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Discussion Starter #61
Rainsux/Sam, unfortunately, a Costco is an hour or more away from me.

eq1, I might have to do this. So if I unhook the BCM harness, this should keep the IMA system from getting damaged, correct?

Here is image for easy viewing if your internet is goofy like mine


This appears to be a very straight forward and direct way of doing a minor drain without the extra heat and "watch" effort a heavier discharge MIGHT need.

I am going to try and drive to work tomorrow with as little assist as possible, and see how the car performs. Traffic is lighter than normal because of current circumstances in the world.

My car has now been through a gridcharge cycle from approx 4pm yesterday til today approx 2pm. I let the car sit with grid charger off and disconnected for approx an hour, and during this sitting period, I had the 7.5 and 15amp fuses for IMA pulled, and if I recall correctly, a 30amp big fuse for ACC/backup pulled as well.

I started the car, and idled with everything off (lights/radio/climate) until the SoC built to full, then I took the car on a gentle drive, running my errands on my day off. Car seemed to get into electric assist far easier, seemed to not want to charge nearly as often, but overall, behaved and performed much smoother.

I think I will try and make some progress on this later this week. If I can time the discharge cycle to allow me to start the grid charging process friday night, that would work best, as than should mean I could wake up to a healthier battery
 

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So if I unhook the BCM harness, this should keep the IMA system from getting damaged, correct?.... This appears to be a very straight forward and direct way of doing a minor drain without the extra heat and "watch" effort a heavier discharge MIGHT need.
You need to pull 'connector C', obviously, in order to insert the shorts. And you should pull the connector from the back of the MCM (2 wires on same harness, can't miss it). But I'm not sure if you need to pull anything else, I don't think you do. Any other removals are simply about ensuring proper gas-only functionality...

Turn the pack switch off, pull those two connectors, insert your first set of 5 shorts, every other tap, try the car. Does it still work?

If you need me to try this out and verify I might have time to do that tomorrow. Let me know. But I don't think there's a risk to the car itself. I think the worse that can happen (besides you mucking about, touching the wrong things and shocking yourself to death) is you'll get a 12V battery and brake warning light and you'll need to pull the two connectors from the front of the BCM as well...

Ah heck, I actually have 5 tap shorts in place as we speak, so I'll go out and try it, verify what needs to be pulled...

[10 minutes later...]
I needed to pull the connector from the front left of the BCM, the one with the most wires, in order to get 12V battery charging. Keep in mind that when you go gas-only like this, 12V charging will be disabled for a short time span every time engine speed goes above about 4000 RPM.

The discharge load on each tap is only about 40mA at 15V (about 380Ω). If you don't try to run your pack down as far as you can prior to tap shorts, it would take a LONG time to discharge enough. If your pack were say charged to 'full bars', which I'd guess would be about 2000mAh, seemings how you have a questionable pack, it'd take a minimum of 2000mAh/40mA = 50 hours to get your first set of 5 taps close to being discharged 'enough'... My guess is it will still take you quite a while, as you probably have an imbalanced pack, so however much you're able to discharge your pack just by driving would still leave most of the cells charged 'a lot'... hmm, I think I'd plan on a minimum of 48 hours per set of 5 taps, regardless of how much you discharge by driving. So two days per set of 5, then a good, full grid charge.

Ideally you'd be checking tap voltages from time to time, you'd try to get each down to no higher than 12V and as low as 2.4V, and you'd let that determine when enough is enough. You'd also try to treat each set of 5 the same, so if you go for 48 hours on the first set, go for 48 hours on the second. BUT, since you're working with what's likely a pretty cruddy pack, it's kind of like polishing a turd at this point. Just do whatever you can and see how it goes, take it from there...
 

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Discussion Starter #63
I have my civic back from my brother, so I am going to dive into discharging, now that I do not NEED the insight on the road.

I think I am going to wire up those 4x 50watt resistors, and run the main pack down from morning to night on saturday, see where its at. If its under 50-60v total pack voltage, Ill let it coast overnight with the first set of taps, and just make it a point to wake up early and check it.

Id like to get the first discharge cycle done this weekend so I can explore the immediate effects next week. If the civic keeps behaving (01-05 civics do not like their ecu's or ELD's very much) I will commence the advised 2-3 dis//charge cycles.
 

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Discussion Starter #64
Ordered a bench power supply. Cheap little chinese device, but watched a few youtube reviews and saw how it re-acted to both intentional and accidental abuse, how accurate the amperage and voltage control was, and decided it would be acceptable.

Bought 24 battery sticks, so I should now be able to make one near perfect battery pack, and any leftovers will be tested.

Leftover sticks for now will simply act as a battery relocation, and make a decent sized series/parallel pack to make room underhood for the future heartbeat this car will have.

Power supply is the LW3010D. Chincy, but works for my purposes, and other projects.

Got my new tires for the Insight rims, they are the Federal's, and feel decent in person. Getting them balanced today, I didnt find any alloy balance weights in 0.25 and 0.5 oz size. Pay attention when installing tires, and you will almost never need more than half an ounce while balancing! Most manufacturers have yellow and red dots to symbolize optimal positions based on valve location and whether or not you are dealing with the various TPMS stuff.

I will most likely open a new thread when dealing directly with the battery sticks and pack stuff. But I try to keep any and all info of my car in one thread, it helps me for future lookbacks.
 

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Discussion Starter #65
Did some maintenance and some updates on power supply.

Firstly, if you need spark plugs, a good alternative is NGK plugs from a 2014 Hyundai Genisis R spec 2.0 liter turbo model. Autozone shelf stock number is 6481. Plug is NGK Laser Iridium ILFR6B.

Did valve lash adjustment. Immediate improvement in ticking reduction, thanks to removing the grand canyon of the intake side, and more power now that half the exhaust valves actually shut (3 were held partially open, lash was too tight).

In spots where I could cruise in 3rd gear around 2300-2500 rpm and get 55-75mpg, it is now far more steady at 80-100mpg. I attribute most of the MPG improvement to the valve lash, but I did have 2 spark plugs that were loose, and able to be turned out by hand on extension with grip. Not cool!

Found out the ignition coils were those cheap ones from ebay with the red bottom boots, so those of you warry of buying from ebay, well, these look VERY old (not rusty like original all black honda coils I see on posts), yet they work just fine. While they have a sticker on them saying "made in Japan", I suggest taking that with a grian of salt. These are definitely cheaply made, BUT they are working just fine.

Used the new power supply to start charging the sticks I recently bought. If the current and voltage knobs are turned all the way down, the power supply simply indicates voltage of any battery connected to it. I was starting with sticks that were empty or resistor-discharged, so I was worried about damage. I started with a bus bar setup to allow charging 8 sticks at once, used the knobs to get approx 5volts at 8 amps, and let it sit. Overdid it on voltage knob, and as the sticks charged up, the amperage dropped a bit, and voltage raised to 6.2 volts or so after a few hours. Good! These sticks are taking a charge!

Charged them up to 8.9 volts, power supply ended up bleeding off most of the leftover 4amp charging status I was trying to force, and the stricks were getting warm (not hot!). I disconnected, let sit overnight, and sticks stayed above 8v.

This process will take all week, but I think I will end up with one full IMA pack of healthy sticks, and several spares that may make it here for sale. If I cannot make another full pack, I am going to remove my 12v battery, and simply use a couple pairs of the sticks as a relocated replacement. long cylinders are easier to hide against the rear deck edge, and can be protected very easily with a couple PVC piping tubes painted to match the interior color scheme. Plus this would make it super easy to add my speaker and subwoofer amps when I finally get around to the full stereo setup I want.

Lemme know any questions you guys have, I will try to answer them. Overall, this power supply was a worthwhile investment. I already have used it to test fuel injectors, setup wiring, set voltage and max current, wired a momentary switch, and was able to pulse and clean a set of injectors for my other car.
 
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