks pretty much OK. What's left of the flywheel splines appears to be the little pile of rusted powder. I get the feeling that the Urea lubricant that Honda uses on these only lasts so long. It's a little hard to see, but the pictures of the flywheel (female) splines shows there really is nothing left. So I'm going to conclude that was the problem.I'll put on a replacement flywheel and hope for the best.

Used flywheels are available for ~$100. New ones start at ~$500. Still haven't heard from Scott on his options. I should try and get things back together next week, so delivery times will become an issue.

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Discussion Starter #26
It looks like the beefed up flywheels are no longer being fabricated. I now need to decide between a G2 Insight used flywheel (part #22100-RBJ-000), as recent as 2013, but more likely 2010, for about $100, or new OEM flywheels (part #22100-PHM-010) for about $530. Bluesight went 16 years and 207K miles on this flywheel, probably 100K miles more than what one of the used G2 flywheels have on them now. I definitely beat it up over the last 20K or so miles, but I don't put many more miles on with it only being used 4 months of the year, maybe 3K over a winter. Under normal circumstances, you'd maybe expect another 200K from a new flywheel. I'm not sure I'm expecting this car to make it another 50+ years. If I could get 30K from a used flywheel...wellll...maybe 10 years would be enough...

Think it's short sited to go the cheaper route?

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Well, you can get pictures before you buy it, so you can make sure the splines are ok. Then you can make sure to grease it and use a good o-ring.

Sam
 

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I would go with a G2 flywheel. It was designed to cope with a lot more HP, so hopefully it is better on "wear" resistance.

Willie
 

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Discussion Starter #30 (Edited)
Original mention (post). Driving at about 30. No bangs, booms, or any other noises that I recall. It just felt like it shifted to neutral and came to a rolling stop. Moving the shifter to R, N, D and L had no effect. Engine revved, but no motion. No check engine lights. No codes.

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Discussion Starter #31 (Edited)
I acquired a replacement flywheel from a 2010 Insight. On first glance, I had some concerns about the splines. But after a fairly thorough inspection, they look pretty pristine. And they were still showing lubrication. Main check is whether there was a ridge below the top of the splines at the open end (all that was left on my destroyed flywheel). Didn't detect anything, so I'm calling it good. Got the "seal" from Honda along with a lifetime (and then some) supply of Honda Urea grease...if you need some, maybe there is a way to share...

A few questions on getting the flywheel back on...1) What's the best way to remove the old seal? I'm thinking of drilling a hole in it to create a way to grab it with a screw or something. But there is hopefully a better trick. Then, 2) how to get the flywheel/shaft splines to line up. My initial attempts didn't work (though I didn't try too hard). One problem is that the shaft tends to spin, so unless you are right on at the start, it seems difficult (impossible?) to get things into the right position. I've considered attempting to shift the CVT to park. I'm concerned that it will engage an interlock that couldn't be unlocked without power to the tranny. Does anyone know about such issues, or, again, the trick to get that initial alignment correct?

I'm working on a trick to lift the CVT back into place. I didn't notice when removing it that it has a separate (CVT only) eyelet for raising and lowering. I ended up with a floor tranny jack. But with the eyelet and a piece of wood (found at our temporary home), along with a few odds and ends, I think I can hoist it into place. When I'm to the point that it actually works, I'll try to take some pictures. Total cost of this method is less than $30, mainly in the cost of 2 dual pulleys.

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Discussion Starter #32
Well, a quick test of my trick lift method didn't work. Problem is that the pulleys take up too much room under the board to lift the CVT to the full up position. I need another 2 to 3 inches. Back to the floor tranny jack...

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What about a cargo strap? Or maybe combine with a floor jack underneath?

Sam
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Like the pulleys, the cargo strap mechanism (and connected strap) takes up too much room under the board (tried it). Basically the lift point needs to be higher (or pulleys a lot smaller). A rented engine hoist would do it. Otherwise, a custom frame over the engine compartment. But, at this point, I might as well just rent the tranny jack again. It has more options for positioning.

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Take a cargo strap with the ratchet mech. and hook one end of the strap to the bar by the battery. Run the strap under, but not to the engine and hook the other end to the radiator support. Ratchet the belt and it should raise the transmission up.
HTH
Willie
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Good idea...I could see combining this with the pulley method. Once within that last couple inches, the strap can be used for pulling the CVT into final position. I expect a jack could do the same, but I don't have a spare jack at the moment. I have several cargo straps. Using just the strap seems like it might make it hard to balance the tranny as you lift it. It also seems it would put some fair amount of fore/aft tension on the body parts trying to lift from the floor.

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Discussion Starter #37
Well, I couldn't get the seal out without drilling it and using a screw to get some purchase on it. Then I tried installing the new one, and it didn't seem to go in as far as the old one was. Gave it a few taps (with a pen barrel), and it went in what appears to be too far. Drag!. It's hard to tell exactly where it is supposed to go, and there is no "natural" block for it continuing in. So, replacing the replacement part on Tuesday...

I think next time, once it is basically flush with the surface, I'm going to stop. Anyone else have experience with this?

B
 

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Be gentle my man and everything will work out. You can tell there is a slight bevel on the outer edge of the recess. Stop there, per the first picture. If you can, clean the shaft before installing seal.
 

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Discussion Starter #39 (Edited)
It was that last little tap that did me in...more gentle next time. And the shaft, shaft splines and flywheel splines are all cleaned off (as best I could). Waiting for the replacement replacement seal is the frustration...

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Discussion Starter #40
In other posts about the transmission flywheel, there are references to an O-ring(s). I assumed one might be on the shaft at the base of the splines to keep the lubricant sealed in the spline joint with the flywheel. But I see no part on the drawings of that type, though there seems to be a indent on the shaft where it might make sense to put one. The seal appears to only function to keep CVT fluid in the tranny. Doesn't seem to do anything to keep lube in the splines.

At this point, I'm assuming there is no o-ring. But please let me know if I'm wrong about that.

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