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Discussion Starter · #121 ·
Just saw this post. I want to note my method also eliminates the small bolt interlock on the junction board at the IPU switch.
I found a way to get the interlock bolt back if you want it. Just center punch each of the spot welds on the cover & bolt interlock fixture and drill them out. You can then shift the inter fixture to the left and use pop rivets to reattach it. I haven't bothered;)
 

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...I found that when on the highway using the AC 100% my mileage suffers 10-12%.
FWIW... And if the heat's not too intolerable, I found driving with the windows all the way down to hardly dent my mileage, even at highway speeds. And if it did, it certainly wasn't 10-12%. But that doesn't really work in stop-and-go traffic...
 
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Yes, situation A, using clutch switch to reduce hit to MPGs from background charging.
 

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Discussion Starter · #124 ·
I also fixed my A/C recently, so I've been using that and wow, it really gives a hit to the MPGs
@Natalya I found that when on the highway using the AC 100% my mileage suffers 10-12%.
I just made a rather long road trip for the meet in 100F weather and discovered something that should have been obvious. If you can run the temperature control a bit higher at something like 75F, the A/C won't cycle nearly as much and you will probably still be comfortable - I was.
 
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I found it was interesting to set the OBD2C&C to monitor the AC compressor in the manual mode with different temperature settings and in the automatic mode with different temperature settings. Quite interesting to see that one comes on less than the other, I forgot which but think it's manual AC.
 

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I just tend to time my ac usage. If at all possible I use it on flat or downhill land and turn it off uphill. Ideally you'd be in rolling terrain and just use it downhill.
 

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So you guys aren't seeing even 100 amps at full throttle? Are you not voltage hacked? My nimh typically will pull 110 or 120 but it's also at a significantly lower voltage than your pack since it gets drawn down a lot more.
 
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