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@Chrisitian007:
I read your post about your issue several times and can't really understand what your issue is. Maybe try simplifying the steps of the problem instead of a long paragraph.

You never said what code you were getting on which car. Did you swap the junction board with the HV battery change out? Do you hear the pre-charge click on the CVT as well as the manual car?

I don't wish to work that hard at just trying to figure out what's actually happening.
 

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@Chrisitian007:
I read your post about your issue several times and can't really understand what your issue is. Maybe try simplifying the steps of the problem instead of a long paragraph.

You never said what code you were getting on which car. Did you swap the junction board with the HV battery change out? Do you hear the pre-charge click on the CVT as well as the manual car?

I don't wish to work that hard at just trying to figure out what's actually happening.
OK sorry bout that. I heard the pre charge click on both the cvt & 5speed. I was getting the p1445 on the cvt no matter what junction board battery combo I used. When I took the cvt battery/junction board in the 5 speed after the precharge clicks & IMA not engaging I tried restarting & all I heard was a tiny click that sounded like the contactor bypass. I recently changed that bypass & the big relay still nothing. One thing weird happens when I turn off the hv battery & disconnect the 12v and restart with the hv still off the car registers all the bars of the full HV battery.
 

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"When I took the cvt battery/junction board in the 5 speed after the precharge clicks & IMA not engaging I tried restarting & all I heard was a tiny click that sounded like the contactor bypass."
You said "I heard the pre charge click on both the cvt & 5 speed." Then you say "...after the precharge clicks & IMA not engaging..." Do you mean the precharge click stopped engaging along with the IMA not engaging, but then you say you heard a tiny click you're calling the contactor bypass.

Just an FYI...there is a solenoid that pulls in the pre-charge resistor and a main contactor relay that connects the HV battery to the car's IMA

Please take the time to be clear on your problem. You know what you have done and what happened. We weren't there. We are relying on you to relay the information correctly.

Maybe we'll try it another way. Please answer each question:

You have a CVT and a 5 speed.

1. The 5 speed was working fine with no battery issues or IMA light?

2. The CVT has a problem. What was the initial problem that caused you to swap HV battery/junction board from the 5 speed to the CVT....Was it an IMA with code (P1445) or something else?

3. Next you took the HV battery and junction board from the 5 speed and put it in the CVT and got an IMA with code (P1445) even after clearing the code ?

4. You also put the CVT battery/junction board into the 5 speed and heard at least a solenoid click, but later got an IMA light? How much later? Did it work ok for a while?

5. When did the solenoid clicks quit working and on which car?

6. When did the HV battery stop charging and on which car?

7. If you put either HV battery/junction board into the 5 speed at this point, does it work fine without an IMA light?

Just an FYI...disconnect the 12v battery ground and leave it disconnected for at least 15 seconds before reconnecting. If you reconnect to soon, the reset won't occur.

8. Do you have a way to read the codes and you are reading them each time? You're not just assuming it's the same code?

Please answer each question one at a time and number your answers.
 

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Christian did you by any chance accidentally switch the MCM from the CVT and the MT? The MCM is the silver computer box on the top of the battery furthest to the right (passenger side) of the car.
 

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Christian did you by any chance accidentally switch the MCM from the CVT and the MT? The MCM is the silver computer box on the top of the battery furthest to the right (passenger side) of the car.
No they're marked as MT for manual transmission. So it was easy to tell them apart and when I remove the batteries I leave them inside the car I took them from.
 

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You said "I heard the pre charge click on both the cvt & 5 speed." Then you say "...after the precharge clicks & IMA not engaging..." Do you mean the precharge click stopped engaging along with the IMA not engaging, but then you say you heard a tiny click you're calling the contactor bypass.

Just an FYI...there is a solenoid that pulls in the pre-charge resistor and a main contactor relay that connects the HV battery to the car's IMA

Please take the time to be clear on your problem. You know what you have done and what happened. We weren't there. We are relying on you to relay the information correctly.

Maybe we'll try it another way. Please answer each question:

You have a CVT and a 5 speed.

1. The 5 speed was working fine with no battery issues or IMA light?

2. The CVT has a problem. What was the initial problem that caused you to swap HV battery/junction board from the 5 speed to the CVT....Was it an IMA with code (P1445) or something else?

3. Next you took the HV battery and junction board from the 5 speed and put it in the CVT and got an IMA with code (P1445) even after clearing the code ?

4. You also put the CVT battery/junction board into the 5 speed and heard at least a solenoid click, but later got an IMA light? How much later? Did it work ok for a while?

5. When did the solenoid clicks quit working and on which car?

6. When did the HV battery stop charging and on which car?

7. If you put either HV battery/junction board into the 5 speed at this point, does it work fine without an IMA light?

Just an FYI...disconnect the 12v battery ground and leave it disconnected for at least 15 seconds before reconnecting. If you reconnect to soon, the reset won't occur.

8. Do you have a way to read the codes and you are reading them each time? You're not just assuming it's the same code?

Please answer each question one at a time and number your answers.
1. yes the 5 speed has no issues.
2. The cvt would attempt a recal but then would stop and give an ima light. Then I scanned it and found a p1445 dtc.
3. After swapping the 5 speed HV Batt/ junction board into the CVT i got the ima error light.
4. I heard a bunch of simultaneous clicks then ima error light without delay when I put the 5 speed hv battery/junction into the CVT.
5. Both times I heard a bunch of simultaneous clicks the cvt go straight to ima error, the 5 speed no problem.
6. Never a charging issue with the 5 speed but the cvt was having a battery issue before I parked it. That's why I took it out to re balance the pack and inspect the batteries.
7. Only one Hv batt/ junction board works in the 5 speed. I'm currently using it.
When I do a reset I leave it disconnected for a few minutes. Both hv battery and 12v Batt. And before I do a swap.
I use a generic scanner from auto zone. And the single click I hear is after I turn off the car sorry bout the mix up. Thanks again for trying to help me. I do appreciate it. One other thing I should mention is that I swapped the hv battery from cvt to be with the working junction board that I'm currently using in the 5speed. I did that to further balance the pack and see how it holds up. And does seem slightly weaker but it still manages to recharge adequately.
 

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@Christian007 :
3. You disconnected the 12v battery and swapped in a known working HV battery and junction board into the CVT and it also gave you an IMA error light. Do you know the code for this new IMA error with the replacement junction board?

Also, from the MCM is a Gry/red wire that goes to the bypass contactor that engages the pre-charge relay when the key is turned "ON". (MCM 32pin "A" connector pin 8). This same gray/red wire connects at the junction board via the light blue colored connector. There are two gray/red wires on the lower blue connector. Both go directly to the bypass pre-charge solenoid. One will be vehicle ground. The other is from the MCM. If you locate these two gray/red wires, you could try probing them with a multimeter and see if you're getting 12v to the bypass solenoid when the key is on (or check pin8 of the 32pin connector A on the MCM). The gray/red wires of the blue connector are closest to the driver seat and one of the gray/red wires is located in the corner of the connector. I'd ground one lead of the multimeter to the car chassis, and with the other lead, probe each of the two pins looking for 12v with the key ON. (The bypass resistor solenoid might normally disconnect a few seconds after key "on"...I don't know if this is the case or not, so just be aware if/when you're probing for voltages)

I would take a close look at the blue connector socket and pin connections for corrosion or anything unusual.

Also, make sure the pre-charge resistor spade terminals (big white ceramic power resistor below the main contactor) are still connected properly.

To reset the MCM: Turn ignition switch OFF. Momentarily remove #18 fuse (7.5A) from under the dash fuse/relay box for 10 seconds.

FYI...pin 21 of the MCM 32pin "A" connector is where the main contactor solenoid receives its energizing voltage (12v) from as well (Blu/Blk wire).
 

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One thing to check is that a previous owner hasn't cut the GRN/BLK wire heading to the DCDC converter. It's ok if the WHT/GRN wire is cut - in fact, I recommend it in all cars - but some people end up cutting the GRN/BLK wire, too, which allows the DCDC to always work, no matter how bad the IMA battery is... typically the MCM will turn the DCDC off if the pack is totally hosed... cutting the GRN/BLK wire prevents the DCDC from actually turning off.

The issue with cutting the GRN/BLK wire is the DCDC turns on immediately after you turn the key on... but since the main contactor hasn't engaged yet, this causes the pre-charge relay to never actually finish pre-charging the big HVDC capacitors in the PDU. This causes the MCM to (incorrectly) determine that the main contactor is broken.

...

Typically the actual root cause for a P1445 is a voltage mismatch between the:
-MCM'E' connector voltage (WHT/WHT & RED/RED wires on a dedicated connector plugged into the MCM), and the;
-PDU's VPIN voltage (ORG/ORG wire on MCM connector 'B').

Troubleshooting steps:
-Whenever the IMA switch is on, you should always read the actual pack voltage across the two MCM'E' leads. Let's call this V_MCMe.
-When you turn the key 'ON', you should see a rapidly rising 0:5 volt signal from VPIN to gnd_eng (any BRN/YEL wire in the IMA bay). The signal should eventually settle at V_MCMe/52.

If the VPIN signal initially rises, but then turns off, then the MCM is disconnecting either the pre-charge or main contactor.
 

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@Christian007 :
3. You disconnected the 12v battery and swapped in a known working HV battery and junction board into the CVT and it also gave you an IMA error light. Do you know the code for this new IMA error with the replacement junction board?

Also, from the MCM is a Gry/red wire that goes to the bypass contactor that engages the pre-charge relay when the key is turned "ON". (MCM 32pin "A" connector pin 8). This same gray/red wire connects at the junction board via the light blue colored connector. There are two gray/red wires on the lower blue connector. Both go directly to the bypass pre-charge solenoid. One will be vehicle ground. The other is from the MCM. If you locate these two gray/red wires, you could try probing them with a multimeter and see if you're getting 12v to the bypass solenoid when the key is on (or check pin8 of the 32pin connector A on the MCM). The gray/red wires of the blue connector are closest to the driver seat and one of the gray/red wires is located in the corner of the connector. I'd ground one lead of the multimeter to the car chassis, and with the other lead, probe each of the two pins looking for 12v with the key ON. (The bypass resistor solenoid might normally disconnect a few seconds after key "on"...I don't know if this is the case or not, so just be aware if/when you're probing for voltages)

I would take a close look at the blue connector socket and pin connections for corrosion or anything unusual.

Also, make sure the pre-charge resistor spade terminals (big white ceramic power resistor below the main contactor) are still connected properly.

To reset the MCM: Turn ignition switch OFF. Momentarily remove #18 fuse (7.5A) from under the dash fuse/relay box for 10 seconds.

FYI...pin 21 of the MCM 32pin "A" connector is where the main contactor solenoid receives its energizing voltage (12v) from as well (Blu/Blk wire).
Thank you very much this sounds like the info I need. I'll keep you posted. It might take me a while my back went out.
 

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Per your instructions to check for voltage on the gry/red wires.
1. Pin 8 on 32p connector had a jump in volts 100 to 61.
2. Pin 21 blu/blk @ MCM Connector key on 100v to 61v.
3. I couldnt reach the lower blu connector gry/red wires.
4. 31P connector- voltage between 8p & 10p was 12v , continuity was good gry/red wire.

Check #1 - Ignt OFF-check voltage between a8& a10 on MCM connector. Is there voltage momentarily? (Yes) but it has good continuity. So replace Mpi module & Voltage converter. Dc/Dc converter??


Check #2 Ground Pin A27 on MCM connector to body ground then check between Pin 6 from 8p connector dc/dc for continuity. There was continuity. It says repair open in high voltage line. What line ? Or replace dc converter.
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Check #3 Ignt OFF,HV BATT OFF, Check voltage between 7& 10 on 16P connector of junction board. Is there voltage momentarily? No there's a constant 12volts. Go to step 17. What's step 17?
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Check #4
BYPASS CONNECTOR CHECK.
Rset MCM,, turn off all accessories. Is dtc 62 indicated? Yes.
Ignition OFF, HV BATT OFF, wait 5 minutes, disconnect dc/ dc 8p connector. Then ON HV BATT, ON IGNTN. Is dtc 62 indicated ? YES. What is step 12. It also flashed dtc 37 I think . Anyone know what that is?

So it seems like I need to replace the dc/dc inverter or the mpi module? Idk WHATdo you think? Any questions just ask I wrote it all down.
 

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Per your instructions to check for voltage on the gry/red wires.
1. Pin 8 on 32p connector had a jump in volts 100 to 61.
2. Pin 21 blu/blk @ MCM Connector key on 100v to 61v.
Are you sure about these voltages? They are WAY too high, and suggest the HVDC bus is shorted out to the LVDC system. GRY/RED should be either 12 volts or 0 volts.

To test for an HVDC short, measure the resistance from the HVDC- (10 mm bolt closest to the IMA switch) to chassis ground. You should measure high impedance (above 300 kOhm).

I'm not going to respond to anything else in your post until we know what's going on with this... it could be dangerous to continue troubleshooting further elements.
 

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Are you sure about these voltages? They are WAY too high, and suggest the HVDC bus is shorted out to the LVDC system. GRY/RED should be either 12 volts or 0 volts.

To test for an HVDC short, measure the resistance from the HVDC- (10 mm bolt closest to the IMA switch) to chassis ground. You should measure high impedance (above 300 kOhm).

I'm not going to respond to anything else in your post until we know what's going on with this... it could be dangerous to continue troubleshooting further elements.
I thought possibly it might be a fuse issue and pulled the pack to check and that's when I realized somehow to check the lower left junction board connection to the pack and wasn't tightened down all the way. When I checked the pack first I never tightened it. So I tightened it down . But now I'm going to have to run the same tests again. Rookie mistake I'm sure.
 

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Are you sure about these voltages? They are WAY too high, and suggest the HVDC bus is shorted out to the LVDC system. GRY/RED should be either 12 volts or 0 volts.

To test for an HVDC short, measure the resistance from the HVDC- (10 mm bolt closest to the IMA switch) to chassis ground. You should measure high impedance (above 300 kOhm).

I'm not going to respond to anything else in your post until we know what's going on with this... it could be dangerous to continue troubleshooting further elements.
I don't know what Chrisitan007 is measuring. No way pin8 of 32pin 'A' of MCM is 100 or 61.... its output is battery voltage and he's measured battery voltage at the gray/red wire terminals that go to the bypass resistor solenoid/contactor. That's the same wire, so pin 8 of 32pin 'A' is outputting battery voltage, not 100 or 61 as he stated.

FYI - Pic 1 of the service manual excerpts covers step 1-8, Pic 2 covers 9-16, Pic 3 covers 17-18.

Christian007 - Maybe you shouldn't be inside the high voltage compartment that can seriously kill you.
 

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As long as he's taking proper safety precautions, the ultimate measurement values are irrelevant. Maybe it's a bad meter? Maybe it's improper measurement?
 

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I don't know what Chrisitan007 is measuring. No way pin8 of 32pin 'A' of MCM is 100 or 61.... its output is battery voltage and he's measured battery voltage at the gray/red wire terminals that go to the bypass resistor solenoid/contactor. That's the same wire, so pin 8 of 32pin 'A' is outputting battery voltage, not 100 or 61 as he stated.

FYI - Pic 1 of the service manual excerpts covers step 1-8, Pic 2 covers 9-16, Pic 3 covers 17-18.

Christian007 - Maybe you shouldn't be inside the high voltage compartment that can seriously kill you.
First off that's laughable . I'm not sticking my wet tongue in a pin connector. I have a voltmeter. And as I explained I found the bottom left terminal on the hv battery wasn't tight. I redid the test and came back with different values altogether. I list those when I'm done with everything. Thanks for your concern cubscout leader. I'm good.
 

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We're all on the same team here.
The electrocution risk is very real when digging in these packs. @davismltc is looking out for you. If you've never had the 'opportunity' to get shocked by HVDC, know that it's very different than HVAC... much harder to let go.
 

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We're all on the same team here.
The electrocution risk is very real when digging in these packs. @davismltc is looking out for you. If you've never had the 'opportunity' to get shocked by HVDC, know that it's very different than HVAC... much harder to let go.
Oh no problem man ! I do appreciate concerns for my safety.
And so I redid voltage checks.
Checked gry/rd with key on to chassis. Voltage spikes to7.52v then rests at .03. Continuity 0.00
Checked at blue connector to chassis key ON spikes to 7.35v. I did not get 12v resting @ the pin8(32p connector). And I had no room to check the 2 gry/rd wires on the bottom of blue connector.

Check blue/blk wire.
@ 32P connector -Volts at key ON to chassis spiked to .13 to .10 resting.
Voltage @ blue connector key ON to chassis 12.29Volts.
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Continuity .24v ?

Then I disconnect 18P & 32P connectors for continuity blue/blk wire 7.89. ?

Gry/red wire continuity 0.00)
Key ON voltage between gry/red & blk fast spiked at 5.92? Replace MPI?

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With a jumper wire to ground from no6 (connector 8p) my DMM connected TO MCM-connector- A27 green/blk wire pin and checked continuity. Which was 0.00.
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I hope I did right🧐
NEXT.
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Reset mcm & check codes.
IGN OFF,HV BATT OFF, volts @ junctions was 1.81v.
Hv batt ON, CHECK codes.
I got 62, 08,19,37, . My first time checking flash codes.
Step 12?
Next.
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I Disconnect 16P connector, Ign OFF ,HV BATT OFF check V between gry/rd& blk ,terminal 7&10. Is there momentary voltage ? No it has a resting voltage of 11.82volts. I changed the bcm & mcm just in case and got the same reading. HV batt160volts SOC while testing.
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Also there's 64volts at junctions when the car is running. Idk if that means anything. Did I miss anything? If so I'm all ears ready to listen and follow instructions. Thanks for all your help. I hope can this figured out. I have a different dctodc converter coming this week. Hope it helps. And Thanks Again😇.
 

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