[Balto]

Next time I visit the garage, I’ll try to remember for ya.

Thanks!

 

[julianachos]

Here you go @Balto:

 

[Balto]

Here you go @Balto:

That's actually not bad. Honda spec for brand new is 7.2-8.3mm.

 

[julianachos]

Maybe I'm used to seeing tons of meat on new ones.

On my Fit, the hub always breaks whereas the actual disc itself looks new.

 

[Joule]

Keep it for a spare.

 

[julianachos]

It's going in the trash unless anyone wants it within the next three weeks. I'm trying to be mindful on space at the moment.

 

[eprom]

That's actually not bad. Honda spec for brand new is 7.2-8.3mm.

In my service manual 2000 the thickness spec is 8.3 to 9mm for a new part and the service limit is 6mm
These spec have been changed in the next version of service manual?
By the way I have a new EXPEDY clutch disk in hand and it measures 8.3mm

 

[Balto]

In my service manual 2000 the thickness spec is 8.3 to 9mm for a new part and the service limit is 6mm
These spec have been changed in the next version of service manual?
By the way I have a new EXPEDY clutch disk in hand and it measures 8.3mm

What version do you have? I was speaking of memory so I might be incorrect.

I have 00-06 manuals.

 

[eprom]

I have 00 manuals

 

[julianachos]

Scott sent me these last week. Now we wait.

To quote Scott, the rebuild process involves the following:

• Clean and inspect everything once disassembled.
• Replace all bearings, friction dampers, and seals.
• Remove the clocking tabs on the first and second gear synchronizers. This eliminates the potential downshift grind that occurs with manual Insights.
• Inspect shift forks for wear, specifically in the area where the detent balls ride. In most cases, Scott TIG welds the worn areas to reshape them which helps hold things in gear better.

While I am waiting, I decided to rip out the battery to do my 40% hack. Of course, I couldn't quickly get to the 100 amp fuse with the pack in the car.

Comparison of the 100 amp and larger 150 amp fuse:

After some trimming, it is in.

This is where I got frustrated a little. My less powerful soldering iron's tip broke and made things a little difficult. I also cannot remember the last time I soldered on a board. Low key want to redo this but I don't have desoldering braid on hand.

Mind the flux...

The vibe:

Managed to not goof this part up:

Labeled the BCM and MCM so whoever decides to steal my car will know they struck gold.

 

[PeteT]

The covers were in the car when I bought it. They appear to be some generic tartan seat covers.

Funny thing about those covers: In the listing, they weren't shown in the photos, but when I was picked up at the airport I immediately loved them.

Generic? Oh, come on! They were custom made by Meg (co-owner) in about 2006 when the seats were starting to show wear.

 

[julianachos]

Sorry Pete, didn’t know Meg made them!

 

[julianachos]

The transmission arrived from Scott's, so time to get down to business.

New clutch, rear trans mount, and the ever so slightly wider axles are also part of this huge job today.

New clutch is showing 8.5mm thickness.

There was some confusion earlier in this thread about what was considered okay. First edition 2000-2004 manual, by the way.

Took photos of the difference between the new Exedy and a 176k original mile clutch. Note the center hub spline hole.

In the new pressure plate and disk goes...

After doing my Fit's clutch numerous times and other clutch jobs on my previous Hondas, the trans lined up in under a minute.

Cleaned the starter since it was covered in oil.

Also purchased new OEM struts and installed my Scott front springs.

Scott also sold me OEM tie rod end boots since mine were torn. The part number for that is 53546-SH0-A01.

So glad I bought the pieces I did...

What I had bought and thought was necessary. I bought two of each of the following:

• 51402-S3Y-003 - Rubber, FR. Spring Mounting
• 51684-S3Y-003 - Mount, FR. Dust Cover (LOWER)
• 51688-S3Y-003 - Seat, Spring (UPPER)
• 51726-S2G-004 - Bearing, Shock Absorber Mounting
• 51727-S3Y-003 - Plate, Shock Absorber Bearing
• 51728-SD5-004 - Plate, Thrust
• 51920-S3Y-013 - Rubber, FR. Fork Mounting
• 90213-SJ6-004 - Nut, Self-Lock (12MM) (NYLON) (one of my nuts went flying and was lost until the very end of the job. I was glad I had bought these otherwise I would've spent an unnecessary amount of time looking for one god damn nut..)

And of course:

• 51605-S3Y-J03 - Shock Absorber Unit, R. FR.
• 51606-S3Y-J03 - Shock Absorber Unit, L. FR.

Also got these bump stops from Scott a while back too. I was surprised mine wasn't as flat as I thought. Still worth replacing for sure. Part number is 51722-S3Y-J02

All in all, it was worth it. Did one test drive to verify all the Is are dotted and Ts are crossed. Going in for an alignment on Tuesday.

 

[Balto]

Amazing work brother. Good job! Having those tie rod ends and new front shocks must be so nice compared to the old stuff. Scotts front springs really tie everything together.

 

[julianachos]

Thanks, Balto! From the test drive, it feels like a completely different car.

I need to get new end links for it though.

 

[julianachos]

I got the windshield replaced today. It was something on my to-do list since November's incident.

Like any Insight member, this had to happen before I handed over the car to the shop...

Managed to only break one tab. Unsure if it was on its way out or if I did something to break it, but I felt only one was pretty damn good. The windshield was replaced once before...

Much better although I miss the twelve years' worth of Alaska State Parks stickers on an OE Honda-supplied windshield... I managed to save a few of them.

Traded places with the Miata in the garage so I can work while having air conditioning...

Had to pull the cowl out for starters since the windshield place managed to not put it on correctly. I've gotten four windshields for my cars before and there was always some unwanted shenanigans involving the cowl...

As I mentioned before, the windshield was replaced once in the past. Unsure if these broken pieces were from the recent installer or not, but either way I was annoyed - only because I had to go back out and get J-B Weld since I didn't have any...

I've managed to find all of the broken pieces (there were three total) so I couldn't complain too much. Spoiler alert: the cowl isn't as flush as I'd like... Might have to get a new one if I get bothered by it.

While I waited for the J-B Weld to sort of cure for handling, I went and did some cleaning. Just cleaned what I felt like reaching instead of getting everything possible.

Now that the wiper cowl area was done, I got to business and cleaned the areas under the trim.

Addressed the last bit of cracked seam sealer I had. This occurred on both sides.

Gathered my clips. Scott recommended in a post somewhere for one set and immediately bought two boxes of them here. Also managed to find the dreaded weird clip (91511-S3Y-003) on Amazon. I've also put Hondabond around the holes before inserting the clips in place.

Here's to hoping I did everything right and the A-pillar pieces won't fly off. Ironically, the passenger side which had all of its tabs gave me grief with one as it went over the metal clips. Honestly, as long as I don't experience hurricane-force winds, I don't see it coming off. Maybe one day I'll circle back to it.

 

[julianachos]

Finally got around to doing something I've been meaning to do for quite some time: tint. I've gone with 3M's Crystalline 50% on the liftgate and 70% on the other windows, including the windshield.

The film has 3M's logo in random places. After the one-week period of not messing with it, I'll take some rubbing alcohol to it.

I got it done yesterday and have driven at least 450 miles since then. Yesterday's temps were pretty high during the day at over 100°F and it did damn well. Sure the inside got a little warm while the car was parked for 45 minutes in direct sunlight, but on the plus side, the interior cooled down real quick once I ran the A/C and it doesn't have to work as hard while I'm driving. Sitting for 20 minutes or less and it still felt cool. I also don't have a burning sensation on my arm anymore which was my biggest gripe. The glare is also not as offensive anymore.

I stuck with the 70/50% and Crystalline due to the fact that I wanted heat rejection, but to retain an almost factory appearance. There's a blue-ish tint to the 70% which I quite like. The only downside I can think of is from the outside in direct sunlight, there's a slight haze. I don't notice it from the inside, so it doesn't bug me.

The tint guy talked me into doing 50% for the liftgate since it's basically flat and since that's where I get a lot of the heat, it made more sense to make this one a tad darker. It matches the little window, so I didn't mind it.

Now to do some little things before the meet next month.

 

[*sean*]

Managed to only break one tab.

Nice. I had one that had most of the tabs broken off by a previous window installer and held on with windshield adhesive which is terrible for this - we hear about these departing from time to time as a result. I ended up plastic-welding new tabs on using Duplo blocks as the source material dremeled into the shape of the missing tabs, then melted and mixed with the existing plastic to make an integral bond. If I had not melted and mixed both base material and tab material, the bond would have been on the surface only and would have promptly failed.

 

[julianachos]

I wouldn't mind picking up some cheap spare panels to do so.

I also need to learn how to plastic weld since I've never done it before.

 

[Joule]

How’d the tint work out?