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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anybody here with kids knows this automatic lock system is F-ing retarded! Or like how the hatch wont open when you unlock the car. So annoying. Why not a keyless entry that does all three functions, progressively as you press a single button.

THat all said, the auto lock thing is the worst!.. This is GEN 1 thing and it has to go.

Does anyone have some thoughtful suggestions? Otherwise I'll probably begin dissecting the keyless entry module AND report back.
 

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you can yank out the factory keyless unit and replace it with an aftermarket. Note, that you'll need a keyless until that supports type C (5 wire), or add two relays.
 

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The Insight is the first car I had with a key fob. I actually didn't start using it till this year. I really do hate the auto lock feature as well. For the hatch, you have to double tap the button. Just like most four doors, a single press only unlocks the driver's door. I really think they should have set the hatch up on a single press as well. It's actually on my to do list to change it but it's not much of a priority.
 

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The car doesn't auto-lock if you open any door within maybe 30 seconds. Seems like it would be pretty easy to add a circuit that detects when you press "unlock" on the fob, then waits a couple seconds, then spoofs "a door opened". We're talking at most a couple hours to fully implement this with an Arduino/555 and some relays/FETs.

Note that auto-lock only occurs after pressing the keyfob... if you don't do that, then the doors will never auto-lock.
 

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2000 Silverstone G1- 200k miles
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It's a feature to prevent the car from staying open if you accidentally press the button. As Mudder said, you open a door and it understands that it was intentional, so it doesn't relock the car. 30 seconds is plenty time to open a door. Idk a situation where this is an issue unless you unlock it from far away and it takes you 30 seconds to get to the car. Which just means don't unlock it so far away...

There are definitely worst features in cars tho lol. Especially with the tens (sometimes hundreds!) Of computers in new cars, they can do some really stupid stuff. For example, setting the maximum window roll down height so you can't roll the window all the way down. Setting a timer on the fuel door lock for 30 seconds after you put it in drive (and the car saying FUEL DOOR UNLOCKED, when you can't manually lock it yourself until the 30 second timer runs out and it locks it). Or setting error codes for "button pressed too long". Yes, I'm not joking.
 

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If you actually open the vehicle after unlocking it, be sure to open the door wide enough for the interior light to come on. If you unlock it, then just pop the door open wide enough to toss the keys on the seat, it'll auto-lock. Especially the passenger side. Took me a couple "oh craps" to figure that out. At home, luckily.

On my G1, the hatch would always open using the hatch's button if I unlocked the doors using the fob. Though... now that I think about it... I never actually tried to open the hatch without using first unlocking the doors... Maybe the hatch was never locked!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Thank you everyone for chiming in.

Auto locks are the worst in the sense that I will eventually lock myself out of the car, cracking a door(might swing back closed) or lowering a window every time I need to preform what is essentially a Chinese Fire Drill - is 100% unacceptable! 30sec is not enough time for a single parent to do anything(!)!!! Imagine being scatter brained, next buckle your 4 year old into his/her/it's car seat, close the door, walk to the otherside of the car taking 31 seconds somehow, hear a low rumble, reach into your pocket - only to realize the keys along with your coffee & cellphone & kid are now locked in a car, because no engineer at Honda had a child and thought this was a bad idea. Which might actually be a fair statement, think I've seen a few YT videos on Japan's alarming population decline.

TO THAT END, yesterday I just disconnected the entire system, cool, FUCCCCC*CK YOU AUTOMATIC LOCKS.

Do that and everything becomes manual. New brain conditioning and perfect, when it's unlocked,,,,, it stays unlocked. ONLY,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, now the hatch refuses to work as the hatch though manually unlockable requires electricity to operate the rubberized button. Soooooooo this(disconnecting) option, is not a livable solution.

Honestly, it(disconnecting) was mostly an ultra basic experiment and it succeeded in the sense that the alarm didn't sound or car stopped functioning.

It has now been plugged back in(need my hatch) but I hold out promise that a solution will present itself. Likely today I will figure out the live wires and begin to pull pins from auto lock till(hopefully) it FUC*S OFF!
 

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Pro tip: Stash your 'valet' key behind your front license plate, or somewhere under the car. That way if you're ever locked out you can easily get back in without calling a locksmith.
 

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buckle your 4 year old into his/her/it's car seat
Not trying to cast any shade, but IMO insight isn't really meant to have a kid in it. If it's your only car, fine, but I strongly encourage you to get a modern, safe car that's designed to have car seats in it.

only to realize the keys along with your coffee & cellphone & kid are now locked in a car, because no engineer at Honda had a child and thought this was a bad idea.
I keep my key fob in my pants pocket... key stays in the accessory tray near the steering wheel.

now the hatch refuses to work as the hatch though manually unlockable requires electricity to operate the rubberized button. Soooooooo this(disconnecting) option, is not a livable solution.
Agreed... car gets much less useful without the hatch.

Honestly, it(disconnecting) was mostly an ultra basic experiment and it succeeded in the sense that the alarm didn't sound or car stopped functioning.
Proposed next step: If you have the stock Keyless Door Lock (KDL) unit, cut the YEL/GRN wire (at the KDL). That should prevent the KDL from being able to lock or unlock (only) the driver's door. The passenger and hatch doors should still lock/unlock as normal.

It has now been plugged back in(need my hatch) but I hold out promise that a solution will present itself. Likely today I will figure out the live wires and begin to pull pins from auto lock till(hopefully) it FUC*S OFF!
I recommend looking at page 130-1 in the schematic. I host the entire schematic on github. After opening that link, click the "download" button and you'll get the PDF I mentioned. Page "130-1" is actually page 141.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thank you Mudder. My set of service manuals came in the mail yesterday. :D I scoured them and wasn't immediately presented with a solution. Infact, the only thing I came up with was shorting the KDL module OR replacing it with an aftermarket one? But shorting it, for that I am not smart enough yet. Yellow/Green wire, I will look at that if I remember today, TY.

The open/closed door sensor stands out like a soar thumb, but if I made it think the door was open when it's not,,, it'd never remotely lock which DOES kill the auto lock but....

I like your idea about keeping the remote separate, I don't know that I can put that into practice soon enough.

Kid car? Maybe not, but it's what I got and doubt that will change in the next 6month-6years, too much commuting - hence why I bought it.

Only came with one key, sure as shi* it does indeed need a valet key, that'd be groovey.

But between the 30sec lock and the HUGE hassle of navigating the hatch's round-robin button setup, there will come a day when I Hulk out and beat my way into the car. It's almost like the hatch, exclusively takes way more effort to unlock. Maybe my fob is broken, but replacing that does NOT solve the 30sec BS.
 

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Pro tip: Stash your 'valet' key behind your front license plate, or somewhere under the car. That way if you're ever locked out you can easily get back in without calling a locksmith.
You can also copy the main key for really cheap. It'll open all the doors but won't run the car. I only have the valet key and have a copy for the glovebox and tailgate. The valet key was made thicker on purpose so it wouldn't fit into the thin keyhole, but you can use it to make a "main" key.
 

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^ yes OP provided updates here,
Auto lock door
and here.
Finally!!
@artisanmetallworks I'm not a moderator just someone who was interested in your original thread(this one). When you keep posting on multiple threads it makes it hard to keep up. Also, when you post on really old threads, you're not likely to get responses from the original members involved. I second what Mudder said here.
I recommend continuing this conversation in the other thread... note that I've (probably) answered your question in regards to which wire to cut in that thread.
I see you are new here, welcome to Insight Central.
BTW
Anybody an electrical engineer????
This thread already had the attention of at least one electrical engineer I know of on IC.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
My bad. Got the spare key, if I drive somewhere where I know I will be getting in and out lots I don't lock the car, and I assume I will be getting an aftermarket alarm system as the autolock still trips me up and sucks butt. Seems like it even tries locking the car even when the door is open sometimes...

I looked at all the electrical schematics and didn't immediately see a solution, but should an electrical engineer see one than great(!) lets do it!

I think I have posted in multiple places because of the shotgun effect(not real), attack with as wide a spread as possible, hoping something solves the problem. Though it must piss some off, that was not my intent.
Font Material property Parallel Pattern Engineering
Music Font Parallel Rectangle Handwriting
 

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What was the result of my previous recommendation:
Proposed next step: If you have the stock Keyless Door Lock (KDL) unit, cut the YEL/GRN wire (at the KDL). That should prevent the KDL from being able to lock or unlock (only) the driver's door. The passenger and hatch doors should still lock/unlock as normal.
 

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My first Insight was bad about this. When I opened up the door panel I found the two rods were crossed and rubbing on each other. I changed it so they were parallel and everything was normal.
Sam
 

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You didn't piss me off, I'm sorry if it came across that way. My previous post was inspired by humor not anger. I thought it was quite funny when you asked if there were any electrical engineers.
 

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Sorry if I misled you but I'm not an EE. I was an ABCDF student who barely graduated high school. I was top of my class in auto shop though.

Unfortunately my key remote died shortly after you started this thread. I couldn't remember if I received one or two remotes with the car. I have since given up on looking for it(since it may not exist anyway lol).

I am now debating between buying a replacement remote or replacing the whole system with an aftermarket one. It would be nice to have one of the new systems that unlocks the car when you get close to it. A remote start button would be nice also.

On the other hand, the factory system has a 22-year track record of reliability. I've seen post about key remotes breaking but never the KDL unit itself.

Do that and everything becomes manual. New brain conditioning and perfect, when it's unlocked,,,,, it stays unlocked
It has now been plugged back in(need my hatch) but I hold out promise that a solution will present itself
It seems like mudders solution to cut the YEL/GRN wire fits both of these criteria. Is there any reason that wouldn't work for you?


The valet key was made thicker on purpose so it wouldn't fit into the thin keyhole, but you can use it to make a "main" key
Never thought of that one myself, thanks for the info Phantom Z3!
 
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