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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Greetings from South Carolina. I recently purchased a 2000 Insight MT. The battery was that 4 bars SOC but never showed charging or increased on its first trip. I reset the computer yesterday afternoon and it started charging. I revved it to 3K to let it fully charge during which the IMA and check engine light came on. Codes 73 and 78. Cell too hot and battery deterioration. It was 95f/35c outside with no breeze and the car was just sitting in the yard charging. I reset the computer again last night. Today I've driven it ~200mi and the battery is staying near a full charge but doesn't give any assist or show charging while coasting. No check engine or IMA lights have reappeared and the car is getting 65+ mpg. I hate to drop big bucks into the battery when the only time it showed fault codes was when charging under adverse conditions. Any ideas if it's truly a bad battery? Could it be something else? Thanks for any help.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
You mean after the reset and it was fully charged? No not really. I'll try that tomorrow and see if I get some assist. Thanks.
 

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Did the IMA light come back on and the codes return after the reset?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
No. I reset it night before last, put 200 miles on it yesterday running errands with lots of starting and stopping and no IMA or check engine light have returned.
 

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I'm a bit woozy at the moment, so maybe someone else has better answers, but usually the codes come right back if the battery is bad enough. So, the whole thing is a bit suspicious that you don't have assist and regen. Someone more conscious, been on anesthesia, will maybe come up with more. Struggling to just stay awake.;)
 
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Discussion Starter #7
Update: I just put another 60 miles on it. Battery pack is three bars from the top. No assist. No charge. No warning lights. Drives fine holding 60mpg in mixed driving. Ran hit hard in second gear to see if I could get some assist. No assist but I did find out that fuel cut is at 72 mph lol.
 

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^ They did come on initially (first post), but it'd be good to verify that they continue to work...

OP, do you know what kind of pack you have - OEM or aftermarket?... I'm with Jime, your symptoms seem strange, unusual, suspicious... If the 73 code is a 1449-73, that's for the cell-level PTC circuit. That code isn't supposed to trigger until something like 160F degrees, and that's really unusually hot. You don't get temps like that unless you have a really messed-up cell -- which would be more likely if you have an older aftermarket pack, or one of the off-brand ones (King Kong, Yabo, etc., which isn't likely)... But it's weird the code/codes didn't return yet you're not getting any IMA-action...

Maybe verify what pack you have. If it's an aftermarket I think I'd pull the pack out and inspect. Alternatively, first try the reset once again and see if anything different happens. Pull the 12V neg, I think that's the most thorough reset you can do... If you're not sure what kind of pack you have, though, I don't think I'd increase engine speed to charge it at high current, most I'd do is let the car handle it, like charge at idle speed if it wants to charge at all...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I'll check that. Yeah the second reset I didn't charge hard like the first time just let it charge up naturally. I don't doubt it was already 110f or more in the hatch area out in the sun when I was hard charging it the first time. Rookie mistake. Didn't think about the temp spike or I would have done it in the shade or later in the evening.
 

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^ hmm, it really shouldn't matter, charging when it's 110F. It's not 'best practice', but you still shouldn't get a temp increase from like 110F to 160F just from charging at relatively high rates for a short period, not if the cells are OK... Even if they're imbalanced the BCM should catch that and throttle the charge/stop it, whatever, before a code like that... So it seems like either the code was a fluke, you have an issue with your PTC circuit, you have a genuinely problematic cell or more, or there's some other flukey IMA/computer-like issue... Or maybe a combination. I'd lean toward the combination if you have an aftermarket pack, but a combo that's starts with a genuine cell problem.
 

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Is the clutch switch ok? If the car it thinks it's depressed you won't get assist or regen.

Is the mdm or battery fan running?

Do you have any codes now?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hey Peter I bet that's it. I'm so used to pushing the clutch in I didn't think anything of it but the other day I turned the key as I was pushing the clutch in and I felt the car move just a little. I thought well maybe I triggered the switch to allow starter activation but didn't disengage the clutch fully. I'll go try that right now. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
And Bull Dog the lamps are okay. I checked after I read your post. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Peter that's the problem and hopefully the only one. Starter pulled the car along and fired up in gear with the clutch pedal not depressed. I will become a contortionist and see if it needs adjustment or replacing when I wake up this afternoon (night shift) and report back. Thanks a million.
 

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Is the clutch switch ok? If the car it thinks it's depressed you won't get assist or regen.
Good call on the clutch switch. That's like 3 clutch switch issues in the last few days, gotta remember that one...

OP, bad clutch switch would explain your no-IMA-action issue. But, it still doesn't explain your initial trouble codes.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I got the clutch switch working, reset the computer, and started driving it. Took about 10 miles to get a full charge but even after 3 miles and 5 bars SOC it started giving assist and strong charging on deceleration. No check engine or IMA light and currently SOC is 3 bars from the top and everything was working as it should be on my 30 mile drive to work. Assist, regen, and even Auto stop. Thanks to everyone for your ideas and especially you Peter. I couldn't be happier with this little car. I live 35 min from work, 45min from my daughter, 2 hours from my gf, and 2 hours from my sailboat so I'm looking forward to enjoying this little car.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
And eq1 I hope that it was because of the conditions but who knows. I've reset it twice since then and no reoccurrence. Fingers crossed.
 

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An easy way to tell if the clutch switch is working is to drive at a steady rpm, say 2500 rpm in second gear and see if the up shift light comes on, if it doesn't then the clutch switch is not working properly.
 

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^ Good idea...

And eq1 I hope that it was because of the conditions but who knows. I've reset it twice since then and no reoccurrence. Fingers crossed.
That "73" code was an IMA light code, right?, not a CEL? Like I said earlier, there's almost zero chance that charging in hot weather (95F) like you did will increase a cell's temp to ~160F or higher and trigger a bona fide 1449-73 -- unless the cell's bad. So, "cross your fingers" that it was just some fluke - because if it was a hot cell you'd have a real problem...

I guess I'm concerned because the car's new to you, you have an unknown condition pack, and you've gotten a code that could spell trouble. Aftermarket packs have been known to crap-out in pretty ugly ways. But you don't even know if you have OEM or aftermarket... In any event, in theory you should see another trouble code if there's a real problem, probably low risk that something dangerous could happen without getting another code first...

Peter, if you're still around, what would happen if a PTC strip had an intermittent short, say due to some corrosion from a leaky cell, or maybe just the corrosion? Could that trigger a 'false' 1449-73 code - I don't l know, maybe the strip resistance goes up due to the corrosion or something? OP tries to charge his pack in pretty hot weather, a stick or more expands, etc. etc...
 
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