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Check the search box for alternate EGR valves there are some from other models (accord 4) that will work and cost about $20.
I wanted to point out that $20 EGR valves are hit and miss. I researched this question and also built an EGR valve tester to understand how they work. I purchased an inexpensive valve brand new to see how it would perform. The new valve caused "herky-jerky" which I did not experience with my old EGR valve. The old EGR valve, while on the way out, was not so bad as to cause this. We tore the new valve apart at the dinner table during the recent Insight fest in Ohio. The new valve had a different sensing mechanism than the old which held promise for longevity compared to the potentiometer-based sensor in the OEM valve, but the jerkiness it caused put it to rest. It may be a control loop issue (well, obviously, it is a control loop issue of some kind.)
 

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What I have done:
1>changed plugs and coils....
Today's results: I replaced the AC Delco 21 spark plugs with Autolite XP5325 Iridium XP"s. At the same time I exchanged the coils that are only 6 months old with one's out of my 2003 which has about 150k on it. Took it for a test drive and Bingo, smooth as ever. No more lurching!! So then because I needed to know I put my 6 month old coils back on and still smooth.

Lessons learned:
1>start out simple and replace plugs....
I'm curious, OP, in your first post you said you changed the plugs (and a lot of other things), then you end up changing the plugs again and the problem is gone. Neither plugs you use are OEM, so what is it about the plugs that caused the problem? Did you check the gaps, for example, and were they correct? Are they visibly different? Maybe you can post side-by-side image?
 

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Discussion Starter #23
In my original post I wasn't clear enough because I had written plugs off the list. What I should have said was that I had replaced the coils about 9 months ago when one started to get flaky. The plugs I changed about 6 months ago while doing some other routine maintenance so they probably have about 5k on them. One had a little more carbon on it than the other two but not bad enough to be concerned about. Gap's averaged about .045". I will see if they are still in my shop and take a picture later today. At least I think I can pin point it to an ignition issue. Running great again!
 

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OK, so you had changed the plugs, though, 6 months earlier. The gaps were fine and they weren't obviously bad. That's what's important. Because now we can at least be a little more certain that the plug design, rather than the condition, would be the culprit... Please do take a pic if you have the time...
 

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^ I guess pictures of the old plugs alone isn't quite what we needed - we'd need a side by side of the old vs. new. And of course, you've got the new in the car, so unless you took a pict before you installed, looks like we're out of luck. But thanks for doing that... In general I don't see anything that's much different from OEM plugs - like they're not drastically shorter or anything like that.

Here's a pict of an OEM plug next to a similar though non-indexed NGK alternative. Besides no indexing, the alternative has a slightly shorter reach than the OEM... Hard to tell from this pict. Figured I'd post this here anyway for reference-sake.
 
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